BeanAnimal's 42" build - Pittsburgh PA

[mongota]

Love the slate!

We looked at a spiral mixer years ago, but when we really looked at usage, we opted to just use our kitchenaid with the dough hook.

Our standard pizza dough batch in the kitchenaid is about 1200g, from that we'll make four 300g pies. It's an approximate 10 minute kneading process in the kitchenaid, so if we need more than 4 pies, the second batch of dough will mix while I'm prepping the first batch for its first rise. The timing works out pretty well.

But definitely analyze your own usage. Personal convenience is worth something, and if you do a lot of large batches, or are a frequent baker? The upgrade can certainly be worth it.

[BeanAnimal]

Thanks Ricky!

Going to ask here instead of equipment ---

Spiral Mixers?

Looking at this Famag IM-5


I found $350 - $600 spirals of similar size - but am a bit leery of china knock off garbage. I don't want to spend $1300 but t the same time, don't want to waste money or hate my purchase and the kitchen aid can barely do a pound of dough.

[Chach]

Looks good guy! Nice lime sil and slate roof. You are well on your way.

Ricky

[BeanAnimal]

Entry arch set this afternoon. Scratch coat on front tomorrow and hopefully stone this weekend!

getting closer every day.

[BeanAnimal]

Limestone landing (5x12x77) lifted into place with angle iron supports (5/16 tapcons shown) . Landing stone is fully grouted under and not going anywhere! 400 Pound lift was actually not too bad. It only took two of us and a third to standby for safety. Absolutely ZERO lippage between landing and oven floor - I couldn't be happier. A single jack board was used to support the barely balanced stone until the angle brackets were set.

[BeanAnimal]

Just slowly working on finishing. Have only had the single curing fire back in July - oddly not had much of an urge to get cooking. I just want to get this thing done first. I get an hour or so a few times a week to work on it.

I have started with the stone veneer and should be done in a few days.
My brother and I lifted the landing stone (400 pounds) into place over the weekend and i was able to start getting the arch veneer brickwork done.

The Type S was not worth a dam for the brick veneer and it needs to sit 2" proud of the stand face to match the stone profile. I build up mortar to about 1" and then adhered the brick to a 1/2" arch backer cut from cement board. I used exterior modified thinset, and then used the same thinset to adhere the pre-fab "arch" to the front of the oven. I used a few tapcons, but they were not needed.

I will use the same template method for the entry arch, sandwiching blanket between the firebrick and the template that hold the brick veneer. Nice thermal break and will be fully covered by the corner brick veneers.





End bricks left off for easy fitting and will be attached after springer stones adhered.

So much easier then trying to set the arch bricks in-situ

[BeanAnimal]

I too have screwed in cement board over my steel stud roof frame. Am I correct that you then placed 3/4 S4S pine over the cement board and will apply the roofing material to the wood? How did you attached the pine to the cement board? Screws?

I had originally thought that I'd apply the roofing material directly to the cement board, but worried that screws or nails would damage the cement board. Also considered using an adhesive. I like your method.

Thanks,

Sorry for the late reply

Yes 3/4 S4S over the cement board. I wanted a class A fire rated roof structure, even if it is overkill.

Pine is screwed through to the steel. Cement board will not hold roofing by itself, it will spall and the nails or screws will be loose and likely lifted by wind.

You could use plywood, but solid wood will last a lifetime and plywood glue will delaminate in a rather short comparable timespan. I would have preferred 4/4 hemlock or other rough hardwood, but was in too much of a hurry to go pick it up from the mill. It would have been 1/4 the cost.

[SandySpringsPizza]

I too have screwed in cement board over my steel stud roof frame. Am I correct that you then placed 3/4 S4S pine over the cement board and will apply the roofing material to the wood? How did you attached the pine to the cement board? Screws?

I had originally thought that I'd apply the roofing material directly to the cement board, but worried that screws or nails would damage the cement board. Also considered using an adhesive. I like your method.

Thanks,

[BeanAnimal]

Not a lot to update.

I was able to get the correct chimney liner parts ordered and installed today.

The flue gallery has a 7” stainless starting collar installed. I wanted to use 7” stainless double wall duravent chimney liner.

Required
7DT-FC finishing collar
7DBK-ADSL Snap lock adapter

The snap lock adapter fits inside the flue starting color.
The finish collar slips over the snap lock adapter.
The finish collar connects to the chimney liner with the twist lock connection.

This was an expensive setup, as you all well know. The hardest part was getting answers from Northline and other vendors... had to explain 20 times that I didn’t need a ceiling support box or wall thimble and just needed to transition from7” single wall stove pipe to the duravent. They kept telling me I couldn’t do it without the monstrous ceiling support. Duratech support squared me away in 45 seconds. I should have started there.

Stone arrives Monday. Honestly, I am not looking forward to the install process, especially the grouting.

