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How to Build an Oven With a Forno Bravo Kit Video
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I notice they’ve not updated their build method from years ago. No underfloor drains, lots of time spent applying lathe, drilling refractory and not driving out moisture prior to stucco.
, or provision of a steam pressure vent in the dome.Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.
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I agree David (except for the lathing). I would also like to see them elevate the insulation up off of the structural hearth. My guess is that Southern California does not get the amount of rain associated with water intrusion that many of us have to deal with. However, I believe that this newly released video will be a big help to Forno Bravo kit owners and their installers.Joe Watson " A year from now, you will wish that you had started today" My Build Album / My Build
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A layer of lean vermicrete over the blanket followed by by a render containing random reinforcing fibres is many times faster than applying lathe. It also does a better job at restoring the form and allows for a thinner outer stucco layer, reducing time, weight and materials.Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.
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It's a good technique. However, if you elevate the insulation above the hearth slab, there are other techniques available.Last edited by Gulf; 07-05-2022, 06:19 PM.Joe Watson " A year from now, you will wish that you had started today" My Build Album / My Build
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My intention is to follow the suggestions to use some broken tile and drain holes in hearth to prevent water absorption (unless there is a better more current solution). Is there a better technique rather than tapconing the wire to the hearth in this instance? Still want a smooth stucco dome finish when im all said and done.
Edit: I have been doing a little more looking into this to see if the glass tile/drain holes were still the latest greatest technique and I have discovered the discussions on Foamglas. (not sure how I missed all that before). I really do not want to add an additonal 2" of floor height to my build but maybe its worth it. Next question would be how do I source the stuff? I can't seen to find the sheets that folks are mentioning?Last edited by Stlavsa; 07-06-2022, 08:42 AM.
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I was finally able to source Foamglas block in April from Distribution International. It's a tough get. Not all of their locations stock it. I received 24 - 2"x18"x24" blocks. The cost was $285. Freight turned out to be another $205. Thought that was a lot for such a small load, but the alternative was a 4 hr drive.
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I'm not sure about the "broken" tiles. The smaller kitchen back splash and bath tiles are easier to work with. They come in small shapes that are pre-spaced on a mesh that provide plenty of channels for the water to exit the weep holes in the hearth. They can sometimes be found in discontinued styles that are relatively cheap. Here is a link to an ongoing build that goes into this in depth Simmental Farm 36" Pompeii and 48" Rumford Style Fireplace.
If you prefer not to drill into the hearth, then cut your under floor insulation to fit the thickness of blanket insulation (at least the bottom layer if multiple layers). A good type of anchor can be cut from thin 90 ° flashing material. I can cut out a sample tomorrow and add a pic to this post. (you may also want to think about starting a "build thread" of your own) Those anchors can be slid in between the underfloor insulation and the tiles before you lay the dome brick . Space them around the perimeter of your underfloor insulation and you there you have itLast edited by Gulf; 07-07-2022, 05:48 PM.Joe Watson " A year from now, you will wish that you had started today" My Build Album / My Build
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Thank you. Perhaps I should start up a build thread. I actually found a bunch of cut hexagon porcelain tiles left over from our bathroom remodel this past winter (forgot i had them). I believe I can cut those away from the backer and place them for channeling.
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