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David - is it recommended to taper the flue as you have done? Is there a known ratio between the top and bottom for the best draw? And one last bothering question, what adhesive did you use?
I first used refractory mortar to attach the two halves of the refractory flue tile funnel together:
I found the answer - I just didn't think that mortar was the magic bullet for this application. I thought there was some kind of magic mouse milk that would be better.
David - is it recommended to taper the flue as you have done? Is there a known ratio between the top and bottom for the best draw? And one last bothering question, what adhesive did you use?
The magic ratio for the top/bottom of the flue was the size of a single 8 by 12 inch flue tile cut on the bias so that that it mated with the 8 by 8 flue section at the top, and was as large as possible at the bottom.
And yes, you have figured out that it's just adhered with heat-stop. Don't move it until it's had at least 24 hours to set up.
The flue tile is MUCH harder to cut than fire brick. It mostly doesn't fit under the wet saw, so it has to be cut with the diamond blade in the angle grinder. I might consider building a flue funnel from fire brick splits if I did it again. I get a GREAT draw, but of course I have a good 16 feet of flue above my oven. With that much flue, It would probably draw with no taper at all.
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