[BeanAnimal]

Yeah - sadly, I have had my share of stitches, but more often than not I glue or butterfly unless it is my face or an area that will not stay closed. This was over the top of the pointer finger knuckle. I did a good job this time.

The slate is going up MUCH easier than I anticipated. I am actually have a lot of fun with this part of the project. The slate cutter works perfectly and Joe's book (and myriad of videos) take all of the guesswork out if it.

I had planned on NOT using roofing felt, as really does nothing useful once the roof is installed. The only real purpose is to keep the roof dry until the slate is installed. That said, we have (finally) a lot of rain forecast and my tarps are pretty beat up. I hope to finish the job without buying new ones. I decided to felt the roof in hopes of keeping the calsil and dome dry.

I don't want to work myself into a corner - so am slating away from the chimney for now. I don't want to walk on or even hook ladder over the finished roof. I hope to have the veneer stone this week and will installed the chimney first so that I can finish and flash the slate as I go.



Joe had some mismatched pieces of drip edge at a huge discount, so I took them. The sides match and the front and back are each different, more character!


I have left the front for last, the landing ledge should be here this week, it ended up being 4” thick and I am a bit disappointed, but will deal with it, I need to build up the front edge to accept it.


got started on slate at the center, and am working to the left away from the chimney.

Details:
10x18 scalloped Vermont unfading purple slate (very old, reclaimed)

Headlap 4" (the wear marks indicate they came from a 3" headlap roof that may have had first row or two with 4" of headlap.

The 4" of headlap on an 18" slate leaves a 7" reveal. (18-4)/2 = reveal

I considered going with even 5" of headlap and a 6.5" reveal, but feared I would run out of good slates and there is no more to be had, he gave me the whole lot.

The starter course is 2 layers thick 10x11, from damaged full slates. First (bottom) starter row is turned upside down, with bottom side facing the top. This would normally be the ONLY starter row, with the first layer being placed over top of it. This allows the front edge to come to a point and look correct (per Joe's book and tradition).

In my case, i added a second (top) starter row placed good side up so that the area between the scallops on the first row is the traditional two layers. This also leaves a nice beveled edge on that same exposed area. If I used a single layer upside down, it would be a sharp edge, not flaked like the rest of the shingles. I set the first row back 1/4" in or so so as not to have an awkward edge in the small scallop tips where there are actually (3) stacked slates at the edge of the roof. I hope that makes sense.

The wood strip you see is the the cant strip used to rase the front edge to ensure that all of the slate lays on the same plane. Often a drop edge with a hump is built in, this was not available for cheap, so I used the old school traditional method (again, Joe's book and tradition).

I will try to remember to post detailed photos of the starter row, etc.

[fhausback]

Looking good Bean. I love the weathered slate.

It seems i average stitches every 18mo, and that keeps me up to date on tetanus for the little injuries. The 10 penny nail I stepped on while pouring my slab "tented" the top of my foot, but bleeding stopped pretty quick, so no need to go to the Dr.

[BeanAnimal]

Forgot to mention... on Saturday I had a small setback. While working with the last bit of steel studs, A few angry yellow jackets set out to sting my face in a coordinated and well timed attack. I think they were unhappy that I killed their friends for stinging my head earlier that morning.

Anyway, my ninja like moves caused a small accident. The resulting laceration and stitches on my knuckle (more than 6, less than 10) consumed 90 minutes of my afternoon.

i wasn’t going to go, but It looked a bit worse than dirt and tape could fix. So, I asked the lady of the house if I should go get stitches or just glue it and throw a butterfly on for good measure.

“uhh yeah..that really needs stitches ” was her answer.

The silver lining? I had the pleasure of getting sewn up without needing a tetanus shot.. They said I had one in 2018... frequent flyers get their rewards

[BeanAnimal]

Here are the slate shingles. I sorted them and stacked them. (I know they should be leaned, but I had no space and this is for less than 24 hours).


I did not ask the age, but they appear to be rather old. I would guess at least 60-100 given the style, color, wear, etc. I absolutely love the look compared to “new”. Many appear to have two wear patterns, meaning they could have been on two roofs already. I am assured that they have plenty of life left in them.


Very dirty, a lot of old roofing felt dust. I don’t care if they clean up or not.


Joe threw in a pile of damaged slate in case I needed it for cuts, practice etc.

[BeanAnimal]

Roof is a layer of cement board over the steel studs. Likely overkill but I don’t want there to be any question that the roofing material is class A fire rated. Not that anybody is ever going to ask, but just in case.

I covered the cement board with 3/4 S4S pine. My intent was to use 4/4 rough sawn hemlock, but the closest supplier was out. Friday at 4pm meant that I either waited until Monday and a 40 mile trip or use big box expensive pine. Sad really .65 a BF vs around $3 a BF for an inferior product. Ohh well.




Chimney attached and roof decking and rake edges going on.

[BeanAnimal]

catching up on photos.


1 coat clear stain
1 coat Red Mahogany
2 coats spar urethan. I think I documented this a page or so back


Front soffit completed


another view