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  • DaveHI
    replied
    I haven't bought it yet but I'll probably just order on Amazon or Ace or some other website.
    I live in South Carlsbad just west of I-5. I have about 1/2 roll of 2000F insulation blanket.

    think it was this one:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAFE-Non-Cer...RgqdpDQY-n5QFA

    I bought the $10 more one rated for higher temp for the first 2 layers and saved $10 (for some unknown reason) for the last layer.

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  • justsan
    replied
    On deck is a custom Facade by Roberta Nieto - NietoArt.com

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  • justsan
    replied

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  • justsan
    replied
    Here's some updated pics...

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  • justsan
    replied
    Originally posted by DaveHI View Post
    If you need half a roll of insulation blanket you're welcome to the leftover piece I have. Body safe material. Might not be worth the drive from Poway in gasoline though.
    Hey DaveHI - thanks so much - I'm not exactly sure where you are, but I might actually end up taking you up on that offer...I think i'll be a little short, but I'll know for sure after this weekend.

    BTW, where did yo pick up the Rutland grey goop here in SD?

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  • DaveHI
    replied
    My front arch did the same when I fired it hard the first time. Right at the keystone. It went in last obviously, and I only let it set for 3-4 days. May also be getting opened by diff expansion from the metal vent plate I set directly to the arch. C'est la vie. It isn't changing much so I'll just patch it with the Rutland grey goop and rub some ash on it.

    If you need half a roll of insulation blanket you're welcome to the leftover piece I have. Body safe material. Might not be worth the drive from Poway in gasoline though.

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  • justsan
    replied
    Originally posted by DaveHI View Post
    ...Personally, I'd just grind it out a little and patch the crack with a tube of furnace mortar goop.
    If it was the front arch and you could see it, might feel differently, but the rear arch gets covered in grime anyway.
    Thanks so much for the feed back.

    This is essentially what i decided to do and it worked great...I pulled out as much lose dried mortar as possible and ground down the inside of the brick a bit, soaked in water, then back filled with real wet mortar. I felt good doing that bc half of the brick was locked in...I could put my full weight on the arch and it didn't flex at all.

    Making some good progress, hoping to be done with the dome this week!

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  • DaveHI
    replied
    I had a couple of nasty joints in my current build that I had to rip out (over wedged and ended up with a sawtooth -- if you've done it, you know what I mean). If you take a recip saw and get a masonry blade, you can slice out the mortar and then they pop right out with a hammer/chisel. In an arch -- could be a disaster though. Personally, I'd just grind it out a little and patch the crack with a tube of furnace mortar goop.
    If it was the front arch and you could see it, might feel differently, but the rear arch gets covered in grime anyway.
    I'm in Carlsbad now and just about to build my front arch.

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  • deejayoh
    replied
    I don't know about a grinder. When the mortar is still kind of green, sometimes you can knock them out pretty clean with a cold chisel. The trick will be doing it without disturbing the rest of the arch. But if you can get it out, that approach should work.

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  • justsan
    replied
    Originally posted by deejayoh View Post
    ...If it separated like that, then the mortar didn't adhere - you really can't patch it. I hate to say it, but I would reset that brick, at least
    Well that sucks, lol. It seems pretty solid though. Should I just use my grinder and cut / grind out the mortar and slap a new brick and mortar in there that way?

    Thanks.

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  • deejayoh
    replied
    If it separated like that, then the mortar didn't adhere - you really can't patch it. I hate to say it, but I would reset that brick, at least

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  • justsan
    replied
    Alright - it's been a week since I did the arch - I don't think it turned out that great but hey, it's standing on it's own!

    I don't think I soaked one of the arch bricks enough and the next day there was a crack between the mortar and the brick (see pic 4). I'm thinking I'll just fill it with mortar, but any suggestions on what to do with that crack would be great.

    I also started Row 7. Tonight I'm going to tie in rows 5 and 6 into the arch and work on completing row 7, exciting stuff!!

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    This is what the tapered arch bricks will look like. They are cut from full bricks not half bricks. Each one is slightly different so don't cut all the same. Start with the top dead center brick using your IT and work left and right of the TDC brick using your IT to mark and scribe.

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  • Larry P
    replied
    I really debated between those tan bricks (my brickyard called them taupe) and the "natural". I bought several of each and stacked them up to think about it. I ended up going with the natural but hid some tan bricks in places you can't see. I don't believe it makes a difference, just aesthetics, but nice to see an oven come together with that color.

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  • justsan
    replied
    Originally posted by Larry P View Post
    That's looking good. Just make sure the arch extends far enough back into the dome to support the upper courses. It's a classic mistake that people don't account enough for the curvature of the dome, and find their arch doesn't extend far back enough as the dome starts curving away from the entry, and you end up with a teardrop shaped oven. You can use your IT to figure how how far back you need to go.

    Are those the Taupe-colored HC Muddox firebricks?
    Nice – Thank you for the tip…I would have definitely screwed that up.

    I attached a picture of the tag on the pallet – they are Muddox, but I guess they are called Tan.


    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    Here is a pic (from Mr. Chipster's build) showing how to use an IT to do a tapered inner arch like you are doing. Highly recommend this route.
    Really appreciate the picture!
    Seeing that makes sense, the IT needs to be on the inside edge just like I was building the rest of the rows.

    Thanks fellas.

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