Entry/landing brick to use?

[Tscarborough]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

Standard mortar joint for brick is 3/8". In an arch that would be the inside joint. That joint size is based on several things, too esoteric to discuss here, but it is a good baseline to work from.

Generally, if I am going to cut units for the arch, I draw it out full scale and lay out the joints. If you are not going to cut each brick, then build up both sides at the same time, leveling across the units, and adjust (by cutting) the last 2 units before the keystone. If that works out to be a sliver of brick, i.e. less than 1/4 of a full unit, then you will need to reduce the size of the keystone.

[Xene]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

Four inches is really only two on each side overall, I could also trim that first course down a bit if I get spacers in there and see it won't work afterall. I had initially planned on doing a double course of brick there, but I realised quickly that was beyond my limited masonry skill. I think I'd like to try a unconventional patchwork brick look to the base, using half bricks on end in a stepping stone/loose herringbone pattern. I suppose I should test that out and see what kind of mortar joints I need there and keep the joints all uniform thickness.

I have my soldiers all set now though, I'll have to do a little dome building before I come back to this 'problem' :-) I will compensate for mortar joints this next arch build though.

[azatty]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

You have 12-14 joints to mortar, and even at 1/4" mortar lines, that's 3.5 inches you have to build into it. You'll probably be closer to 1/3" lines when you get done, snd that may be the figure TS is using in his calc. But you can compensate by beveling the joint sides of the brick.

[Xene]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

Thanks fellas, but I had kind of intended not to mortar the joints between the bricks, the arch supports itself, so I had initially planned on just mortaring them to the oven entry from the back, which would be hidden under insulation and stucco....however... I want that area bigger than I've initially planned (well, I am not much of a planner to be truthful.)

I'm more a work it out as I go kind of gal. SO - is there some standard for mortar to brick ratio I need to be aware of? I'd like to flare this opening a bit larger than the 21 1/2 inches I planned for - the oven opening is 20" x 13" so I'm leaving a jam for the door to set against, I thought if it tapered in from the opening, I could spread that a bit larger and make it easier to get that door in, so it doesn't catch as we move it into place because of a tight fit.

@Tscarborough - 4 1/2 linear inches of mortar is a bit more than I'd like to flare it - what thickness is the mortar using that figure?

Thanks for the help!

[Tscarborough]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

Yes, you have around 4 and a half linear inches of mortar joints in there you have not allowed for.

[SableSprings]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

Your arch looks terrific! Remember to account for the thickness of the mortar in the joints. I did a dry cut & fit also and didn't account for the mortar when I set them in place...caused a few choice phrases to be thrown out as the keystone no longer fit the space allotted.

[Xene]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

Okay, I had to abandon my first plan of using full brick because my saw can't cut them in one pass, too tall, so I went with a half brick design and cut my first successful (I think it was successful anyway) Roman arch. The granite keystone was a bear to cut down and still needs some re-texturing, but I'm working that out. What a learning experience - yeah, see my off cuts?

[cobblerdave]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

Gudday
Love to use old bricks love the difference in colour and texture....and found it suits my less than perfect bricklaying. Theres a pretty funny lot of bricks and payers used commons and house bricks. One brick came from an old pub (hotel) that was 100 yrs old and we used it as doorstop for years and some more from our old church building when they took it down ( fire damaged)...so the ovens got a bit of history and interest

Regards Dave

[Xene]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

Thanks for the help/advice/great pictures! I got the oven floor set/laid today, so now there is little between me and this arch (crazy, but I'm most excited about this arch build!) I'm going to use the same arch as 'windows' behind the grill, which should be a nice design element when I'm done...I'm anxious to see how difficult it will be to accomplish.

I'm using several different styles and color of recycled brick, my patio area is all recycled old brick and granite, so these old bricks are a great compliment to what I've got going already so I'm thrilled to have your approval on making the outer arch with them!

I'm considering a salvaged piece of black marble counter top as the landing. I have a bit of the FB board left and was wondering if I could put another piece under the marble and butt it up against a homemade 'threshold' of vermicrete to act as a heat break? Would I need that heat break? Could I use something else? I also have a lot of granite, would that be a better option? It is thick and rough, 5-8 inch blocks, but I could cut it if it was a better option for heat resistance.

Thanks again!

[SableSprings]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

I used bull-nosed bricks to give the front of my landing a bit more "user friendly" surface. I have firebricks out to the oven side of the ash dump slot and then finished with the bull-nosed bricks in the front. The rounded front has been nice to work with and the rounded bricks are slightly longer than normal to give you a touch more landing zone.

[azatty]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

I used kiln fired adobe brick for the facade arch. It's mortared to backer board, and I used the homebrew mortar both to set it and fill the joint between it and the firebrick. No problems so far.

The adobe is extremely light and easy to cut. And it's dirt cheap. Regular adobe is usually sun baked, and it's pretty boring to look at. However, when fired it vitrifies and all sorts of colors come out--reds, blacks, yellows, even shades of orange and blue--in bands and whorls on the bricks. Each firing is unique, so no two batches ever look the same. I hand-picked all my bricks for the arch and chimney. It also has a rough surface on one side because it is set in sand molds. That gives it a weathered look. The finished side is still rough, but not uniformly.

[cobblerdave]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

Gudday
Seems to me there are a lot of folk using a "heat break" to seperate there dome proper from the entrance/ landing....might be worth exploring?

Regards Dave

[Xene]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

Gudday
yes I have used plain brick for my entry/chimney ....no probs...
You have to admit firebricks are pretty boring looking ....gives you a chance to bring in colour and texture

Regards Dave

I agree! I'm going for a 'been here 100 years look' and the brand new firebrick just doesn't have that feel. This will let me tie the stand to the chimney and entry better too. Thanks!

[cobblerdave]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

Gudday
yes I have used plain brick for my entry/chimney ....no probs...
You have to admit firebricks are pretty boring looking ....gives you a chance to bring in colour and texture

Regards Dave

[Xene]

Re: Entry/landing brick to use?

Thanks, in reviewing the plans again I did see that it says you can make that vent/entry area with other materials. Terrific, as that slims down the profile of the opening and that was what I was hoping to accomplish.