40" Oven on a trailer

[benny8]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

If you are planning on casting your oven with a lower quality refractory (Homebrew) then it doesn't make a lot of sense using a mortar that contains high temperature materials (>2000 F) I should think the Homebrew mortar would be more compatible.

A 40" oven is pretty big. Have you calculated how heavy it will be? You'll certainly need a tandem axle and a V8 to haul it.

To make my flue removable, I did not use an anchor plate. I wrapped some stainless sheet around the flue pipe, holding it together with two wire bands, slightly loose so the pipe would slide easily inside it. I also cut a few tags in this sleeve and bent them out horizontally so they would embed in the castable that surrounded the sleeve. Simple, works a treat.

A 2.5" wall thickness with a 15" dome height calculated out to about 750 lb dome weight. My question was not about using the 2 together. The question was could the HeatStop be used as a castable itself and if anyone has had any experience with it? The FireWithin trailers utilize single axles with their ovens weighing 12-1300 lbs. I am sure a single axle trailer will be suitable for my build as well as my V6 pickup.

[david s]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

Thanks guys!
Mr.Chip-My WFO outside has vermiculite poured in around it. I will go with one layer of ceramic blanket, straps over that, then fill with vermiculite.

Still would like your suggestions as to using HeatStop at $53 per 50#bag or just go with the homebrew. Really value your thoughts.

If you are planning on casting your oven with a lower quality refractory (Homebrew) then it doesn't make a lot of sense using a mortar that contains high temperature materials (>2000 F) I should think the Homebrew mortar would be more compatible.

A 40" oven is pretty big. Have you calculated how heavy it will be? You'll certainly need a tandem axle and a V8 to haul it.

To make my flue removable, I did not use an anchor plate. I wrapped some stainless sheet around the flue pipe, holding it together with two wire bands, slightly loose so the pipe would slide easily inside it. I also cut a few tags in this sleeve and bent them out horizontally so they would embed in the castable that surrounded the sleeve. Simple, works a treat.

[benny8]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

David, I was not thinking hard up to the dome but as stated secondary after the blanket. But if secured properly loose vermiculite or perlite will work great as that is how my house is filled, many cubic feet of perlite just poured in.

Because you will be driving down the road you will need to seal up every possible escape route for the vermiculite or perlite as it will blow out of even the smallest hole. Seal the house well with some type of caulk or other sealant and I think I would cover the last bit with fine screen or something that breathes but does not allow the loose insulation to escape.

Thanks guys!
Mr.Chip-My WFO outside has vermiculite poured in around it. I will go with one layer of ceramic blanket, straps over that, then fill with vermiculite.

Still would like your suggestions as to using HeatStop at $53 per 50#bag or just go with the homebrew. Really value your thoughts.

[mrchipster]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

Using perlcrete or vermicrete hard up against the dome in order to give it strength is not particularly productive because it is pretty weak. You can increase its strength by adding more cement and sand, but what you gain in strength you lose in insulating capacity eg doubling its strength will halve its insulating value.
I used vermicrete insulation for my mobile because the fibre blanket available then (at realistic cost) was the older generation unsafe ceramic fibre. The vermicrete probably does do a better job holding the dome in position than blanket would.
Also using perlcrete or vermicrete up against the dome requires much more care in water elimination.

David, I was not thinking hard up to the dome but as stated secondary after the blanket. But if secured properly loose vermiculite or perlite will work great as that is how my house is filled, many cubic feet of perlite just poured in.

Because you will be driving down the road you will need to seal up every possible escape route for the vermiculite or perlite as it will blow out of even the smallest hole. Seal the house well with some type of caulk or other sealant and I think I would cover the last bit with fine screen or something that breathes but does not allow the loose insulation to escape.

[Toomulla]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

Having pondered at length the problems regarding transporting my (brick dome) oven on a trailer I've decided it probably wouldn't survive; however I did think about inflating a yoga ball inside prior to moving it as a form of internal suspension.

A dome is self supporting you would do better to compress the outside rather the support the inside

[benny8]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

Anyone know anything about Heat Stop refractory cement? My local brick supplier has it for $53 per 50# bag. I would like anyone's information they might have on this product.

[benny8]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

Indeed, maybe you'll need to hang about and drink beer until it's cool enough !

LOL-if it is like my current oven, there isn't enough beer to drink before it cools down. Mine will still hold heat 24hrs later and it is about 250 degrees.

[oblertone]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

oblertone-that is a great idea with a cold oven, not sure how it would work transporting after an event is finished with a warm oven.

Indeed, maybe you'll need to hang about and drink beer until it's cool enough !

[benny8]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

oblertone-that is a great idea with a cold oven, not sure how it would work transporting after an event is finished with a warm oven.

[oblertone]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

Having pondered at length the problems regarding transporting my (brick dome) oven on a trailer I've decided it probably wouldn't survive; however I did think about inflating a yoga ball inside prior to moving it as a form of internal suspension.

[benny8]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

Thanks David and Mr Chip. I think I will be going with the fiber blanket over the top then strapped over that. I will also fill the house with vermiculite. I want to be able to get to the dome, should it fail miserably, and change it out. I used 3:1:1:1 on my dome at the house, so I will go with that along with the needles and polypropylene fibers. Unless I can find a castable refractory mix locally.

[david s]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

Using perlcrete or vermicrete hard up against the dome in order to give it strength is not particularly productive because it is pretty weak. You can increase its strength by adding more cement and sand, but what you gain in strength you lose in insulating capacity eg doubling its strength will halve its insulating value.
I used vermicrete insulation for my mobile because the fibre blanket available then (at realistic cost) was the older generation unsafe ceramic fibre. The vermicrete probably does do a better job holding the dome in position than blanket would.
Also using perlcrete or vermicrete up against the dome requires much more care in water elimination.

[mrchipster]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

David, what do you think about the perlcrete in the house?

[david s]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

I think we will be going with a one piece cast with the needles instead of the mini rebar. Will a 5:1:1:1 mix be suitable for this?

Don't know, I always used the 3:1:1:1 but now always use a proprietary calcium aluminate castable.

[benny8]

Re: 40" Oven on a trailer

I think we will be going with a one piece cast with the needles instead of the mini rebar. Will a 5:1:1:1 mix be suitable for this?