Mark's 42" in MN

[AtTheLake]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

Pop the champagne!!!
The keystone is in and the dome is closed.
We are back at the lake this weekend and we finished the dome and are ready for the chimney. Dino i went your way with the vent. Used up some of my extra bricks. Can't post any pictures till I get back home.
All the reading of this forum really paid off and we were able to close the dome in three weekends.

Thanks for all the help Forno Bravo.

Mark

[Dino_Pizza]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

Mark,
SplatG has some good advice. Also, for me, I went with (what I think she referred to) with the anchor plate no bolts, no tap-cons, no caulking: see my pdf file on post 475 of my thread and this gallary of my arch vent transition and anchor plate:

https://picasaweb.google.com/Dino747/PizzaVentTransition#

and you'll get a good idea on how I did it. It was simple; used the materials you already have; allows for heat expansion and minor cracking of the mortar at the joints (which will happen anyways) and...does the job.

You're almost done. I think the vent transition areas is the most important part and you've learned some good skills building the dome so put them to good use and you'll be so happy at every pizza party you do.

-Cheers, Dino

[splatgirl]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

remember it's going to get sooty, too. You seem like the kind of guy who would want to be able to clean that off

[splatgirl]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

As much as I love your arch, I think you would get a better looking finished facade and a better working oven if you cover it up with a decorative finish/arch. Those bricks are going to get HOT, so IMO it's a bit of a safety issue as well. You definitely wouldn't want to be getting skin near them as you work the oven. And leaving them exposed as part of the facade forces the whole finished face pretty far back and close to the chimney, regardless of how you do the vent. I know people have left the firebrick exposed, but for your level of craftsmanship, I think it would end up looking unfinished. I'm also sketchy on how the hot hot of the superheated firerick arch will interface with the relatively cool facade materials you would be butting up to it with...

Just my .02, of course.

[AtTheLake]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

Thanks for the compliment on the arch. Sure was alot of cutting to do all the tapers. If I ever build another one I am buying the tapered bricks.
My first thought was to build upto flat around the vent, but now that the arch is built we think it would look nice to have as much firebrick as possible sticking out of the finished wall of the enclosure. I only have half a brick in front of the vent. If I build up with firebrick I would loose half of that. Our plan is a full enclosure with a stone or tile veneer. So the enclosure wall directly in front of the vent will be a minimum of 1" thick (1/2" durock &1/2" tile) plus I would imagine that I will want an inch of ceramic blanket between the wall and the vent.
I do like the idea of cutting a groove for the vent to sit in. It would probably be easier to seal than a flange.

[splatgirl]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

Your arch is gorgeous!
I brought my vent up and into a flat surface that I could set the metal anchor plate on. I used fire caulk and loosely set tapcons to secure it. I'm certain that joint isn't 100% air/smoke tight after repeated heat cycling, and I suspect firecaulk doesn't hold up to WFO temps, but it's on there and fine.
One idea that came to me later was to grind a channel into the edges of the bricks and fit the anchor plate flange into that. Those bricks would be mortarted onto the course below if that makes sense. That way you've secured the chimney flange permanently in place with a fairly leak tight connection while still allowing for movement vs. the risk of tapcons cracking the brick.

[AtTheLake]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

Well it warmed up a little and we had a pretty productive weekend.
Got the vent arches done and completed chains 4 thru 8. Ran out of firebrick so had to stop work on Sunday.
My only concern is how to convert the vent from firebrick to metal chimney.
My first thought was to continue the firebrick up to a point where I could have a level surface. But now I am thinking I should just make a conversion piece out of stainless steel and set it over the arched opening. Which will require some modification to existing brick work. (2 steps forward - 1 step back)

When attaching the metal to the firebrick, do you screw it done or just set it over the opening and use gasket material. Is there any type of high temp caulk that can be used? I worry about the screws expanding and cracking the firebrick.

[AtTheLake]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

Finally able to get back up to the lake. Took a couple weekends off to watch my son wrestle.
Thought I would get an early start cutting tapers for my arch, went out to my saw and there is ICE in the water tray. That's MN weather for you.

Dmun, I followed your advice and ground down the bricks instead of my wife and kids. I knew I would get good advice from this forum. Thanks.

Well, I better get back to cutting bricks before it gets too warm out. It's already almost 40 out.

Mark

[dmun]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

Don't grind down the wife and kids. Even if they are at the wrong angle.

[AtTheLake]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

Thanks Dino
Yes it will be more 'Archey'.
I mocked up the arch both at its current height and one brick higher.
My wife and kids voted for this height. One problem though, the angle is wrong so I either have to take them out or grind them down.

[Dino_Pizza]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

Mark,
The brickwork looks great. I like the angle you cut into the vent side-walls. I too bought the FB mortar mix because I felt like I owed them something but after the 3rd bag (this was 2 years back when they used small "Refmix" bags) I finished with classic home-brew and would readily recommend it after using both.
The water in your fireclay sand mix is fine. It dries completely with effect on the insulation board.

So, you're building a 42" oven (awesome) and your vent side walls are just over 2 bricks high. That should mean your opening arches will be, well more 'archey' to finish at the 11"-12" opening height. I don't think you can over-insulate so your plan is sound.

Should look really nice.

[AtTheLake]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

I know, I kind of boxed myself into a corner, but the roof of the outdoor kitchen is supported by the walls.
I plan on using a ceramic blanket covered with vermiculate.
I want to be able to use the oven all winter long. Well maybe not in January.

[Laurentius]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

I'm curious, why build the enclosure wall before completing the dome? Are you using ceramic blanket for insulation or fill with vermiculite?

[splatgirl]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

I've been a daily exerciser for ~25 years and I consider myself in pretty good shape, but I found that the physical aspect of the dome build was a bigger deal than the technical.
Get used to some sore hamstrings.
Small people will come in big handy. There is nothing fun about having to wiggle an adult size body face up into an enclosed space through an 18" wide opening. OTOH, kids will probably think that part is great.

[AtTheLake]

Re: Mark's 42" in MN

Here's a couple photos of this weekends progress.
As the most experienced mason on site I promoted myslef to leadman and put two of my sons to work.
I think the younger one will be just the right size for cleaning the mortar off inside of the dome.
I don't know if they'd admit it, but I think they have enjoyed it so far.