outdoor kitchen and oven base

[Campmaki]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Hello builders, well another fairly productive weekend. Insulated my 42" dome with 3" of ceramic blanket first thing Saturday morning. Then got on to the backup steel studs and cement/ vapor barrier. Decided it was time to fire up the baby. started with a small fire and put a little temperature gauge inside to keep an eye on. At one point it read 400 degrees, so I let it burn down a little and added a single piece of wood every so often. One thing I did notice was the blanket seemed to be smoking. I touched it and it was damp. Drawing the little bit of moisture out of the firebrick that is left. I think? My foundation and slab were poured last summer, so I believe I have very little moisture there. It is covered all the time unless I am working on it. I did get one little crack right in the center of the vent arch, and I think this happened because I ground out the joints and pointed them up last weekend. Nothing too major, just a crack.Got up this morning and temp read 225 degrees, with no door on the entrance to the oven. I like how this baby is already holding heat. Started another fire this morning. At one point I noticed the whole dome was soot covered except the center of the ceiling. Later in the afternoon I noticed, as can be seen in one of the pictures that the soot had disappeared from some of the back wall. Also less moisture/ dampness on the ceramic blanket. One concern I had is no longer that, my peel and stick Tremco vapor barrier. My concern was it could drool because of heat. It got warm to the touch and think some of it was actually the sun shining on the west wall. As far as my stainless steel flashing pan, the heat only traveled out a few inches. Once the thermal break, using some ceramic insulation is in place, the pan will do what it is intended to do. Here are a few pictures. I am hoping after the 4th of July weekend, I am done with the chimney. next weekend some more curing, I realize it should be done in progression, day after day but I am at the campground only on weekends.

[Campmaki]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Stone cutter, So let me try again. In my vent area, I installed a 3 sided flashing pan, see my previous posts and pictures. The pan goes from the thermal break I created at the oven entrance outward to the vent floors outer edge. I extended the pan under the vent sidewalls. When I installed the pan, I put a rich grout mixture under the pan to attain pitch outward. So right now I have just the pan in the vent area on the concrete slab with the semi circular vent arch sitting on the pan. I cut the first course of firebrick to get them back to level because the pan is pitched towards the outside. So at the inner pans edge which is the transition from oven dome to floor of vent, I have 4 1/2 in. {2 1/2 in firebrick plus 2 in ceramic floor insulation minus 1/2 in that the pan is raised up. I plan on putting granite slabs on the brick ledges I have built and this same granite will flow into the vent area as the floor. What would you put under the granite? The granite is 1 1/4 in. thick, so I have 2 3/4 inches that needs to be put under the granite. I do not want to put insulation under it, because it could get wet. Would you put fire brick under the granite? How important is it to have the vent floor insulated? It doesn't need to be , does it? Here are 2 pictures showing my flashing pan. One being a side view, the other a front view at the vent. Wayne

[stonecutter]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Stonecutter, so whats your opinion on my granite going all the way to the heat break? I put the stainless pan on a outward pitch,on top of the pan needs to be built up to accept 1 1/4 in thick granite.This will flush out with the dome floor. I am thinking about an inch thick piece of ceramic board as the heat break, 4 1/2 in. high. But what do you think I should use under the granite? Rips of fire brick? One thing I need to make sure is the stainless steel pan doesn't get over 155 degrees, this could be tough to do. At the outside edge of the pan is where the vapor barrier is attached. The pan is 16 in. deep. Give me your thoughts, Wayne, and thanks for the kind compliments on my work. All I can say if I hope the hell my vapor barrier doesn't end up in a black puddle.

I'm not sure what you mean exactly. How about a sketch?

[Campmaki]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Stonecutter, so whats your opinion on my granite going all the way to the heat break? I put the stainless pan on a outward pitch,on top of the pan needs to be built up to accept 1 1/4 in thick granite.This will flush out with the dome floor. I am thinking about an inch thick piece of ceramic board as the heat break, 4 1/2 in. high. But what do you think I should use under the granite? Rips of fire brick? One thing I need to make sure is the stainless steel pan doesn't get over 155 degrees, this could be tough to do. At the outside edge of the pan is where the vapor barrier is attached. The pan is 16 in. deep. Give me your thoughts, Wayne, and thanks for the kind compliments on my work. All I can say if I hope the hell my vapor barrier doesn't end up in a black puddle.

