Bill,
I think that what is Russell is alluding to is that (since it is not made from an "old surfboard") describing the door as "leftover" "cutoff" or "scrap" surfboard material, will get you more "points" from us Scroungers .
Your storm door is a real work of art!
On any exterior build, I think that one thing that will also help is designing the storm door to fit into a recess. Many use a decorative brick to face their ovens. Leaving a reveal, like I described above, makes a great receptacle for a storm door. The door, being in a recess will help shed a lot of that windblown water away from the entry. You don't have much room left in front of your arch but, there may be enough room to do a 2" face. Below, I have attached a pic where I did a 3 1/2", but beveled the brick back to about 2" for insulation and a heat break. I think that you would have enough room to do a 2" face, as long as you turned the corner, follow the curve of your arch, and interlocked the brick for stability. Taking the clay face brick back to the dome render and sealing that joint will also help shed water. Fire brick are more porous than regular clay brick and will soak up lots of water.
I think that what is Russell is alluding to is that (since it is not made from an "old surfboard") describing the door as "leftover" "cutoff" or "scrap" surfboard material, will get you more "points" from us Scroungers .
Your storm door is a real work of art!
On any exterior build, I think that one thing that will also help is designing the storm door to fit into a recess. Many use a decorative brick to face their ovens. Leaving a reveal, like I described above, makes a great receptacle for a storm door. The door, being in a recess will help shed a lot of that windblown water away from the entry. You don't have much room left in front of your arch but, there may be enough room to do a 2" face. Below, I have attached a pic where I did a 3 1/2", but beveled the brick back to about 2" for insulation and a heat break. I think that you would have enough room to do a 2" face, as long as you turned the corner, follow the curve of your arch, and interlocked the brick for stability. Taking the clay face brick back to the dome render and sealing that joint will also help shed water. Fire brick are more porous than regular clay brick and will soak up lots of water.
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