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42 inch WFO build in Utah

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Nate,

    Congrats, now the fun starts and the never ending finishing of the oven. Seems that once the oven is working the finish work takes second fiddle.

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  • natetanr
    replied
    Pizza was a success!

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  • LeeBird
    replied
    From what I understand about Dryvit it does not tolerate over-troweling. I plan on doing an “old world” texture as I call it for lack of better terms, using multiple coats, skips, knockdowns, burnishes and whatever feels good at the time. Otherwise, if I were doing a standard sand finish or a single knockdown, I would use the Dryvit.
    Yours looks great. I wouldn’t worry about cracks now. Maybe address some bigger, or obvious ones down the road.
    Thanks for the compliments, mine went up fast as well, far from perfect.

    Lee

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  • natetanr
    replied
    Thanks LeeBird for the info. Im probably moving too quick. You and Russel have the crafsmanship down, im embarased to share my pics as the rush job shows. I have some cracks in my entry arch that happened while stacking and mortaring that im not happy about. Might try digging out the mortar joint and mortaring it in place. Im curious why you dont think Dryvit will work for you.

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  • LeeBird
    replied
    Nate, strong work! I've been keeping track of your build, you're moving pretty quick.

    Our ovens are pretty similar, we must have the same influences. I used a stucco mix I found at the Ogden Home Depot (not available at Layton or Centerville) They have two choices side by side. The one I chose is made by Ash Grove, 80 Lbs, pre-mix stucco, fiber reinforced. i used it for my scratch coat and brown coat. I'm not going to use it for my top/finish coat.

    I'm not sure if you are familiar with stucco application here in Utah compared to warmer climates but the top coats you see here are not a cementitious stucco , they are an elastomeric type. I've found a product locally called "Dryvit" (elastomeric) at Swanson Building Materials in West Haven comes in many colors. I'm not going to use it. I'm going to take my chances with a traditional cement based stucco (which involves a road trip south). I'm no stranger to applying cement based products both horizontally and vertically and I don't think the elastomeric stuff is going to do what I want to do. If you are looking to do a texture similar to every other house in Northern Utah Dryvit is what the local industry uses.

    There has been some chatter about using an elastomeric and trapping moisture, I don't have the answers, maybe some of the pros here can help.

    Lee

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  • natetanr
    replied
    Pcrete later on the igloo was harder to make smooth then I thought. I tried growling and tapping but finally resorting to hand packing it on. First lift I used forms. What do u use for stucco? Couldn’t find any stucco at Home Depot other then a stucco patch mix.

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  • natetanr
    replied
    Started curing fires this weekend. Two hot halogen lights followed by charcoal and smallest fires I could run. Today kept fire around 320 to 350. Cooked my first meal. Planning on pizza Friday.

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  • natetanr
    replied
    Was running two halogen work lights in the dome and it was getting around 220 F but thought it would probably be best to give the mortar on the keystone some time to cure before drying it out to much so I turned them off yesterday. Fiberglass gasket should be delivered today so I can move forward with the entry and chimney transition. Used a hammer drill and concrete screws to secure the chicken wire.

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  • natetanr
    replied
    Friday night I got my dome closed up then Saturday morning I wrapped the CF blanket over the dome and then placed chicken wire over that. I also cut out L shaped bricks for the entry tunnel that I will use fiberglass rope gasket for thermal break. I dry fit the entry arch and have a question about mortaring. My diamond blade is nearly useless now and I dont want to purchase another one so I dont think I will taper my entry brick for the entry arch. Instead I will have wedges of mortar rather then a consistent mortar gap. Can I dry fit the entry arch then tuck mortar with the brick in place or am I asking for problems doing it this way? Seems I can keep the brick angles more evenly spaced by leaving it all assembled with some little wood wedges to keep it all uniform. If I take all the brick apart and then mortar and place each separately I dont think I can get it to turn out as clean and even.
    Attached Files

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  • natetanr
    replied
    waiting for my last course of mortar to set and shaping my keystone to fit. Igloo should be complete soon. Used a piece of soft cardboard and a crayon to transfer the shape of the opening to the firebrick.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    I think most fiberglass rope is rated to 1000 F and is probably less expensive than ceramic fiber rope, so plenty good for where you would be placing it. I used ceramic fiber just because I had it available. Thermal K values are similar. Your choice as long as temperature rating is high enough.
    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 10-22-2018, 03:44 PM.

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  • natetanr
    replied
    Fiberglass rope vs. Ceramic Fiber rope for thermal break? Is ceramic a better insulator? I'm looking at ordering from amazon around 1/2 inch wide and doing an L shaped brick for my tunnel to entry connection.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    I would say you make some progress. Took me several weeks or months to get my dome to this point.

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  • natetanr
    replied
    Made some good progress despite breaking my IT and running out of sand. Took off work Thursday and Friday so had a good 3 days of building. Made it past the entry

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Actually that is okay and even better for the first course, then the second course seam extends below the surface of the floor.eliminating the chance of the peel sliding into the joint between the dome and the floor. Ideally it would be best to keep like bricks in one area rather than intermix, ie floor area, vent area, dome area. High duty bricks typically > 55% Alumina do not expand that same a low duty bricks so intermixing could cause some potential stresses. At our cooking temps does it matter, don't know.

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