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Ground my floor tiles. Showing more pitting. How to grind / polish fire brick?

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  • Petter
    replied
    Originally posted by stevef22 View Post
    Thanks everyone. I might flip and see if that works If not no biggie. I can live with a little pitting on floor.

    Not ready to play chemist with my life for some pizza. lol
    I understand. However, remember that the msds apply to the SS in un-cured form. Compare with portland cement for example, it is very harmful when dry and wet, but used as countertops once cured.

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  • david s
    replied
    Originally posted by Chach View Post

    That might be a problem then...The mnkix to secure hearth bricks should be 50/50 of sand and clay and wet to a peanut butter consistency to set the floor no lime or portand in the mix. If one fails or cracks you would be able to take it out. This is what I would do just my opinion. Obviously your concerned and not happy with what you see. I would leave all the perimeter brick and change out the whole bricks and the bricks thatvwould butt up to your landing/heat break if you have one going in. If you mortatered these on top of silicate board it should come up easy but the first one my be hard but after that the rest should pop off easier as your able to get at it easier. just don't gouge the silicate board with tools. You will be much happier and glad you did it and now you won't jave toworry about a secondary product coming in contact with your food. Sometimes it takes more energy and thought to find a way to bandaid something then just ripping it off and doing it so you will be happy afterall your going to enjoy this oven for years to come.

    Ricky
    I think it’s better to keep the sand/clay levelling mix dry rather than wet so the floor bricks can expand independently and freely. it also has the advantage of making the floor bricks more easily removable. As the insulation board is so absorbent any wet mix also tends to dry as soon as it’s applied making the levelling job difficult.

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  • stevef22
    replied
    Thanks everyone. I might flip and see if that works If not no biggie. I can live with a little pitting on floor.

    Not ready to play chemist with my life for some pizza. lol

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    read the msds

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  • Chach
    replied
    Originally posted by stevef22 View Post
    They have about 1/2" in of 3:1:1:1 fire motar under them, stuck to bottom.
    That might be a problem then...The mnkix to secure hearth bricks should be 50/50 of sand and clay and wet to a peanut butter consistency to set the floor no lime or portand in the mix. If one fails or cracks you would be able to take it out. This is what I would do just my opinion. Obviously your concerned and not happy with what you see. I would leave all the perimeter brick and change out the whole bricks and the bricks thatvwould butt up to your landing/heat break if you have one going in. If you mortatered these on top of silicate board it should come up easy but the first one my be hard but after that the rest should pop off easier as your able to get at it easier. just don't gouge the silicate board with tools. You will be much happier and glad you did it and now you won't jave toworry about a secondary product coming in contact with your food. Sometimes it takes more energy and thought to find a way to bandaid something then just ripping it off and doing it so you will be happy afterall your going to enjoy this oven for years to come.

    Ricky

    Leave a comment:


  • stevef22
    replied
    Originally posted by Grahamstein View Post
    I'd be tempted to get some heat stop mortar and fill any pits in the floor, then fire it as if it was a new oven and see what happens.
    Just like others have commented about safety of water glass before cure. Is heatstop safe to direct cook on? Just wondering if you know. Thank you

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  • stevef22
    replied
    They have about 1/2" in of 3:1:1:1 fire motar under them, stuck to bottom.

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  • Chach
    replied
    can you just flip the bricks over to the other side?

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  • stevef22
    replied
    Please see this picture of brick pitting here




    Top Brick: Cut with wet tile saw. Smooth finish
    Middle Brick: Example of grinder on brick, grider does not create a smooth finish, neither does sanding. This is what my oven floor looks like.
    Bottom Brick: Smooth from factory brick
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/BEr4Mw13hZ9xrqi27

    -------------------------------------------------

    Example of grinding floor on single brick
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/cZBNL9kzHLz7jXyc7

    -------------------------------------------------

    Link to entire album here
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/m2snetu3LXUHz8Hi7

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  • Grahamstein
    replied
    I'd be tempted to get some heat stop mortar and fill any pits in the floor, then fire it as if it was a new oven and see what happens.

    Leave a comment:


  • stevef22
    replied
    Sure, I will take a vid and upload later tonight.

    Thanks for all input guys. It just seems from factory bricks have smooth finish. Any sort of sanding reveals pits. I will show you later what I mean.

    Vids/Pics soon to come.....!

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  • deejayoh
    replied
    This sounds like a bad experiment to me! Great if it works, but I've been a member here for more years that I care to think about - and it's not any sort of normal repair.

    Personally, a bit of pitting on the floor is no big deal. Doesn't need to be perfectly smooth, as it won't affect cooking results. If anything, I'd suggest pulling/flipping/reseating the bad bricks. They should go back at the same level.

    Edit: and FWIW - the post that Petter referenced is 10 years old... and the product referred to has a MSDS that suggests it belongs nowhere near food!

    https://images.homedepot-static.com/...6f4211e1a9.pdf
    Last edited by deejayoh; 05-01-2020, 12:05 PM.

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Can you post a picture of what your floor looks like? My floor certainly has what you might be calling pits in it from sliding cast iron cooking ware, pizza peels etc, and it cooks just fine. I figured anything that was going to come loose already has and it is just normal wear and tear. Just wondering if you are trying to fix a problem that really isn't going to effect your cooking.

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  • Petter
    replied
    Yes, thats true. It polymerize above 100 C and becomes silica.

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  • Petter
    replied
    Welcome, that's a good video. You should try to find a SS with SiO2 : Na2O in the 2-2.5 : 1 range. Too high SiO2 gives a harder but less flexible coating. The hardness is still very good for our needs. Flexibility is good to prevent spallaton during thermal cycling.

    Try source it locally ready mixed. $10 per liter in Sweden. Should find it in a hard ware store or where you buy paint.

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