Tile saw question-

[thebadger]

Re: Tile saw question-

Dutchoven,

Thanks - exactly what I'm doing. I borrowed one of those "canister" types from my brother.

Last night it was real windy so the dust was blowing away.

Dick

[ikhan42]

Re: Tile saw question-

Thanks for the info guys I will ask the question in reverse now. If I by a tile/brick saw that operates as a drop saw but for the purpose of cutting tiles and bricks do you guys know if this can then be used as a drop saw/mitre saw to cut wood.

The saws seems to be fairly expensive here in Sydney and I dont mind spending the $$$$$ if I can use it for other things but aside from selling it on ebay there wont be much else I would be able to use it for after the WFO oven build. Unless ofcourse my friends and family as me to build WFO for them LOL.

Thanks for the info guys
Imran

[chuckster]

Re: Tile saw question-

Hey PizzaJNKY - Be real careful about building the WFO and then having to do the bathroom to "pay" for it. I thought that was the deal I was getting into and somehow a new kitchen showed up in the small-print!! Read the contract with care.

Let me add that the oven was worth it in the end and I was able to incorporate a granite pizza forming area in the kitchen. She thinks it was for her to roll-out the pasta dough

Chuck

[jengineer]

Re: Tile saw question-

Imran - You need to do a comparison. What is the RPM of the Chop/Drop saw that is designed for Wood and one that is used for Bricks. I don't know myself so that is one question to look into. If the HorsePower and rpm is close to the same then I would say sure use the same machine.

Other things to look out for. A dry saw even with water soaked bricks will kick up a lot of abrasive dust. This sutff is not good for the motor. Most wood chop saws have an open motor housing. To keep the tool up after you are done with the briks you will want to take the motor apart for a thourough cleaning. If the bearing are not sealed (they should be) you will need to replace them. Probably need to replace or at least inspect the brushes too. One thought to reduse the intake into the notor is to scab on some sort of cover that keeps the dust away but still lets the motor breathe.

Finally as I am sure you are aware don't use the carbide tipped wood blade on the bricks- get a brick blade.

je

[ikhan42]

Re: Tile saw question-

Imran - You need to do a comparison. What is the RPM of the Chop/Drop saw that is designed for Wood and one that is used for Bricks. I don't know myself so that is one question to look into. If the HorsePower and rpm is close to the same then I would say sure use the same machine.

Other things to look out for. A dry saw even with water soaked bricks will kick up a lot of abrasive dust. This sutff is not good for the motor. Most wood chop saws have an open motor housing. To keep the tool up after you are done with the briks you will want to take the motor apart for a thourough cleaning. If the bearing are not sealed (they should be) you will need to replace them. Probably need to replace or at least inspect the brushes too. One thought to reduse the intake into the notor is to scab on some sort of cover that keeps the dust away but still lets the motor breathe.

Finally as I am sure you are aware don't use the carbide tipped wood blade on the bricks- get a brick blade.

je

Jengineer,

Thanks for your response I definately wont be using one designed for wood to cut the bricks as the other responses said too much dust will ruin the drop saw but I am assuming that the one that is designed for bricks (wet saw) may be able to be used for wood if as you said HP and rpm are close ofcourse without the water connected.

My understanding is however that a brick/tile saw is just a bigger version of a grinder rather then a drop/circular saw. Will do some homework now.

Imran

[edschmidt]

Re: Tile saw question-

I just finished a 4000sf patio display at a mega building store where damn near every brick had to be channeled and/or cut for conduit, or for custom cuts on retaining wall block. Well we started with a $99 14" chopsaw which was designed for cutting metal. It was sending fire outside of the vents within 8 hrs of cutting with an abrasive blade. I swapped out the saw for a new one (same type) bought a 14" diamond ($49)blade and put one of those green scrubby things over the intake of the saw. It cut flawlessly for the next 2.5 weeks. Im talking 10hrs a day damn near nonstop. The only other saw which I used on the project was a makita 7.5" circular saw with a diamond blade. Again it was still running fine at the end of the project. Wear your dustmask, Dont overload the saw, and if you can find a way of filtering the air that goes into the saw thats a bonus.

P.S. I looked into renting a saw for the project and it would have run $50/day plus $25/day for the diamond blade with an additional wear charge for the blade which would have totalled $250. Im pretty sure I ended up ahead (plus I have 2 decent 14" diamond blades with over 1/2 of their life left.

[ikhan42]

Re: Tile saw question-

I just finished a 4000sf patio display at a mega building store where damn near every brick had to be channeled and/or cut for conduit, or for custom cuts on retaining wall block. Well we started with a $99 14" chopsaw which was designed for cutting metal. It was sending fire outside of the vents within 8 hrs of cutting with an abrasive blade. I swapped out the saw for a new one (same type) bought a 14" diamond ($49)blade and put one of those green scrubby things over the intake of the saw. It cut flawlessly for the next 2.5 weeks. Im talking 10hrs a day damn near nonstop. The only other saw which I used on the project was a makita 7.5" circular saw with a diamond blade. Again it was still running fine at the end of the project. Wear your dustmask, Dont overload the saw, and if you can find a way of filtering the air that goes into the saw thats a bonus.

P.S. I looked into renting a saw for the project and it would have run $50/day plus $25/day for the diamond blade with an additional wear charge for the blade which would have totalled $250. Im pretty sure I ended up ahead (plus I have 2 decent 14" diamond blades with over 1/2 of their life left.

EDSCHMIDT

The resaon I am asking this question is that the local hire places here in Sydney are quoting hiring charges of $100 per day for the saw and then seperate charges for the blade whick is dependant on how much of the saw is used in mm. I am looking at doing this slowly and with as little motar as possible inside if any so I dont want to pay $2000 for hiring the saw I may as well buy a precast dome if I am looking at those kind of expenses.

Imran

[mannextdoor]

Re: Tile saw question-

Unless you need something for less then one day, one time. It's the prefect excuse to buy another tool. Once you have it. You'll use it again.

[ikhan42]

Re: Tile saw question-

The problem is that to buy one is approximately $1000 unless I buy a manual brick cutter that looks like it would take forever to cut 150 bricks the way they need to be cut.

Any Aussie out there seen brick saws for cheaper that $800-1000 ???

Imran

Imran