Oven Build in Spring

[cbailey]

I'm building a 36" Pompeii as part of an outdoor kitchen. Although this is my first post, I've been studying the fabulous builds that are accessible due to this Forum. Thank you FB for this resource.

Attached are a few photos describing my progress to date. I altered the stand slightly to have wood storage on both sides. I'm installing a NG fire place nearby, and the illusion of a wood fireplace is enhanced by nearby wood storage. It also allowed me to install a course of cinderblock across the stand, basically dividing the space in half, and providing solid support directly below the oven.

I'm at the point of laying out the brick for the oven floor, and figuring out what I want to do with the inner arch, outer arch and overall landing area dimensions. What do you all recommend as an ideal landing area depth, measured from the dome side face of the inner arch?

[UtahBeehiver]

I moved your original post to Pompeii Oven Construction, this is the most active thread and you will get more response from members here.

[cbailey]

Thank you Russell. Too bad about our Utes.

[cbailey]

Russell,

The answer to this question will address many questions I am now facing. I hope you might remember...what is the length of your cut arch brick on the far left from point to back of the brick?

Cory

[UtahBeehiver]

This can only be determined with an IT or equivalent when the arch bricks are in place. Attached is a pdf that will explain this concept. Taper Arch Help.pdf

[cbailey]

I'm ready to lay the floor brick on top of the CaSi insulating board. I've read in numerous builds to mix a 50/50 "slurry" of sand and fireclay and trowel on to CaSi board to level the floor brick. I've also read that CaSi and water are not a good combination. So, is it better to use the sand and fireclay mix dry as a leveling bed?

[UtahBeehiver]

If your CaSi sits flat on the hearth no need for 50/50 slurry which is really only a leveling agent unless your bricks are inconsistent in thickness. The reason for a peanut butter consistency mix installed with a notched trowel is so it does not move around vs a dry mix.

[cbailey]

I don't need to level the insulation. I have 2 inch "Ceramic Fiberboard" rated at 2300 degrees that lays perfectly flat. However, I need to level the firebrick floor. I've read in some threads that water and CaSi are not compatible. Several questions. 1. Is ceramic fiberboard the same as CaSi? 2. If it is the same, is it OK to use a slurry?

Much appreciation.

[UtahBeehiver]

1. Not necessarily, could be AlSi but similar in characteristics. If CaSi lays flat, are the fire bricks not consistent in height? A small amount of irregularity can be taken care of after the floor is laid with a angle grinder, just knocking off the edges. Use dry if you are concerned, water issues are when the CaSi get saturated.

[cbailey]

Great advice. The firebrick is not uniform. It has a brand name on a raised stamp on about 25% of the bricks. I'll grind those off. If it lays generally flat I'll take your advice to grind the edges rather than use the slurry.

[cbailey]

Laying out the floor in the garage. Hope to move outside this weekend.

[cbailey]

I'm re-thinking the floor. Currently I have small triangular bricks filling the space between the landing bricks and the herringbone pattern of the oven floor. I'm thinking that those small triangular bricks would be subject to a lot of wear over time. Basically, they are a quarter of a brick. If you cut a brick in half (leaving a 4.5" x 4.5" block) and then cut that block on the diagonal. Would it be better to cut the same triangle off a full size brick? What would leave a approximately a 3/4 size brick with a diagonal cut on the end that abuts with the landing brick. See the attached photos. I've cut cardboard to represent the bricks as they are currently, and proposed. Am I OK with the smaller triangle bricks? Or, should I change?

[SableSprings]

Keeping small pieces out of the floor is a smart move. Several years ago it was suggested that the herringbone pattern was started just after the landing bricks by cutting the small projecting corners. You appear to have several half-bricks up front and your cardboard template looks like you will have several small brick pieces at the opening. Take out the half bricks (4 on the left side) and replace them with full length bricks. Draw & cut straight across to give yourself a "solid" line that can butt against the landing bricks. It's better to shorten your entry or lengthen your landing to maximize the brick lengths for the herringbone (IMHO). I have the smaller herringbone pieces up front and although they have not caused me any problems over the years, I do wish I'd had the advice to maximize brick lengths up front.

[cbailey]

Thanks Mike!

[JRPizza]

I could avoid having small pieces around the periphery of my floor as I wanted it to be round and not have excess brick projecting out from under the dome, but I found a way to eliminate them at the entrance to the oven. Check out the pictures at the attached link in posts #8 and 11.
https://community.fornobravo.com/for...379#post380379