Sairset 3000

[TommyTongue]

Can anybody tell me if Sairset 3000 is a suitable mortar for my oven?

[david s]

Can anybody tell me if Sairset 3000 is a suitable mortar for my oven?

No, it's not. It is a mortar designed for temperatures up to 3000F and as such contains high temperature material that your oven will never see. In addition its bonding and strength relies on the sintering of its composition which again won't be achieved in your oven. Use the homebrew 3:1:1:1 or a calcium aluminate based mortar.

[TommyTongue]

No, it's not. It is a mortar designed for temperatures up to 3000F and as such contains high temperature material that your oven will never see. In addition its bonding and strength relies on the sintering of its composition which again won't be achieved in your oven. Use the homebrew 3:1:1:1 or a calcium aluminate based mortar.

If i can get calcium aluminate does this just replace the cement in homebrew so its still 3 1 1 1. Or just mix it with water? Is it better than cement sand lime clay mix?

sorry for questions im a bit confused after reading the thread on high heat mortar with different ideas and mix quantities.

thanks

[david s]

No, it’s not suitable to be used with lime in a mix as it accelerates the reaction. Calcium aluminate cement goes off really fast and requires making in small batches because of this, if you mix it with lime it goes off even faster. It is also way more expensive. The upside is that it achieves full strength quite early so doesn’t require extended damp curing.

Stick to the homebrew, cheap, user friendly and suitable for WFO temperature range.

The homebrew mix contains Portland cement which requires extended curing, (see attached graph) Usually a week is considered adequate. If you were making a ferro cement boat you’d damp cure for 28 days. Most builders don’t even cover a concrete driveway. I think you should give it a decent chance of strength increase as it is going to take aa beating from the heat. Portland cement also begins to degrade north of 300C which a WFO will do. If it begins to fail then the lime takes over which doesn’t begin to fail until well north of 500C. Above that the clay takes over and sinters (becoming permanent) at 573C which is a temperature that ovens probably won’t reach and if deliberately pushed to that kind of temperature with wood produces a very erratic rate of temperature rise leading to uneven expansion of the different materials in the mix resulting in micro or macro cracking. The bottom line is that it works really well in the temperature range of our ovens, as well as being far more user friendly than the vastly more expensive calcium aluminate based products.

[TommyTongue]

Ok great info. Thanks. Home brew it is.