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36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

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  • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

    Originally posted by cobblerdave View Post
    Gudday
    Take it back a couple of rows and start again ... Can't hurt ....you have really had no setbacks to date so the progress thus far has been all foward.
    Regards dave
    Dave, I am reluctant to take down the rows but will if it turns out to be the best solution. I gather from your post that cantilevering the next row is not recommended. Assuming I am okay with scrapping the last row if this doesn't work, how about using the angle grinder with a diamond blade to cut the bricks not a wedge shape? I'm at the courthouse now and the trail is scheduled for,the full day Monday and Tuesday. So I have some time to consider options, including just flattening out the next two rows. Thanks for your help.
    Link to my build here:
    http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f6/3...lly-19181.html

    Check out my pictures here:

    Selected pictures of the build.

    https://picasaweb.google.com/1168565...g&noredirect=1





    sigpic “In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not.” ― Albert Einstein

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    • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

      Originally posted by Bec1208 View Post
      Dave, I am reluctant to take down the rows but will if it turns out to be the best solution. I gather from your post that cantilevering the next row is not recommended. Assuming I am okay with scrapping the last row if this doesn't work, how about using the angle grinder with a diamond blade to cut the bricks not a wedge shape? I'm at the courthouse now and the trail is scheduled for,the full day Monday and Tuesday. So I have some time to consider options, including just flattening out the next two rows. Thanks for your help.
      Gudday Bruce
      Can't say which way is the best at this point . Is not really a case of right or wrong with emotions playing a part. So perhaps a few days with the court case will give you some give you a bit of a breather.
      Regards dave
      Measure twice
      Cut once
      Fit in position with largest hammer

      My Build
      http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f51/...ild-14444.html
      My Door
      http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/...ock-17190.html

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      • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

        I wouldn't cantilever. Just increase the tilt for that row - cut a 5 degree wedge off the bottom of the brick. That will flatten things out.
        My build progress
        My WFO Journal on Facebook
        My dome spreadsheet calculator

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        • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

          They are going to try and finish an expert witness from Jacksonville so we were kept until about 6pm. Dave and deejayoh, thanks for your help.

          Originally posted by deejayoh View Post
          I wouldn't cantilever. Just increase the tilt for that row - cut a 5 degree wedge off the bottom of the brick. That will flatten things out.
          It seems like I would be better off cutting a wedge from the top of the last row (thereby dropping the height of the dome) and increase the tilt; or am I missing something? Bruce
          Link to my build here:
          http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f6/3...lly-19181.html

          Check out my pictures here:

          Selected pictures of the build.

          https://picasaweb.google.com/1168565...g&noredirect=1





          sigpic “In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not.” ― Albert Einstein

          Comment


          • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

            I think we are saying the same thing. The wedge could be from the top or the bottom, but the goal is to steepen the angle for the top face of the brick. That will make your dome meet sooner.

            But usually you can get to the plug for a 36" oven in about 10-11 courses. It looks like from your last picture you are on your tenth course now, and still a couple of courses away from your plug.

            Each course should steepen your angle about 8.5 degrees - and my trusty calculator says you should be at ~78 degrees with 7.5 inches between the inner brick edges. I would guess that diameter is close to a foot based on the picture. Given that, I'd at least knock those two bricks in your last course off and cut a wedge off those - and plan on doing the same for the last few courses. The alternative is going back as CD suggests to increase the angle on the previous course. But I think you can flatten it out as is. Know that it will just be trickier to mortar the bricks at that angle - and I don't think the ball shape is going to be great for getting the top as flat as you might want it.

            OR you could just have a higher dome It will still work.
            Last edited by deejayoh; 07-01-2013, 05:33 PM.
            My build progress
            My WFO Journal on Facebook
            My dome spreadsheet calculator

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            • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

              Oh, I can definitely see you've "coned out" in this picture. The last few courses look like you haven't changed the angle at all

              Click image for larger version

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              My build progress
              My WFO Journal on Facebook
              My dome spreadsheet calculator

              Comment


              • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

                Originally posted by deejayoh View Post
                But usually you can get to the plug for a 36" oven in about 10-11 courses. It looks like from your last picture you are on your tenth course now, and still a couple of courses away from your plug.
                Last course was #10 counting from health level. Curious, if I decide to go back a few rows; what is the best way to remove bricks without damaging the ones below?
                Link to my build here:
                http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f6/3...lly-19181.html

                Check out my pictures here:

                Selected pictures of the build.

                https://picasaweb.google.com/1168565...g&noredirect=1





                sigpic “In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not.” ― Albert Einstein

                Comment


                • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

                  Here's my dome at the 9th course - just so's you knows it happens to us all I knocked off one course and got it back on the right arc.
                  Click image for larger version

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                  If you want to knock off bricks, the way to do it is with a cold chisel and light (3lb) sledge - better yet a dead hammer. But I hesitate to suggest it. I ended up knocking off 3 or 4 bricks the layer under the one I wanted to remove, and others (texman) have had even worse experiences...

