Dome

[Acoma]

Re: Dome

RT, I agree with patience throughout. I will be cutting each brick to the need, and shims to the need. When my time comes for building, and I get to the dome, I was considering going with a ply shaped for the dome radius. I believe that it will help with free flow building of the dome, and use of the shims. Thanks for the imput on cutting angle to the solder. Have you attempted breads yet, or just pizzas? Were you aware of the air races here this past week? 3 unfortunate casualties, lost to a great sport, dedicated racers.

[Les]

Re: Dome

RT - excellent post. I am building my entire entry way before the dome. You gave me the idea and I thank you!!! Makes a lot of sense due to the "bleeding" we have seen. I will post the pics, pass or fail. I'm not going with a soldier coarse, just halves from beginning to end. I wanted the "perfect dome". I will use 1/4 inch shims for the first coarse, to be followed by 1/2 inch shims for the rest of the dome. What I am finding is that it doesn't matter how good your plan is, how accurate you can cut a brick, the tolerances WILL bite you in the ass. (just found that out tonight) At some point, you need to accommodate the error. I was hoping that I could push it all to the entry way where nobody would see it. I now think that "divide and conquer" is a better approach. Your statement of "cut each brick to fit" is absolutely right on.

Les...

[RTflorida]

Re: Dome

Angle cutting the soldier (1st course) is a good idea to get your angle started (thats what i did), but will not eliminate the gaps on the outside edges between courses.....only reduce them.
One thing to keep in mind - Do not cut too severe an angle on that soldier course, there are outward thrust issues that come into play that could cause your oven to collapse or require an outside buttrice to hold it in place.
I'm not an engineer or expert in the field, so I don't have specific calculations to offer. I simply cut them at an angle that didn't look to severe, and allowed 1/8" - 1/4" gaps on all courses. Really helps to play around on a sheet of plywood or your garage floor doing mockups until you get all the dimensions the way you want them. OR if your into the brain strain thing or have a good CAD program...work out all the angles/dimensions and such on paper/computer. I prefered basic math/geometry and a little experimenting with my wet saw. Result - a stable oven (to this point - 5 months) with no mortar joints in excess of 1/4" on the outside bwtween courses; side to side - none over 1/8" (I cut each brick to fit).

RT

[Acoma]

Re: Dome

Ryan, I had a conversation w/ Les of Carson City, whom is doing the same use of shims. After the conversation, I will also use shims to temporaraly set angle to the bricks. Thanks for your feedback.

[Ryan]

Dome

I made the shims but did not use them on the first course. I angled the half brick as needed and then put in the mortar. It took a bit longer as each brick was perfectly set but it made sense. Then I took the shim and placed it next to the bricks and the gap was a match. My forearms were killing me after 3 hours of work! I am not a mason by trade and this is all new to me. I'd be lost without the Forno Bravo!

Thanks,

Ryan

[Acoma]

Re: Dome

I am curious about the use of shims for angling. Wouldn't the base brick upright with correct ange cut to set up dome enclosure be most important? This way you mortar the backs, and match up the edges of interior bricks. Looking at many ovens built on this forum, I must say that the Versachi 42" is very impressive as an example of work on a dome.

[Ken524]

Re: Dome

Sorry to hear you were robbed for $98 fo Heatstop. Only $55 here in FL.....and we have few ovens or fireplaces as compared to everywhere else.
RT

Heatstop = $80/bag in Louisville, KY. I found only 1 place that would order it for me (Boral Brick). The 2 big refractory places in town kept trying to sell me buckets of the wet stuff.

[RTflorida]

Re: Dome

Sorry to hear you were robbed for $98 fo Heatstop. Only $55 here in FL.....and we have few ovens or fireplaces as compared to everywhere else.

RT

[oventhusiast]

Re: Dome

Hi Ryan,
I think fire clay is different than Heat Stop. I just bought a 25 pound bag of fire clay for $16.oo. The 50 pound bag of Heat Stop goes for $52.00 here in Boston! (I thought that was outrageous!) Anyway I hope you set the floor straight because you won't be able to move it when the heat stop cures!
Best of luck with the 'build'!
post photos!!!
Rick

[Ken524]

Re: Dome

I am not sure I am doing this 100% right but it looks good and seems solid so far.

I don't think there is a "100% right" with these ovens.

Ken

[Ryan]

Re: Dome

I have the first course set on the oven floor. The vermeculite layer wasn't as level as I would have liked so I put the floor on a layer of Fire Clay (Heat Stop). These bags are $98 so if I had to do it over I would have gone with the super isol boards.

The first course is a full brick in height as I am building the napolitano style oven. I did not cut the bricks to set the angle. I will use shims as I start the next courses. I am not sure I am doing this 100% right but it looks good and seems solid so far.

Thanks,

Ryan

[oventhusiast]

Re: Dome

Hey Ryan,
I'm right behind you! How are you starting the first ring? I'd like to stand my first course on end with an angled cut at the top. Good luck on the build!

Anyone else have a suggestion on starting the first ring? It's going next to the floor not on top of it but I'm not sure as to the best way to start. Is mortaring it to the vermiculite base a waste of time or a must do? I want to make sure it's plenty strong to hold the rest of the dome.
Best to all,
Rick

[JoeT62]

Re: Dome

Congratulations! You are on your way!

[Ryan]

I am starting the dome. I got the first course laid out tonight. I will start adding photos in the next few days. The weather has been good and I hope to finish the dome this weekend. Things are finally coming together.