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36" Pompeii Dome - Thailand

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  • #16
    OK many thanks for the input guys, will continue searching for an appropriate machine, hard going as the stores are currently closed.
    My Build:

    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...and#post423032

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    • #17
      Would this machine do the job? It's being marketed as a Tile Saw but Google searches seem to suggest that it will cut bricks too.

      Apologies for these trivial questions.
      My Build:

      https://community.fornobravo.com/for...and#post423032

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
        TxGr bought a wet bridge saw at a store in Thailand so check his post out. A wet saw is your safest and best bet.
        Thanks, I did see TxGr's post but it was mentioned that his was had limitations, which he later confirmed as his build progressed.

        I'm able to order a Tile Saw (picture uploaded), I'm hoping that this would be a good machine for the task at hand?
        My Build:

        https://community.fornobravo.com/for...and#post423032

        Comment


        • #19
          This is better than a bridge saw but the depth of the cut is limited by how large the diameter of the blade is. I found that a 10" will do almost all the cuts necessary (it might require cutting from both sides), 12" is best but also more costly. Either case, wet saw is your best and safest bet. That said, if budget is really a deciding factor, I have seen some adequate builds done with a brick chisel and hammer, not the prettiest but certainly functional.
          Russell
          Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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          • #20
            I've had a big problem buying a wet saw as advised. Bottom line is that I would need import one costing around $1,200 including shipping and customs charges. Obviously this is a non-starter. So unfortunately against the advice here I have purchased a chop saw with a vacuum attachment to capture as much of the brick dust as possible. Just waiting on a couple of masonry blades to fit the saw and a quality respirator (import only - total cost $206!!).

            So in the mean time I have been busy with my build and have dry laid the oven floor. Also started to work on the IT - I wanted to follow jcg31's IT design but with the hardware stores closed it will be difficult getting the right pieces together. My go to guy for all things technically beyond my scope on this project has managed to pick through my building sight and created an adjustable IT with a pivot from the foundation of a caster wheel. The IT is still in its development phases but on first impressions it seems that this makeshift design might just work.

            A couple of questions on the IT:

            1) It is recommended to make the IT adjustable - What are the reasons for this?

            2) My inner-oven diameter is 36" - What kind of adjustment space will be required ( +/- 18")


            Many thanks as always.

            Danny.


            My Build:

            https://community.fornobravo.com/for...and#post423032

            Comment


            • #21
              One critical design item on the IT which you need to address. The centerline of the IT square tubing that attaches to the end "L" bracket need to align with the horizontal center of the brick. IE if the brick is 2.5" thick then the centerline of the tubing needs to intersect the brick at 1.25". This is noted in JCP31's design as well. The reason is then the face of the brick will be perdendicular to the center point of to floor. If you don't then the errors in the brick face are cumulative as each course goes up. It is ideal to have the pivot point on the other end as close to the floor as possible other wise the dome shape starts to skew, IE floor radius is 18" dome diameter will be 18" plus the distance of the pivot point off the floor, not a deal killer just some to be aware of and one of the reasons the IT needs to be adjustable. There are a number a variables that makes an adjustable IT valuable, just do it, you will be glad.
              Russell
              Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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              • #22
                And adding to Utah's advice you can also note that the castor wheel pivot isn't pivoting off the exact center of the castor, but a couple cms to the side. It's not a disaster but will influence the hemispherical shape as you move up in rows. If you want to get closer to the true center you can grind off the side piece of the castor frame so it won't interfere with the IT and then drill a hole through the remaining framing of the castor wheel housing just above the center pivot point. It is definitely possible to do, but you'd have to fiddle a bit to ensure the IT stick itself is still movable in new position like that. If that makes sense...
                Last edited by Yokosuka dweller; 04-03-2020, 12:03 AM. Reason: poetry
                My build: https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ress-of-buildi

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                • #23
                  Yokosuka dweller and UtahBeehiver, points fully taken onboard and to my understanding of what you were saying have been implemented in our ITmk2 design.

                  It took a long time to get to this stage today so hoping the attached pics seem to make sense to you guys?
                  My Build:

                  https://community.fornobravo.com/for...and#post423032

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Two things come to mind looking at your pic's. You will need a narrower angle piece sometime during your build as the dome gets smaller in circumference and the bricks get narrower (if you decide to bevel and or avoid aligning vertical joints). It also looks like you may need to watch your angle bracket to make sure it does not loosen and fail to keep the bricks in proper orientation. Lots of us use metal for the angle which may hold up to abuse better than the wood you have chosen.

                    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...141#post381141
                    My build thread
                    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...h-corner-build

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I can tell you that I started with an all wood 'angle piece' and switched to one made of metal before I laid a single brick.
                      Found a construction tie at my local building supply that worked nicely.
                      I also second JR's comment that the angle piece needs to be narrower than the brick being laid.
                      I also second Russel's comment about the pivot point of the IT being raised from the floor using a castor.. I also started with a modified castor thinking it was the coolest idea ever but switched to a hinge after realizing the issue with the vertical diameter being different from the horizontal diameter.
                      Here's my construction brace angle piece, my hinge pivot and the trimmed down angle piece to accommodate the narrower bricks at the top of the dome.

