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Casa100 Build - Chico CA

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  • hillscp
    replied
    All I have time for today. Headed to San Francisco to watch the Giants Dodgers playoff game. Go Giants!

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  • hillscp
    replied
    Thanks Shawnr - Not building the house yet just thinking ahead. Good idea with the straps. I think I'll try that!. Great idea putting the mixer up on blocks!

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  • Shawnr
    replied
    As to the screws question, I backed up the screws with a couple of ratchet strips. The blocking mid way also helped keep the sides from bowing. Seemed to work ok for me but I am one of the least experienced ones here. Thought the photo might help you though. See post #13

    A friend lent me a mixer but I would have gotten one, but I am lazy. And I think the mixer does a better job. My hearth was like 57" x 63" ish and I used 19 bags. I have seen videos of guys doing much larger jobs by hand but wow, lots of work. I think not having to mix allows more time to work with the concrete in the form.

    Everything I have read about the hearth on here just mentions the rebar in the configuration you mention. Not sure why the mesh is skipped but I would guess that with that close a matrix of rebar, the mesh is redundant. In the base, the rebar is only laid around the edges so the mesh helps in the middle.

    Re the taping of the seam, I did the support slightly different, a plywood bottom that was removed. I put a 2x6 under the seam to support its length, and I taped it.

    I am starting my steel stud frame soon too and have not done much with them either. I consulted a carpenter friend and he gave me a few pointers and ideas.

    I am confused...you are building the house before the oven?
    Last edited by Shawnr; 10-08-2021, 06:49 PM.

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  • hillscp
    replied
    I am getting close to pouring the hearth. After that I have a lot of design decisions to make. I'm pretty sold on building a "house" out of metal studs and hardi backer covered in stucco and tile trim.

    First things first though; the hearth. I'm using the instructions that came with the kit for reference. They are somewhat ambiguous and downright contradictory in some cases .

    Here is my plan for the Hearth construction
    • Build a support structure inside the block base using 2x4's. Start by creating a support around the inside edge then suspend horizontal members from the edge support. Leave the vertical supports a little short and shim them underneath so they can be adjusted and removed easily.
      • Question - How far apart should the horizontal cross members be? The widest span is 47" so I'm thinking one horizontal member should do? That leaves ~24" between horizontal support members. I have a recurring nightmare about the whole thing falling down.
    • Lay 1/2" hardi backer on the support frame and across the top of the block
      • Question - I have worked with hardi backer before laying tile. Is there any reason to tape the seam in the middle?
    • Build a form around the perimeter with 2x6 lumber and 2x4 vertical supports. The concrete should be 3.5" plus .5 inches of hardi backer making a 4" thick hearth.
      • Question - How should the form members be fastened at the corners? Just screws through the lumber and into the end grain? I have a fear of it coming apart. Screwing into end grain scares me.
      • Question - can I be successful mixing 18 60lb sacks of concrete in a wheelbarrow with a hoe or should I rent a mixer? Reasoning is that I'm not sure how fast I need to be getting all the concrete in the form
      • Question - How far apart should the rebar be. Instructions say 1/2" rebar 12" on center. Should I add mesh?

    Thanks in advance. the next thing will be framing the house with metal studs. I've never worked with them before.
    Last edited by hillscp; 10-07-2021, 06:20 AM.

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  • Gulf
    replied
    For future builders following: My advice is to not use a release agent of any kind for a surface that will be tiled. The rough surface is what you want anyway.

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  • david s
    replied
    Yes, scrub it with detergent, let it dry, paint on an acrylic tile sealer, then tile, using a quality outdoor tile adhesive.
    Last edited by david s; 10-04-2021, 02:09 PM.

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  • hillscp
    replied
    PAM is spray on cooking oil. I did use it sparingly. Almost pure canola oil. Maybe I'll scrub it with detergent, I want to tile it.
    Last edited by hillscp; 10-04-2021, 01:30 PM.

