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Many thanks Gianni... After unloading and stacking the 500 bricks I'm getting a little intimidated knowing I am going to have to cut the majority of them a couple of times..and lay them...but I think your correct with the honey part..
I was milling over in my head the cuts and your comments are becoming clearer and clearer about the tapers...I was thinking to lay it out in sketchup, it looks like it will give you angles and dimensions to start from? Then maybe cutting a wood brick template per chain w/ taper dimensions an see how it lays out? I guess if each brick side was off by a degree or two it would get hidden in the mortar?
The more I think about it, using a wood template for the curve vs an indispensible tool would save quite a bit of time too provided I wasn't searching for a hemisperical dome...which I'm not. Your picture of the old school oven is my goal!
The biggest value I got from my Sketchup drawings was to visualize my plan dimensions and understand the material size limitations. If something in my plan didn't fit, it was easier (and cheaper) to make the adjustment on the screen than in real life. The application might be able to reveal angles or dimensions that could be translated into workable jigs, templates, etc., but I wasn't willing (or smart enough) to take it that far. Just know that as you build, learn to trust your eye and it won't let you down.
I specifically wanted a flatter dome and flatter entry arches and found it was easy to sketch each profile on a piece of paper and transfer to a wood dome template or arch form. You can build whatever you want. I wouldn't spend any time building a wood model for bevels and tapers because as soon as you get a few bricks to fit together correctly you will be able to repeat the dimensions by eye. As the dome progresses upwards and you follow your dome template, the bevel angles become more acute but the process to repeat each brick remains the same. The best part is that the process to bevel a 1"-thick brick should be easier than a full-size firebrick.
Lastly, the bond pattern of an oven like yours doesn't have to be perfectly centered, in fact I think a random bond pattern (like the ancient dome) looks awesome and is easier to build. This should make it easier to complete your dome earlier.
I'm a little confused, the brick you bought from Pacific Clay, are they standard bricks, and then you cut them in half? Or, did they come as splits?
If they are splits from Pacific, do they also have standard size bricks in seconds? Lake Elsinore is not to far for me, and I'm (being 72 and on SS) am really on a budget with a fixed income. I'm trying to get anything I can with the intention of recycling to build my oven.
Thanks for the info, Gary
"You can tell a dutchman, but you can't tell him much"
Gary,
My bricks were standard full-size firebricks. I found them in the PC seconds area. I am unaware if there are any firing (durability) issues, only the irregular shape.
John
Gary... I believe the bricks cnicholson got were splits from the factory, discounted for minor color defects. As others have commented, they would be perfect. Since they're splits, they will take a little longer to build up; but look at the bright side... each brick is only half the weight, so less to worry about with stiff elbows (that was a real problem for me after a while).
If you're near there and looking to build an oven, I'd say jump at the chance. Hell, I've already built my oven and was still doing mental calculations for half a second about what it that kind of deal on bricks would mean!
For the hearth, use them flat with as many layers as you think you will want for thermal mass. Three layers will give you 3 inches which would be typical for an oven this size. I suggest you do not mortar these hearth layers together.
To answer your question, albeit a few days later, the splits are 1/2 the thickness of a standard brick so 1 1/4" thick vs. 2 1/2". You still need to cut them in half lengthwise for the dome. The dome pic Gianni posted earlier should give you an idea of how they should lay up... While I was there they actually wheeled over a half pallet of full size bricks (also .25 ea), unfortunately they had drying cracks in them...didn't really want to take a chance on those. The yard is actually HUGE (and it's ALL overstock/discontinued/seconds) so you are looking for any other brick type products its a fantastic resource.
I haven't started yet but I think I am only going to use 2 layers in the floor as with the bricks I have it would give me a total thickness of 2 1/2" which seems to be the consensus of the perfect floor thermal mass. I'm torn on mortaring them together...I'll give a post if I get some earth shattering news with regard to that...
Also, after cutting several red clay bricks for my patio recently I think the posts related to the workability of the splits vs. full size have quite a bit of merit. I'm using an MK 101 saw (the contractor version, not Lowe's) and it took about 30 sec to cut each brick in half and it would seem to bog down toward the end of the cut. My theory is that the water/clay filling the length of the cut put stress on the motor but I think the entire process of cutting, laying, modifying etc with the splits will be much easier.
To translate, I think it MAY take a little bit more time to lay it up but I think to get a good looking dome with splits will take less time figuring, templating, etc than the full size so it may be a wash on time...and that's all you really care about when you keep dreaming of wood fired pizzas... it doesn't hurt that the bricks were 1/5 the cost of retail.
Good luck and I'll get some pics up of my build when I REALLY get started.
You still need to cut them in half lengthwise for the dome.
I think you mean cut them in half crosswise, leaving an inward exposed face of 4.5".
I'm using an MK 101 saw (the contractor version, not Lowe's) and it took about 30 sec to cut each brick in half and it would seem to bog down toward the end of the cut
When my HF blade guard pivot pin snapped I borrowed the same MK101 contractor wet saw from my brother. I have never had a hiccup with this saw cutting full-size bricks, much less bogging down or placing stress on the motor. I think its your blade. If have several new MK blades (continuous rim) sitting in the garage I'd be willing to let go of for $50ea if you're interested.
Good catch Gianni...cutting lengthwise would make one funky looking mess... Yeah...ya know...I bought the saw off of craigslist for $200 and it was apparently WELL used...I think I may try changing the brushes on the motor and see where that gets me...otherwise I'll just power through the project and then put it back on craigslist with the disclaimer and see what happens...I put a new MK Hot Dog blade on it and it got better...but not perfect...
Last edited by cnicholson; 10-24-2011, 04:04 PM.
Reason: forgot
Alrighty everyone...thanks you for the replies as it keeps the dream alive! Now that I have some help, I'm back at it! I want to keep a log of my build and I figure the best way to do it (as it forces me to) is to do it here. And the fact that I can draw on hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of hours of experience doesn't hurt. Hopefully I can help someone along with their build as well in my journey, as it has been done so many times for me in reading this forum. I'm not sure if it's possible to move this thread to a more appropriate forum, keep it here or just start a new thread? Thanks again for all the help fellow pompeiians..
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