Oven Build in Spring

[cbailey]

Completed course 9 over the weekend. Getting pretty steep, but the clamps worked well. I had to hold the brick in place for a few minutes with the IT before carefully replacing the IT with a clamp.

Edit: You probably noticed, but I transition to 1/3 bricks in the 9th course.

I’ve include several photos of construction of course 8 and 9.

[cbailey]

Taking the lead from Utah Beehiver and Gulf (who credits Karangi Dude) I’ve taken out the IT and replaced with a platform. I have an old 5 ton hydraulic jack. I created a platform that provides a solid base. No wiggle room. I cut the platform to just catch about ½ inch of the brick. I didn’t want to extend to, or under, course 9. I don’t want to dislodge work I’ve already completed.

[Karangi Dude]

Hey Cory,

Nice looking oven you are building, and the use of those clamps (brackets) is a good idea I have used similar myself on some of the consulting builds that I have done.
The platform on the jack works well, as you go to the next course you will need to cut the platform disc down to suit see, https://community.fornobravo.com/for...324#post155324
Cheers Doug

[cbailey]

Hey Doug,

Thanks for the guidance. I really appreciate it. I hadn't thought of setting brick with the IT before positioning the disc.

Cory

[Chach]

Looks great!

[JRPizza]

I guess I got lucky in that I was able to find a consistency of mortar where I just buttered up my bricks and pressed them into place with the IT. Was able to do my build without a platform or clamps.

[SableSprings]

Cory, another idea to possibly help is to fill some plastic bags with sand and put them on top of your platform. Next, spread some damp sand over the top to imitate the inner dome arch. This allows you to set the bricks in place with the sand supporting them. It goes faster and you have a lot less sand to clear out when you are done. Be aware that once the keystone is set, your dome will be very stable. You can remove the sand & platform pretty quickly to clean up any mortar on that inside upper dome.

Here's a link to the pictures of my build using this technique...also notice that I just used some bricks to support the platform and a piece of Styrofoam to better conform to the opening.

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...022#post387022

[cbailey]

Thanks Chach! Your outdoor kitchen look fabulous. I'm looking forward to following your oven build when you thaw out this spring. Did you get above zero today? Stay warm.

[cbailey]

JR,

I'm sure you're right. The weather has been variable here. Last weekend the mornings were bouncing around freezing, and the mortar was not setting as quickly. The devil on my left shoulder was telling me all would be OK. That the mortar would set and hold as I worked through the chain. The angel on my right shoulder told me I was a dumb a@$ for listening (I have a vulgar angel). So, due to an abundance of caution, and hating to do anything over, I opted for the brackets.

I'm sure that if I was working in a warm, humid, spring day that the mortar would set more quickly. Being a novice I just didn't know.


Mike,

Thanks for the tip. I've seen sand forms before, but not in the limited way you made it work. It's a great option to have, if plan B doesn't work out.

Cory

[cbailey]

Made some good progress this weekend. I hope to complete the dome before Superbowl. Course 9 and 10 were 1/3 blocks. Course 11 and 12 were 1/4 blocks. I was hoping to be able to fashion a keystone after course 11, but the distance was too great, 5 3/4 inches. So, a course 12. Like Gulf I shaved down the bricks on course 12 to (in my case) 2 inches, which allowed for a proper keystone. Also heeding Gulf warning, I cut a hole in the disc for 11 and 12 for excess mortar when setting the keystone

I have a question for the cumulative brain trust of the Forum, Gulf, Karangi Dude, Utahbeehiver, etc.,for an opinion and guidance. After mortaring in course 10 as usual, should I dry fit 11 and 12 and back fill with mortar? Or mortar each in place?

Light at the end of the tunnel, and I don't think it's a train!

Cory

[UtahBeehiver]

In my pics, I originally started with a plywood disk but ended up abandoning the idea for mortaring bricks in place because of the following reasons, first, with the disk in place I could not see the joints and to ensure that the joints would stagger, just cause the look good on the exterior did not mean they work good on the interior, second, with the disk in place, I could not clean the joints or confirm that I had a full mortar joint either. The last few course I resorted to a simple notched stick to hold the brick until set then did another one, etc, but it was a slow process. BTW, your dry fit bricks look nice and uniform.

[cbailey]

I remember reading that in your build, and the narrow IT variation you created. Thank you for your help.

Cory

[JRPizza]

I'd recommend mortaring in place - it's your best chance to get uniform fill (I think). If your bricks are relatively dry and your mortar a little wet you should be able to press and hold and maybe not even need to support the bricks while they cure.

[cbailey]

Thank you JR. I'm leaning that way. I think it was Les in Carson City that had an incredibly tight build, but back filled with a mortar bag for the horizontal spaces between courses (there were no vertical spaces, his build was tight!).

I'm also appreciate Russell's concern regarding not being able to see the mortar joints.

Cory

[Gulf]

Hi Cory,

I'm sorry about the late reply. I'm not sure how far along you are on this, so my reply may be all for naught. But, here goes.

First of all, relax. You've got this. Your cuts have all been made and have been dry fitted.

I agree with mortaring in place to a degree. The disc (with the precuts) allowed me to quickly place each brick. When doing that, I made sure that the lower portion of the dome brick were complete with mortar and had no voids. There sometimes would be a void near the top once the brick was pressed into place. I disregarded the void and concentrated on placing another brick to complete the course. The goal is to have no voids on the inside of the dome. The disc allows for a quick placement with not having to place a stick or hold each brick into place for a few seconds. Seconds count when laying brick imo. By now, you probably have noticed just how fast mortar can go from the "peanut butter" to "cold modeling clay" consistency. If you can't complete the dome in one session, finish that course, point the outside, drop the platform, and go inside to clean up. Drink a beer, some sweet tea, or the beverage of your choice, and come back refreshed on the next session .

I hope that this helps.