                      Also looking at one of your photo's I think you may be considering a full upright brick for your first course. I'm not experienced enough to advise on that but do some reading/searching in the forum on the first course.

                      Just throwing out some ideas. Good luck!

                      - George

                      My Build
                      https://community.fornobravo.com/for...mente-ca-build

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Much better, Click image for larger version

Name:	53G IT Mod 8.10.12.JPG
Views:	314
Size:	588.8 KB
ID:	420572 but JR and Mongo are right about metal angle and width. I had two differ widths like Mongo.
                        Russell
                        Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by JRPizza View Post
                          Two things come to mind looking at your pic's. You will need a narrower angle piece sometime during your build as the dome gets smaller in circumference and the bricks get narrower (if you decide to bevel and or avoid aligning vertical joints). It also looks like you may need to watch your angle bracket to make sure it does not loosen and fail to keep the bricks in proper orientation. Lots of us use metal for the angle which may hold up to abuse better than the wood you have chosen.

                          https://community.fornobravo.com/for...141#post381141
                          Thanks for your feedback.

                          I had planned to trim the wood down to the same width as the metal bracket.

                          as far as the angle goes, I’m really quite limited at the moment as all the stores are closed so it a case of issuing what I’ve got here in the yard. I did try to find a more substantial metal bracket online but my searches came away empty.

                          Ill be trimming down the wooden angle today and will apply araldite glue and some further wiggle support.

                          The center tubing is adjustable and can be removed from the fixed tubing should I need to/be able to make improvements to the angled holding piece.

                          It’s been time consuming getting to this phase on the IT but I appreciate from reading the forum that the more time spent here the better the build will be.

                          My Build:

                          https://community.fornobravo.com/for...and#post423032

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Mongo View Post
                            I can tell you that I started with an all wood 'angle piece' and switched to one made of metal before I laid a single brick.
                            Found a construction tie at my local building supply that worked nicely.
                            I also second JR's comment that the angle piece needs to be narrower than the brick being laid.
                            I also second Russel's comment about the pivot point of the IT being raised from the floor using a castor.. I also started with a modified castor thinking it was the coolest idea ever but switched to a hinge after realizing the issue with the vertical diameter being different from the horizontal diameter.
                            Here's my construction brace angle piece, my hinge pivot and the trimmed down angle piece to accommodate the narrower bricks at the top of the dome.

                            Also looking at one of your photo's I think you may be considering a full upright brick for your first course. I'm not experienced enough to advise on that but do some reading/searching in the forum on the first course.

                            Just throwing out some ideas. Good luck!
                            Appreciate the response, thanks. I’m really hampered by what material I can use as the stores are all shut. I really wanted to follow JCG31’s design but I can’t get the pieces together right now. Sat at home with the stores closed for at least another month so I’m keen to move a head whilst I’ve got this time.

                            Regarding the Caster - I am thinking that by measuring the hight of the pivot and reducing the arm length of the IT to make a total length from the pivot center to the base of the angled bracket 18”, then the radius will remain constant throughout the course?

                            The first course - Again my understanding in many builds was to lay a half-soldier on top of the oven floor. I see you laid your first course outside the oven?
                            My Build:

                            https://community.fornobravo.com/for...and#post423032

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
                              Much better, Click image for larger version

Name:	53G IT Mod 8.10.12.JPG
Views:	314
Size:	588.8 KB
ID:	420572 but JR and Mongo are right about metal angle and width. I had two differ widths like Mongo.
                              Ok thanks. Damn I wish I’d have gotten round to making the IT earlier. It’s been a painstaking couple of day’s getting this one together. I think as it stands I’ll trim the wood to the width of the bracket and try to add as much strength and support to it.

                              I am a little unsure of the caster pivot. Say the pivot height is 1” above the oven floor, do I simply take that one in off the other end to make it a total of 18”?

                              Will this produce a consistent 18” radius throughout the courses?
                              My Build:

                              https://community.fornobravo.com/for...and#post423032

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by danhem View Post

                                Regarding the Caster - I am thinking that by measuring the hight of the pivot and reducing the arm length of the IT to make a total length from the pivot center to the base of the angled bracket 18”, then the radius will remain constant throughout the course?

                                The first course - Again my understanding in many builds was to lay a half-soldier on top of the oven floor. I see you laid your first course outside the oven?
                                I think you should be fine with the caster, reducing your radius/length of the IT as the angle of your IT vs. the floor increases with each chain.

                                I started my first course flat in the same orientation as the rest of the dome bricks because it seemed simpler and I like how it 'pulls in' the ceiling closer to the pizza around the edge of the oven.
                                Started outside the floor bricks because that first course provides a bit extra heat mass and insulates the floor horizontally.
                                Cutting the outer floor bricks to get that rough circular shape was not that difficult. 2 to 3 cuts per brick.
                                I ended up cutting a LOT of bricks where it wasn't absolutely necessary to reduce mortar gaps and increase the total mass of bricks in the oven. Downside is I'm on my 3rd $50 saw blade.

                                Again, I'm no expert, just passing on what I've encountered. Good luck and stay safe. Post photos of your progress.

                                -George
                                - George

                                My Build
                                https://community.fornobravo.com/for...mente-ca-build

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