It begins!

[brokencookie]

Re: It begins!

I have seen a lot of concrete laid over crushed rock followed by a layer of sand. The sand is generally used because it is easier to screed before pouring concrete. If you want a nice even surface so you are sure you have a 4 in ( or 5 in ect) slab, sand is cheap and easily leveled.


Bruce

[PeterW]

Re: It begins!

Sand is used as a 'blinding' layer - it fills most of the gaps in the top surface of the gravel, and stops any sharp stones puncturing a damp membrane layer which usually goes between the sub base and the concrete.

It also stops the fines in the concrete leaching downwards into the gravel, and as you say, makes it easier to get a consistent level of concrete.

Cheers

Peter

[mfiore]

Re: It begins!

I found a product called "Paver-Base". It's a fine gravel mixture, comes in 50 lb bags, and is designed to go underneath brick pavers. It compacted very well. With just a hand tamper, it was solid. You really could drive on it without leaving an impression.

I put in 4-5 inches of compacted Paver Base, covered with plastic, put up my forms, and put down the re-bar.

I now have a foundation that consists of 4 courses of concrete blocks, mortared together, resting on 12 inches of a concrete footer, the bottom of which is 48 inches below grade (6 inches below my frost line). The footing is tied to the foundation with 1/2" re-bar, with every core filled with concrete. The foundation has re-bar that will tie into the 6 inch concrete slab I've framed. I think I'm ready to pour concrete. Is there anything else I need to do before I pour the slab?

Also, there are a few cores of the foundation with re-bar sticking out that I did not fill with concrete yet. Do I need to fill them well, and let them cure prior to my concrete slab on top, or can I fill them at the same time as the concrete slab (make sense?)

Thanks again

[thebadger]

Re: It begins!

Mfiore,

Congras on the progess...

Seems like it would tie in better, but given the weight, I don't think it would matter either way but would defere to the one of the experts...

Now's the time to add a time capsule if you want. I left one core empty, put my capsule in and then add a piece of durarock over the opening to keep concrete from running in. I then market the spot on the outside so I can create a little plaque (cheesy I know but how would someone know it's there in 500 years )

Keep posting pics.

Dick

[mfiore]

Re: It begins!

Did you put the time capsule in the foundation or the stand?

[thebadger]

Re: It begins!

Mfiore,

I put the time capsule in the stand toward the top. It will still be covered with about 10 inches of concrete. I used a piece of PVC pipe that I capped on both ends (FYI - I read on one "time capsule" web site not to use PVC but I thought it made sense to use it). I then plan to get a little engraved plaque to marke the spot (cheesy I know ).

I've attached a pic. The green dot marks the core I put it in.

This was one of the few things my 4/6 yr old could get involved with.

Thanks
Dick

[wesslock]

Re: It begins!

needed to post to view pics , thanks

[mfiore]

Re: It begins!

Poured a 5.5 inch foundation slab yesterday. It was hot (for Michigan), so the concrete set up faster than anticipated. It still turned out pretty good. I'm keeping it misted and covered in plastic.

Tried to get the kids hand prints in, it was a little tough for them (I waited too long).

Is it safe to remove the forms? In three different sources, I've read to pull the forms in 2 hours, 2 days, and 7 days.

[thebadger]

Re: It begins!

Mfiore

Looking good!!!!

I need to add a concrete section by the wood opening so I plan on having the kids put their prints in that...

Dick

[gjbingham]

Re: It begins!

I like seven days before pulling forms. 3 is minimum.

[thebadger]

Re: It begins!

We had a patio poured and the took them offthe same day!

I think I've read 7 days 70% cure. I took my forms off my recent hearth pour in 2 days.

That said, go with what george says to be on the safe side - can't hurt to leave them on.

Dick

[mfiore]

Re: It begins!

Here is a photo of what I'm considering for my hearth design. I am worried that the traditional shape of the hearth stand would create too deep of a wood storage area, with a "dead" back end. The "H shape" would allow two separate wood storage areas, each more shallow.

Does anyone see any potential problems, either structurally or functionally?

[DrakeRemoray]

Re: It begins!

I do agree with the problem posed by the deep wood storage area (I end up rotating wood from the back of the storage area, out of the area, put in my less seasoned wood in the back then reload the front of the area, what a pain!)

But in your design, It does not look like you would have any room to access the back entrace to the storage area...

Also, my local building codes requried a 5-foot setback from my property line...just fyi...

[mfiore]

Re: It begins!

Drake,

Photo is a little deceiving. There seems to be enough room back there to walk and maneuver (32 inches).

I've called several times to confirm, our local building code does not consider anything less than 200 square feet to be a building and does not require a permit. They were uninterested (understaffed?) in hearing about my plans, so I went ahead and put the WFO where I thought best. The neighbors don't mind. Besides, this concrete slab is sitting on a 48 inch block and concrete foundation. I don't think I'm going to redo it.

[thebadger]

Re: It begins!

Mfiore,

I sort of heard the same thing from my zoning dept. They knew what a wfo but it "doesn't exist" in their records (unlike a shed for example) so I was free to do what I wanted. That said they suggested and Im close to the 5 foot set back from my side yard. Again, my neighbors don't seem to mind... Who doesn't like pizza.

I don't see any structural issues. I would defer to the experts. I didn't use angle iron but did use extra rebar to span my front opening. I would recommend using the angle iron in the front and back.

Dick