                  I know that laying those high bricks is extra effort for you - so I want to temper the advice. I'm super impressed with what you've done already.
                  My build progress
                  My WFO Journal on Facebook
                  My dome spreadsheet calculator

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                  • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

                    Originally posted by Bec1208 View Post
                    Last course was #10 counting from health level. Curious, if I decide to go back a few rows; what is the best way to remove bricks without damaging the ones below?
                    As mentioned you risk breaking the bond on other bricks by hammering on the ones you want to re-set.

                    I suggest that you get the tip of a flat head screw driver, old chisel or better yet, a trim bar under the offending brick, and just turn it sideways to pop the brick out. The first one will be the hardest, but once you have room, rotate the bar or screw driver toward the opening..they should come off without breaking the bond below. You ca use channel locks or pliers to give your turn a little more power.

                    I never did this on a wfo, but I have on a historic restoration projects were you have to be extremely careful not to damage the surrounding work. I realize that the mortar is softer on old buildings, but if the mortar on your build is relatively green (3 days or less) then you should have no trouble.
                    Last edited by stonecutter; 07-01-2013, 06:43 PM.
                    Old World Stone & Garden

                    Current WFO build - Dry Stone Base & Gothic Vault

                    When we build, let us think that we build for ever.
                    John Ruskin

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                    • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

                      Stone cutter
                      Bruce has already said that he has an angle grinder and blade. Would it help if Bruce chased a line horizontally along the mortar layer of brick to try and prevent vertical cracking the next layer?
                      Regards dave
                      Measure twice
                      Cut once
                      Fit in position with largest hammer

                      My Build
                      http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f51/...ild-14444.html
                      My Door
                      http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/...ock-17190.html

                      Comment


                      • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

                        Yes it would.
                        Old World Stone & Garden

                        Current WFO build - Dry Stone Base & Gothic Vault

                        When we build, let us think that we build for ever.
                        John Ruskin

                        Comment


                        • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

                          Originally posted by deejayoh View Post

                          I know that laying those high bricks is extra effort for you - so I want to temper the advice. I'm super impressed with what you've done already.
                          Thanks for the thoughts, the last course wore me out, so I am glad to have the break. I was pushing it because I knew I was going to be tied up with jury duty this week. The bad part was I recognized my error half way through and kept on going anyways. I'm getting used to the reality that the best approach is to take off the last two courses. So it goes.

                          Originally posted by deejayoh View Post
                          Here's my dome at the 9th course - just so's you knows it happens to us all I knocked off one course and got it back on the right arc.
                          Good to know I'm part of a club.

                          Originally posted by cobblerdave View Post
                          Stone cutter
                          Bruce has already said that he has an angle grinder and blade. Would it help if Bruce chased a line horizontally along the mortar layer of brick to try and prevent vertical cracking the next layer?
                          Regards dave
                          Thanks Dave, I was wondering if that would work.
                          Link to my build here:
                          http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f6/3...lly-19181.html

                          Check out my pictures here:

                          Selected pictures of the build.

                          https://picasaweb.google.com/1168565...g&noredirect=1





                          sigpic “In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not.” ― Albert Einstein

                          Comment


                          • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

                            A word of caution about using a diamond wheel though. If you are chasing out the joint and don't keep the blade straight in your cut, it can grab and lunge out. Then there is the dust factor too...for these reasons I didn't suggest using the grinder...I did notice the post earlier Dave.

                            Bruce, to echo the others, your efforts are much appreciated. Please use caution if you use the grinder. I have seen nasty injuries happen to guys that use them every day.
                            Last edited by stonecutter; 07-02-2013, 03:13 AM.
                            Old World Stone & Garden

                            Current WFO build - Dry Stone Base & Gothic Vault

                            When we build, let us think that we build for ever.
                            John Ruskin

                            Comment


                            • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

                              Originally posted by stonecutter View Post
                              A word of caution about using a diamond wheel though. If you are chasing out the joint and don't keep the blade straight in your cut, it can grab and lunge out. Then there is the dust factor too...for these reasons I didn't suggest using the grinder...I did notice the post earlier Dave.

                              Bruce, to echo the others, your efforts are much appreciated. Please use caution if you use the grinder. I have seen nasty injuries happen to guys that use them every day.
                              Would it work (and be safer) to use a masonary cutting or grinding wheel instead of the diamond blade?
                              Link to my build here:
                              http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f6/3...lly-19181.html

                              Check out my pictures here:

                              Selected pictures of the build.

                              https://picasaweb.google.com/1168565...g&noredirect=1





                              sigpic “In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not.” ― Albert Einstein

                              Comment


                              • Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

                                It would, but the same risks are there...I just wanted you to have the facts before proceeding.
                                Old World Stone & Garden

                                Current WFO build - Dry Stone Base & Gothic Vault

                                When we build, let us think that we build for ever.
                                John Ruskin

                                Comment

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