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I found a number of pin head sized voids in the mortar after cleaning the inside of the oven so I went in to patch them. Very simple but boy is that opening small for someone my size.
I had to take a flashlight in with me because not enough light came in when my middle (OK beer belly) got in the way.
One nice thing is you can see how well my 3 piece keyway turned out.
No problem I hope others can take advantage of this also, the idea came from another similar design presented on this site. So I cannot claim anything unique here.
BTW the angle of the arms is almost always 4-5 degrees but the slope of the plywood boards increases dramaticly as you go up in chains.
I was having a difficult time deciding how to tackle the last few chains and decided I would go all in...
The sharp V shapes were driving me crazy. So I decided that at chain 15 I would grind the bricks into a circular shape. That way bricks placed on top could be easily ground into an arc on both the top and the bottom.
This worked out extremely well as you can see from the photos.
The real beauty of this method is that I could use larger bricks. And not have as many lined up seams.
It wasn't that difficult with an abrasive grinding wheel on my 4 inch hand grinder to create the arcs. I was able to place the bricks side-by-side to get a nice continuous arc I think you'll agree.
The jig is Built on a 2 x 8 piece of lumber. I cut a groove about 1 inch wide in the center of the board to allow clearance for the blade and also allowing the angled tables to swing up without hitting each other. Each table has two hinges placed along the groove.
On the inside corner nearest the saw, I drilled a hole for the angle bars that are attached to the top of each table. The bolt that goes through the hole is snugged up tight so that the arms do not move freely. Because they are tight they stay in position easily. You may want to add a clamp at the end of the the angle bar to more firmly hold it in position.
I screwed shims to the 2 x 8 to position the table in a horizontal. To make up for the thickness of the hinges.
I put pieces of brick underneath the table on each side to elevate the table into the angle I want.
The last photo shows how I make the table the same angle on both sides, I just measure up from the board equidistant from the saw blade in my case 9 inches away and if the left side is elevated 2 inches, then I just make the right side elevated 2 inches at the same 9 inch distance from the saw blade.
It took less than an hour to make this table and it has saved me a great deal of time.
BTW the hinges look strange because they are from a folding door and not real standard. They were just something I had lying around.
I really like your build and your innovation. Do you have any pics of the jig for your saw? It sounds like what I am looking for as i begin to start cutting.
Gregg
I will post photos of the jig tomorrow as it is to late tonight to drag it out.
I really like your build and your innovation. Do you have any pics of the jig for your saw? It sounds like what I am looking for as i begin to start cutting.
Yes I used the fixed length IT to mark the brick insides to match the dome inside and the string was used to mark the angle of the sides I'd the brick. I marked the string where the outer dimension of the dome came to and was able to mark the back sloping angle quite easily.
I hope this makes sense.
Before laying the next brick up I would transfer the dimensions of the lower brick's top side to the bottom of the upper brick and that seemed to work quite well.
especially the graduated inward angles the closer the arch bricks go towards the middle. Indispensible tool(s)?
Sorry Chip. I should have been more clear on my question. Did you happen to use your IT's to help configure the interior lines of your inner arch? I used a plywood template to figure out the lower angle and an IT to figure out the radius.
Your multiple magnetic IT's are nothing short of brilliant. They illustrate a refreshing willingness to innovate and progress convention.
John
I just noticed the 'cap' you placed on the top of your arch form (metal/plastic?) on a prior pic. Damn, I wish I'd thought of that! And I had a spare 7' aluminum vertical blind just sitting there the whole time. Duh!
John
The cap on the inner arch form is a piece of thin sheet metal.
Yes Indespensible tools - if you look back at some of my photos in this post you will see them. They have magnetic heads and at the center of the oven is a 1.125 inch diameter ball bearing that has been sliced in half and then welded to a piece of sheet metal.
This configuration allows me to have two brick tools going at the same time and also be able to completely remove the tools should I want to for cleaning or other reasons.
The other two are a simple stick with magnets on both ends. I use this as a marking and brick support tool. The last IT is a magnet on the end of a string for marking and angle checking.
All quickly and easily latch on to the center ball and are very simple to remove with a light pull.
I was concerned about keeping the ball clean but since it is polished chrome it cleans up with a rag or sponge in an instant.
At about chain 7 I decided to cut down the size of one of the brick setters and remove the clamp as the extra material was making it difficult to tap the bricks int place.
Chip
I am very happy with my design for the tool.
Last edited by mrchipster; 08-18-2011, 06:19 AM.
Reason: spelling error fix
Your oven's coming along nicely. Very impressed with the bond you're maintaining by staggering your bricks. Yes, it does get more tedious the higher up you go.
I just noticed the 'cap' you placed on the top of your arch form (metal/plastic?) on a prior pic. Damn, I wish I'd thought of that! And I had a spare 7' aluminum vertical blind just sitting there the whole time. Duh!
Keep up the great work. I really like the way the inside of your transition came out, especially the graduated inward angles the closer the arch bricks go towards the middle. Indispensible tool(s)?
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