PNW Pizza

[Warhorn6]

Looking great.

[Lotus19]

Howdy. I have a double-walled SS chimney, that I want to paint. The stainless is too bright on sunny days, and I'm hoping to paint it a matte dark brown to blend in with my backyard trees. I've read SS can be tricky to paint, but I plan to clean, then scuff up with sandpaper or use an etching primer...

Has anyone else on the forum painted their chimney? I figured it would be easy to just get high temp BBQ/engine paint, but it seems like al the high temp paints need to be heated to fully cure. But since it's double-walled, it doesn't get hot enough to cure, so the high temp paint isn't really necessary. Does anyone know of any high temp spray paints that DON'T need to be cured? Since the outside of the chimney doesn't get too hot, can I just use regular spray paint?

Thanks,

Joe

[Giovanni Rossi]

Lotus19 , The kit I'm using has P.P.G. Temptec 328

It is available in Satin Black and is rated for stainless steel.

Here's the Tech Data Sheet: 328_TEMPTEC_CPC_Colour_TDS_23-08-2021.pdf

[Lotus19]

Lotus19 , The kit I'm using has P.P.G. Temptec 328

It is available in Satin Black and is rated for stainless steel.

Here's the Tech Data Sheet: [ATTACH]n452660[/ATTACH]

Hi Giovanni,

Thanks. I've found plenty of paints designed for SS, but It's the curing that I'm having trouble with. The data sheet says "Optimum hardness for handling can be obtained by baking at the temperature to 200*C for 2 hours". My chimney gets nowhere near that temp.

[Giovanni Rossi]

It's a conundrum. I have some high-heat Krylon spray that doesn't need to be heat cured but it doesn't play well with SS. If you really don't think you're going to exceed the max service temp for standard paint for SS, give it a try. Not sure what your pipe diameter is, but another option (if it's not too clunky) could be to wrap your stack with a section of black stove pipe.

[Lotus19]

Finally cooked our first pizza yesterday!!

It's been a long journey, but so worth it. I never would've attempted anything like this without this great forum. Started digging the dirt for the foundation the day before Easter, 2022 and had our first meal Mother's Day, 2023.

We ended up making 5 pizzas last night: The first was, of course a margherita. 2: pepperoni. 3: pesto. 4: prosciutto with balsamic/fig drizzle and mixed greens. 5: dessert pizza with just butter and lots of cinnamon sugar.

Once I finish a couple of small, finishing items, It'll be DONE and I'll post the pics!


Joe

[UtahBeehiver]

Not too bad for the first pizzas.

[Lotus19]

Oven is done! Well technically, I still need to finish my door, but other than that, it's done.

So far, its working great. Did a spatchcock chicken last night, then cranked up the heat and did a couple of New York's in the cast iron, finished with a peppercorn sauce. A few hours later, made a couple pizzas for the neighbor kids... It's going to be a fun summer!

[kebwi]

Nicely done. You're right across the water from me, about about a year ahead of me on this project, assuming I get going here. I miss my first oven, I need to make another one (I moved). Your nearby project is inspiring.

I see a common revision to ovens in recent years is to stop the herringbone floor at the arch and then brick the gallery floor pointing straight out the door, parallel to the entry axis. Did you (and do others) do this primarily to put some sort of thermal break in the floor at the transition point? I know one thread specifically showed how someone cut the underside rear edge of the "straight" bricks at 45 degrees to reduce surface contact between the two floor sections and even filled the 45 gap with a triangular sliver of insulation board. But I'm not clear on whether everyone who runs their gallery bricks longways is specifically designing and building some sort of thermal break in at the transition, or if lots of people have just started running their gallery bricks longways for some other reason, perhaps even just aesthetics -- although it doesn't appear to my aesthetic preference, I admit. I think it looks better if the herringbone patterns goes right how the door -- but it would be to put a thermal break in there. So...yes? No?

Cheers!

[Kris S]

Did you (and do others) do this primarily to put some sort of thermal break in the floor at the transition point?

I think I just went with the easiest solution, I don't have a thermal break...