[stonecutter]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Looks great..nice and neat. You did good job on the joint work too.

[Campmaki]

Enclosure brick and bond

Finally my last post. Laid a rowlock course, all 4 sides. Followed that with a flemished bond course. These 2 courses each stepped out a half an inch. This will give me a 6 inch ledge on 3 sides once the granite slabs are set in place. The same granite will go across the oven side and into the vent floor, up to the back leg of the stainless pan, which I hope acts as a heat break. This ledge will be 8 in. deep. The brick bond on the wall is flemished and the joints are V jointed. The brick I am using are modular in size and are nice to lay because they are straight and true. Because of this I decided to use a sled runner on the bed joints. I like nice straight joints. Once I am up to the top of the stud wall the brick will step back to create another ledge.I will post more photos after next weekends work.

[Campmaki]

Steel stud and cement board enclousure

Went with structural steel studs, FREE, as my backup wall system. Coupled that with 1/2 in. cement board and Tremco moisture and air barrier. The barrier was applied after brushing on a solvent based primer. Hope I am not making a big bomb, but logic tells me everything with be OK, simply because the dome will be insulated with 3 in. of ceramic blanket and the system is outside the area where the heat is. Plus I am going to fill the rest of the box full of vermiculite.

[Campmaki]

Oven vent and chimney throat

Just a few photos of last weekends work. Included is a shot of the stainless flashing pan I installed under the vent/landing floor. It is 3 sided and was placed in a rich cement/sand mix and pitched outward to shed water. Also did a little grinding and rubbing of the "throat" brick to help with smoke flow.

[oasiscdm]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Yay another semi circle fared arch.

[Campmaki]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

After doing some searching, I found 8 x8 flues that I was told were that size ID. Decided to go that route but get to the supplier and they are only 6 1/2 x 6 1/2. I decided to go with an 8 x 12 which has an inside measurement of 5 3/4 x 9 3/4. This will work fine with a smooth throat and 4 feet of this size flue. It has a square in. area of a little over 56. Were as a true inside 8x8 would be 64 sq in.

Built a flared semi circular vent this Saturday. Got antsy and pulled the template later that night. Flue opening is 5 3/4 x 9 3/4. Did not put the flue in place because I did not want to chance the extra weight on top the fresh arch. I did light a few pieces of paper toweling to see the draw. Worked really well. This morning I set flue on top of throat and lit some more paper. The draft was even better. Pictures will follow next weekend, as I start to think about curing the oven.

[Campmaki]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

After doing some searching, I found 8 x8 flues that I was told were that size ID. Decided to go that route but get to the supplier and they are only 6 1/2 x 6 1/2. I decided to go with an 8 x 12 which has an inside measurement of 5 3/4 x 9 3/4. This will work fine with a smooth throat and 4 feet of this size flue. It has a square in. area of a little over 56. Were as a true inside 8x8 would be 64 sq in.

[oasiscdm]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Here here.....

[Greenman]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

The 8" is what you need.

[Novaslo]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

I was wondering the same question. For a 42" oven given the option of a 6" Stainless or an 8" go with the 8?

I will soon be there and need to start buying the parts.

Campmaki your dome is REALLY nice....great job.
I am envious of your arch. I could not cut the brick nor did I have precut. Working from a 10 inch saw would not allow the kind of precision cut I needed to pull off that arch.

You are so close to cooking. I am jealous haha.

[stonecutter]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

My square flu has dead spots , but they don't know that they are dead..............

My pompeii oven is 44". The ID of my chimney is approximately 7 1/2" X 7 1/2". There may be other factors at work Including, my oven entry, heighth of chimney, smoke chamber etc. But, she don't smoke..................unless I forget to open then damper .

Not really 'dead' in the sense that the corners aren't exhausting gases...just that they are not in the effective zone of the flue shape. Volume wise, that's where a taller chimney helps with draw. Obviously, you have enough height to create a nice draw. That, and your throat is big enough.