I got the hands on a metal stand that begged to be transformed into an oven... So be it! Started the build on the 24th of mars. Still sub zero degrees in the night, can't work on the big oven anyway...
Bottom 60x100 cm wide x long, 7 cm deep. Look at the bottom right in the picture for understanding.
- Supported 3 mm hot rolled steel.
- Insulation made of 7 cm mixed leftover CaSi- board and ratio 25:1 perlite:cement (by volume, 2:1 by weight). About 30 % board and the rest perlcrete.
- 1-2 cm Homebrew for leveling and floor and dome support.
The homebrew was cast inside this frame on the insulation.
No stainless needles or PP burn out fibers were used in the homebrew. The sand was plain sand, 0.1-1 mm in size. The clay was kaolin, I did not have fire clay. It is less stickey but more refractory and shrink less than regular fire clay.
Dome
- 3 cm thick front and back.
- 3 cm thick sides, gradually thicker to 5 cm at the dome top. I did not fill in the casting defects after mold removal.
- 27 cm high, 40 cm wide and 70 cm deep.
Flue gallery
- 1:5 refractory cement (Calcium Aluminate) and perlite. About 3 cm thick adjacent the dome and 5 cm towards the front. I was scared of spalling if OPC was used and I already had the CA.
- About 50x150 mm flue, XX cm high.
- 15 cm opening height (9/16 ratio, 0.56 instread of the commonly 0.63). XX cm deep.
- The opening was cast on a half bucket and expands towards the opening from the oven chamber.
- Thin render with homebrew. Maybe 2-4 mm to protect the perlcrete.
Insulation
- 7 cm on the sides expanding to 10 cm around the dome of 25:1 perlite : cement (portland). 2:1 by weight. 0-5 mm perlite fraktion. About 0.22 kg/l dry density.
- 7 cm on the back.
Final render
- Galvanized wire mesh 2x2 cm squares around the whole oven.
- 1.5 cm 4:1:1 sand cement lime.
- White Silicate paint.
Curing
I'm lazy so I got an electric bbq fork lighter 500 W and inserted it into the oven after a week of wet curing under cling film. Everything but the paint was finished by then. Let the handle stick out and sealed the front and back opening with insulating firebricks.
First 48 h was on-off with 30 min interval using a timer. Too much steem otherwise. Next 12 days were constant 500 W. The back wall temperature slowly rised 10-15 C per day to top at 180 C after total 14 days. Constant temperature the last few days. The garage windows stopped beeing steemy in the mornings after 11 days. Barely any water adsorbed on cling film on for 2 h after 14 days. Time for fire!
I got help from 3 hungry neighbours to lift the oven into position and started the fire the next day (today actually). 200-300 C top dome temperature for 8 h. No steem, cracks or so. Increased to 500-600 C over next period of 4 h. Everything went very well. Two small hairline cracks on the inside of the opening where the 2 mm homebrew layer was. I have not noted anything else. Not in the dome or on the outside. Very pleased with that so far.
Lovely weather today!
Curing continues tomorrow. Pizza on monday!
Thanks a lot to everyone who contribute to this fantastic forum and knowledge sharing! I would not have done it without you.
Bottom 60x100 cm wide x long, 7 cm deep. Look at the bottom right in the picture for understanding.
- Supported 3 mm hot rolled steel.
- Insulation made of 7 cm mixed leftover CaSi- board and ratio 25:1 perlite:cement (by volume, 2:1 by weight). About 30 % board and the rest perlcrete.
- 1-2 cm Homebrew for leveling and floor and dome support.
The homebrew was cast inside this frame on the insulation.
No stainless needles or PP burn out fibers were used in the homebrew. The sand was plain sand, 0.1-1 mm in size. The clay was kaolin, I did not have fire clay. It is less stickey but more refractory and shrink less than regular fire clay.
Dome
- 3 cm thick front and back.
- 3 cm thick sides, gradually thicker to 5 cm at the dome top. I did not fill in the casting defects after mold removal.
- 27 cm high, 40 cm wide and 70 cm deep.
Flue gallery
- 1:5 refractory cement (Calcium Aluminate) and perlite. About 3 cm thick adjacent the dome and 5 cm towards the front. I was scared of spalling if OPC was used and I already had the CA.
- About 50x150 mm flue, XX cm high.
- 15 cm opening height (9/16 ratio, 0.56 instread of the commonly 0.63). XX cm deep.
- The opening was cast on a half bucket and expands towards the opening from the oven chamber.
- Thin render with homebrew. Maybe 2-4 mm to protect the perlcrete.
Insulation
- 7 cm on the sides expanding to 10 cm around the dome of 25:1 perlite : cement (portland). 2:1 by weight. 0-5 mm perlite fraktion. About 0.22 kg/l dry density.
- 7 cm on the back.
Final render
- Galvanized wire mesh 2x2 cm squares around the whole oven.
- 1.5 cm 4:1:1 sand cement lime.
- White Silicate paint.
Curing
I'm lazy so I got an electric bbq fork lighter 500 W and inserted it into the oven after a week of wet curing under cling film. Everything but the paint was finished by then. Let the handle stick out and sealed the front and back opening with insulating firebricks.
First 48 h was on-off with 30 min interval using a timer. Too much steem otherwise. Next 12 days were constant 500 W. The back wall temperature slowly rised 10-15 C per day to top at 180 C after total 14 days. Constant temperature the last few days. The garage windows stopped beeing steemy in the mornings after 11 days. Barely any water adsorbed on cling film on for 2 h after 14 days. Time for fire!
I got help from 3 hungry neighbours to lift the oven into position and started the fire the next day (today actually). 200-300 C top dome temperature for 8 h. No steem, cracks or so. Increased to 500-600 C over next period of 4 h. Everything went very well. Two small hairline cracks on the inside of the opening where the 2 mm homebrew layer was. I have not noted anything else. Not in the dome or on the outside. Very pleased with that so far.
Lovely weather today!
Curing continues tomorrow. Pizza on monday!
Thanks a lot to everyone who contribute to this fantastic forum and knowledge sharing! I would not have done it without you.
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