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You might need more perilite before its done. Never too much insulation, but how is your floor height coming out?
You can fill the honeycomb with portland/water slurry. If the holes are big, add some sand. Since it gets covered up, really no big deal.
Ok, we are proceeding on with the "House" gabled or squared, I don't know yet, but this means I'm also moving on with the rectangular pour for my insulating layer.
I pulled my top form off today and it is apparent I didn't do a very good job of working the edges and getting air bubbles out. Pretty upsetting, but I know it will be finished over when it's all said and done. Can I trowel some mortar over the edges to clean them up a bit and fill the pockets?
Dave, Lafayette Masonry hooked me up with two big bags of perlite. It's supposed to get below freezing tonight so I will pour tomorrow.
As far as the insulation layer, will 3 1/2" suffice or should I frame up a bit to 5"?
Last time I used metal studs was 15 years ago and I went with the light gauge. Medium should be fine, not a bunch of stress going on here. Maybe someone else who works with the stuff can chime in.
20 ga is probably enough and easier to cut. you can lower your spacing if you think you need more strength Those thicker ga are hard to cut and get the screws to penetrate-just harder to work.
Thanks fellas! What size metal studs are recommended for stone veneer? I could grab them now and lay out so I can drill ahead of time. Is 3 5/8" x 18ga too much or too little? Other options are 16ga. and 20ga.
I agree that both ways will work. But, I would go with option 2. Set all four corners. level the plate line, and custom cut each stud. There won't be but a hand full of studs between each corner on the sides and back. The front will be mostly custom cuts, anyway .
Edit: Dakzaag brings up another good point. The sooner that you drill the holes for those tapcons, the easier it will be.
Either way will work, I don't think the bond between the two layers of concrete is a big deal. You still have quite a bit of concrete in the second level to hold down the framing.
If you want to drill in some dowels, the concrete from the first pour is still pretty soft right now so it won't take much effort to drill in some rods. Gravity is a pretty reliable force.
You have to account for wind load on the building walls and roof. That is where your side thrust will come from. Even though it is only 3.5" thick, the second pour is still pretty hefty.
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