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  • david s
    replied
    I’m not sure what you used as a release agent, I use mineral oil/kerosene 50/50, but it can interfere with the bonding of any subsequent coating applied over the casting if you don’t scrub it off. That’s part of the reason I dilute the oil and apply it sparingly.

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  • hillscp
    replied
    I pulled off the front of the form. Looks really good (to me)! Little steps and victories. Just in case you were wondering - PAM works great as a release. I'll leave the inside of the form up until later this evening. I'm going to have to cut out the center members so I can pull the sides away (the screws face the concrete)

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Lintel Form Off 1.jpg
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  • hillscp
    replied
    I tied the rebar to the block and poured the lintel today. I'll remove the form tomorrow after work. 24hrs should be enough? I put 4 pieces of rebar in the top. Went pretty smoothly.. My daughter helped.

    The only thing of note was that the epoxy I bought to anchor the rebar was a disaster. It cured way too fast and clogged up the applicator. I ended up throwing it away and getting some portland based anchoring cement. Much cheaper and far easier to work with.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	lentil rebar.jpg Views:	0 Size:	629.1 KB ID:	442028 Click image for larger version  Name:	lentil pour.jpg Views:	0 Size:	296.1 KB ID:	442029
    Last edited by hillscp; 10-04-2021, 12:49 PM.

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  • david s
    replied
    As the inventor of this little innovation, that I’ve been using for 13 years, I should be speaking with some authority, but I’m really not sure. I use a single hole, around 12mm (1/2”) in diam, cast into the precast supporting slab for our product. It works pretty much like the little hole in a saucepan lid, both reducing steam pressure as well as providing a path for water drainage either liquid or vapour. In this regard the larger the number of holes the better I should think. I often remind myself of a new electric kiln that I fired empty (according to manufacturers instructions) up to device temperature. At around 400C (750F) around 100 ml of water began dripping out from one front bottom corner. The water in the refractory, being driven out hitting the cooler metal outer casing, condensing and running down the sides to exit via gravity at the front corner. I was surprised that this occurred at such a high temperature. This also led me to design a venting system to allow steam pressure relief and a pathway for water vapour between the inner and outer domes to the atmosphere.
    regarding the mesh over the holes I prefer to place it on the inner or upper side of the slab, but this is only possible if it’s glued on before the floor insulation is laid over it.
    Last edited by david s; 10-02-2021, 01:42 PM.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    There is really no specific size requirement for weep holes. Since you already have a bit for the rebar, I would just use it. Be careful when you reach the other side, go gently, it will crater out. Option is to drill a small diameter then drill larger from both ends. Silicon some wire mesh on the bottom to keep the bugs out;.

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  • hillscp
    replied
    david s I searched the forum and found reference to the weep holes being 1/2". Is this correct?

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  • david s
    replied
    The standard is 4” thick with steel reinforcing in the lower third of the slab so it’s in tension rather than compression. If making it thinner be aware that it’s strength is proportional to its thickness (halving thickness produces 1/4 of the strength).
    the slab should go to the outside of the blocks and fill every second core with concrete and steel bar.
    support the cement sheet near the centre with some 4x2, but place wedges under them for easy removal that won’t damage the concrete when you pull them out. Also cast in a few weep holes near the centre of the slab to assist underfloor insulation drying and draining. I use some foam rubber inserted into the concrete after it’s been screened off.

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  • hillscp
    replied
    david s - That is a slick solution. Unfortunately I tend to go to Lowes when looking for ideas and they do not stock those 45 degree blocks so it did not occur to me. I am modifying the sketchup model as I go along to reflect what I "should" have done and I agree that this would have been the best solution for the lintel. Keep me feeding ideas.

    The next big thing will be pouring the Hearth.

    I intend to use hardi backer as the base for the Hearth and extend it over the block but I'm looking for experienced opinions. I have two questions.

    1. Should the Hardi Backer go all the way to the outside edge of the block base or should it only extend to the inside edge in which case the concrete would go over the top of the block.
    2. Should I put rebar in the block cores sticking up about 3 inches to anchor the hearth to the base?

    Anything else?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by hillscp; 09-28-2021, 10:28 AM.

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