If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
My concern was, slate absorb moisture, which can wick up from the base and if heated high enough would crack or break. P/Certe doesn't have the insulating properties of ceramic fiber board, so my question was, should the inches of p/crete be increase for added protection?
Heat shouldn't be a problem below the Pcrete/Vcrete if it is a minimum of 4" thick. But, moisture wicking could be easily stopped by a moisture barrier between the supporting base and the slate.
Joe Watson " A year from now, you will wish that you had started today" My Build Album / My Build
Please, Don't burn the book. Just put in the library until you finish your oven . A moisture barrier can be just moisture resistant paint, a piece of plastic, or a scrap piece of vynil floor covering placed between your support stand and the hearth.
Joe Watson " A year from now, you will wish that you had started today" My Build Album / My Build
Your first mistake is the Alan Scott book. God rest his soul, he has been the cause of more ovens being built that are inappropriate for their intended use than anyone in the world.
Burn the book.
Lay some poly down, put down a mortared base, then 4" of perlcrete, then build your oven per FB specs, if not design. It ain't rocket science unless you are building a rocket.
Seems like I have a better chance of flying to the moon on gossamer wings than making the simple humble oven that I had naively envisioned in the beginning.
New plan... I am going to set fire to Alan Scott's book and roast a marshmallow in the flame.
Thanks everyone I now realize this is not for me!!
Cheers, Annie
Gudday Annie
Not a peep out of you for a bit now. I don't think however you have given up on an oven. Exactly the opposite ....you have a stand made....a stack of firebrick purchased.... a stack of information as well. Recon your planning finished and your building now.
Well good on you....Go Girl.
If you read this and you hav'nt broke the link, how about a couple of pics when your finished...no comments or explainations required.... though I recon a simple Yippee!!! would be appropriate.
Regards Dave
Measure twice
Cut once
Fit in position with largest hammer
Sounds like you got the consistency pretty close. If it had been a "pour" type of consistency the portland would have settled to the bottom. You might want to cover the slab for a few days to keep it from drying out to fast. That will give it some time to cure. If they are not in your way leave the forms in place as long as possible. A couple of weeks if they are in your way. I removed some bracing from mine after about a week. The actual form was left in place to protect the edges much longer.
Joe Watson " A year from now, you will wish that you had started today" My Build Album / My Build
Happy New Year! So glad to hear that you are forging ahead. Yours is such a unique and all natural build, I look forward to seeing/hearing of your progress. I can't wait to see that gorgeous cast iron door on the front of your oven. I don't know how you plan to use it (it looks so heavy) but it looks just the thing for a "Rustic Primitive" oven.
It will be a humble little 28" oven floor... enough for a nice pizza... but also I have an idea for a 'stone rack' so I can do different kinds of baking on 2 levels.
My oven is also small (21") so I tried cooking bread on two levels, using a metal rack for a second level. It simply didn't work. The upper level bread shielded the bread on the bottom. Remember that a WFO works by radiating heat unlike a conventional convection oven. By all means give it a go, but I won't be surprised if you end up with the same disappointing results that I got. If you use a refractory shelf it might work better, but firing up with it in place may be problematic.
Comment