If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Well, today is the big day!! Anticlimactic, almost...
First a couple fun pics... Been wanting to post these couple...
Manufacturers have nightmares about people like me (and I suspect most of you... ) Their attorneys lay awake at night tossing and turning over scenarios just like these pics. [Do as I say, not as I do! Don't do this... (yeah, right.)]
How often when cutting brick do you need a third hand? Well, often I would clamp the brick to the backstop under the blade... but sometimes you just have to be a little more creative!
The nice thing about these blades is that they are more abrasive than particularly dangerous. I did manage to just scuff my thumb one time, though another point I accidentally very slightly twisted a brick that was not against the backstop and it grabbed the blade slamming it and a finger up against the backstop... that kinda smarted!! Still have the bruise and it was about a week ago!
So, we closed up the oven this morning!
Managed to straighten out a few things on the 12th course then debated three vertical bricks or two horizontal bricks for the 13th. Decided on the two horizontal.
Spent a little time inside the oven cleaning the ceiling and filling cracks, then sponged them off. Still need to do a little more cleaning and maybe some wire brush work, but letting things solidify good before tackling that. Maybe this evening.
Pics of this morning's progress follow in this and the next post.
So, it looks like next Tuesday we can begin curing fires. A good bit of clean up to do right now and need to get the finish coat on the stuccoed shop wall, but high percent chance of rain make me think it best not to chance that until Thursday.
The fireplace and inside of the oven will get attention between now and then.
Also, read last night that stucco needs to season for a month or so before painting it... May be a few weeks before we get to the paint part since I am not even finished with the fireplace or enclosure, both of which will be stuccoed.
Anyone with Rumsford fireplace experience?? I have a question about options for the smoke chamber... Cement? Cast refractory cement? Cut/pieced clay flue liner? Stacked and mortared half bricks? Too many options and considering the cost of each...
Thanks all for your inspiring threads, pics and honest self evaluations. They have been invaluable in this project.
Not done yet, but the major milestone has passed! Bread and pizza in the near future!
Anyone with Rumsford fireplace experience?? I have a question about options for the smoke chamber.
I built a couple of rumfords. In one, I used split 8*12 flue tile to establish the smoke chamber, in the other I built it with firebrick splits lining an existing chimney. The pre-made smoke chambers from Superior Clay seem pricey to me, but I'm cheap. I think as long as you follow the general plans on the rumford.com website, you'll be fine no matter what you make it with.
If you have more money than time or skill, buy the Superior parts. Otherwise, you don't need any of the Rumford specific castings. About 2/3 of my customers now build theirs from scratch (usually with the 1/4 round throat pieces, though) while the other third think the time savings and inability for their guys to screw it up buy the Superior products (Residential and Commercial masonry contractors).
Will figure out a way to fabricate the smoke chamber... More reading at the Rumford site.
Did a little more cleaning inside the dome before taking the rest of the day off and learned something... I used a good bit of water while grinding and wire brushing parts of the interior. Well, a bunch of it pooled near the entrance and I wondered why I wasn't bright enough to include a drain in my plans.
Granted, the goal is to keep the oven dry, BUT, I'm sure I will get some water in/near the entrance in torrential down pours like we are having right now. A little drain in the side is good insurance to keep water from seeping back into the oven area...
So, I decided to fix that oversight. I removed the half bricks that are under the arch/smoke chamber then used a small angle grinder with masonry cut-off wheel and drill with masonry bit to make/cut/drill a channel through which that outer area can drain. Almost immediately the water level in the floor of the oven dropped.
I do still need to fill part of the cut that drifted into the red brick (will have to get some colorant and try to repair with colored mortar), but happy with the finished product. It will drain out the side under the hardibacker enclosure instead of pooling in that front area under the bricks...
Attached are two pics of the 'repair'/addition and one pic of the relatively clean oven floor with the template removed.
Granted, the goal is to keep the oven dry, BUT, I'm sure I will get some water in/near the entrance in torrential down pours like we are having right now. A little drain in the side is good insurance to keep water from seeping back into the oven area...
What I did was I pitched the entire landing to at least keep some water from entering the oven area. The arch also overhangs the landing by an inch. But hopefully the oven door will keep most water out during a torrential downpour which is rare here in L.A.
Local storms here generally track/blow in a direction that would carry some rain diagonally into the front of the outer arch. I expect the shop will protect from major water, but the drain is a bit of insurance... And, there will be an inner, if not outer door...
CB
CB
____________________
My 42" WFO/outdoor kitchen build thread:
Generally they will be about one half the cost of the cast throat (which is a marvel of casting, BTW, a really lovely piece of clay).
It is vital in a Rumford fireplace that the throat have the proper geometry. Unlike oven opening height (for example), the Rumford fireplace design rides the edge of what will work and what will not. It is a highly engineered design. The shallow depth, flat back, and tall opening do not leave much wriggle room. I diagnose a lot of fireplace problems, but they can usually be solved for "standard" fireplaces or modified Rumfords without teardowns or major rebuilds, but a true Rumford, while efficient if built correctly, is not forgiving of dimensional deviation, especially in the throat geometry.
Comment