Great How To Video

[stevef22]

Found this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5Nv_FJdSyo

Very informative and good info.
How to build a wood fired oven from refractory mortar not bricks (much easier and faster!)

[Chach]

Just be careful what you see on youtube as there are some bad practices shown. Leaving the plywood under the slab not a good idea he also poured it in and can't be removed. If you do this you want to use cement board. My experience with getting info and I mean good info on how to build these ovens is right here with all these experienced builders. Not a bad idea of watching them getting design ideas and seeing someone cook in them but for informative building advice, this forum for sure is where you want to be.

Ricky

[stevef22]

Thanks Ricky! Good sugguestions. Im writing a book. Going to have you edit it! lol

[david s]

Just be careful what you see on youtube as there are some bad practices shown. Leaving the plywood under the slab not a good idea he also poured it in and can't be removed. If you do this you want to use cement board. My experience with getting info and I mean good info on how to build these ovens is right here with all these experienced builders. Not a bad idea of watching them getting design ideas and seeing someone cook in them but for informative building advice, this forum for sure is where you want to be.

Ricky

The construction of a heavy brick chimney over an unbutressed entry arch is asking for trouble IMO, either buttress or use a lightweight stainless pipe. The application of render directly onto blanket is also not recommended. Better to add a layer of 10:1 verm or perlcrete over it to provide a firmer substrate to apply the render to, as well as giving more insulation. Then do the drying fires to eliminate the water. And finally It is also prudent to cover the outer rendered layer to hold in the moisture for a week which will enhance its strength.

[stevef22]

Thank you David!! Great info. Ok you can co-edit my book.

"How NOT to build a WFO". lol


Ive learning so much. Thank you

[Yokosuka dweller]

The construction of a heavy brick chimney over an unbutressed entry arch is asking for trouble IMO, either buttress or use a lightweight stainless pipe. The application of render directly onto blanket is also not recommended. Better to add a layer of 10:1 verm or perlcrete over it to provide a firmer substrate to apply the render to, as well as giving more insulation. Then do the drying fires to eliminate the water. And finally It is also prudent to cover the outer rendered layer to hold in the moisture for a week which will enhance its strength.

Hi David, for the final render over the p-crete I have some questions: I've now let the p-crete layer dry or cure for about 1 month. I need to cover with a final render on the p-crete as you say. I've got alkali resistant nylon fiber, a liquid to mix into the mortar to make it water resistant (so it says on the description), and I've got lime, cement and silica sand. I'm almost good to go. Should I moisten the p-crete layer to make the render stick better? Also, how long should I wait from after finishing the render to covering it with clingfilm? I want to avoid cracks in the render as much as possible, but I also don't want the clingfilm to create impressions/landcapes/maps on the render which in my experience can happen if you cover it too soon. Thanks~!

[Chach]

The construction of a heavy brick chimney over an unbutressed entry arch is asking for trouble IMO, either buttress or use a lightweight stainless pipe. The application of render directly onto blanket is also not recommended. Better to add a layer of 10:1 verm or perlcrete over it to provide a firmer substrate to apply the render to, as well as giving more insulation. Then do the drying fires to eliminate the water. And finally It is also prudent to cover the outer rendered layer to hold in the moisture for a week which will enhance its strength.

There was so much going on in this guys video lol but He did build a nice sand stone base.

[Chach]

Thanks Ricky! Good sugguestions. Im writing a book. Going to have you edit it! lol

You for sure don't want me editing anything.

[david s]

The video also recommended the dangerous practice of using a standard drop saw fitted with a diamond blade to cut bricks. Not only is inhalation of brick dust highly hazardous (wear a respirator), the motor location is likely to get the dust into the motor and kill it. Also the technique of trickling water on the blade to reduce dust is inviting electrocution, as again the location of the motor and lack of integrated cut out switch. Use a proper brick saw that has the motor well away from the blade, a proper water feed system and a far less dangerous speed.

[david s]

Hi David, for the final render over the p-crete I have some questions: I've now let the p-crete layer dry or cure for about 1 month. I need to cover with a final render on the p-crete as you say. I've got alkali resistant nylon fiber, a liquid to mix into the mortar to make it water resistant (so it says on the description), and I've got lime, cement and silica sand. I'm almost good to go. Should I moisten the p-crete layer to make the render stick better? Also, how long should I wait from after finishing the render to covering it with clingfilm? I want to avoid cracks in the render as much as possible, but I also don't want the clingfilm to create impressions/landcapes/maps on the render which in my experience can happen if you cover it too soon. Thanks~!

If it’s been a month and presumably it hasn’t had rain on it then it should be pretty dry. I like to do the drying fires after the vermicrete layer to make sure it’s completely dry. Normally the substrate is dampened before applying a render, but doing that after expelling all the moisture seems counterintuitive so I do the outer render in one go, give it a sponge finish, which leaves it pretty hard. The cling wrap leaves no marks, but does hold the moisture in that outer layer well. I leave it cure for a week, uncover then leave it for another week to dry before firing. This procedure has worked well for me for years.