36" Pompeii in Indiana, US

[GreenViews]

Started entrance today. poured subfloor of entrance yesterday. I didn't want to wait to complete the flue area, so I put a couple firebricks in the p-crete under where the entance brick column. Most of this supporting brick was below the thermal mass area anyway and I kept it out with 3/4" p-crete between as well. In this build I used insulating fire brick cut to 3" and 6" alternately against oven with a cutout for my angle iron to later mount the door to. I also spaced so I can put thermal rope between the angle iron and oven. Tomorrow I plan to cut the angle iron and make extra large holes to join loosly with bolts to one of the chimney support angle irons... to allow for thermal expansion without causing stress on the brick.

[BeanAnimal]

Don't care for the precut tile squares - too unnatural for something hand made. They grey brick go with the marble well.

[GreenViews]

Planning entrance, flue, and finish:

1. Flue and entrance idea and dimensions: I'm considering the following: Flue area idea: full 9"x20" for 2-3" height, then at angle iron, abruptly narrow to 4"x 20", then smoothly taper (not shown) over 4 to 6" into 2- 4" clay flue liners (which I surround with colored p-crete for insulation) - see mock up in photos
2. Thermal break: I bought some insulating firebrick as thermal barrier, thiniking of cutting into 3 and 6" sections then building the 9" flue area up always with insulating brick against oven.
3. Entrance ledge down?: I'm considering keeping entrance ledge down 1/4" (with thermal break also) for ease of ash removal (by putting your scoop below ledge and pulling ashes onto it).
4. from arch to square with angle iron: for ease and stability and maximizing flue area, I'm thinking of using angle iron (brick not mortared to it and space for expansion/contraction of iron. My nice arch would still be quite visible from the entrance. I would the have my outer opening a little higher than by inner door, but lower than the rectangular flue area. This would allow me the option of making a rectangular door shape and even putting it on a hinge if I extend some angle iron down on at least one side. Hmmm.
5. I had an idea with a found item... I found a roll of woven fiberglass. Very flexible but strong, maybe used in boat building locally. I was considering wrapping the half soldier area of my dome with it, then making 6 distinct p-crete butresses up to top of my half soldier heights and behind the straight area of my inner arch. This way, with the buttresses just in spots and the thermal blanket covering the rest of the base of the oven, I get support behind my half soldiers all around, but maximize insulation by having most of it covered with fiber blanket. I see that glass fabrics retain 50% of room temp tensile strength at 700F and 25% at 900F. This stuff is strong at room temp, so I think that is sufficient! I honestly don't think I need support behind my half soldiers, but this would be a cautious approach without going too far overboard I think.
6. Materials and look: I found a buried piece of soft marble. Most likely going to shape that for the center outside of my entrance. Everything in entrance sits on p-crete on a sand/fireclay layer. I have brick that somewhat match my house, for the outside of my oven enclosure, but not enough for the whole thing and I find it kinda boring for the full surface area, but I have some river stone with fossils (shells and the like) in them that I got from my Father's house and I was thinking 2 matching panels of them on the front of the oven (surrounded by brick). I also found on my property some limestone and was considering making a mantle (after cleaning up), but the more I think about it, using some of the river stone as a mantle just might be even more unique and beautiful. Last photo shows some of the materials I'me looking at... Wondering if anyone particularly likes something. Not going to use all the different materials, but still deciding.

[Mongo]

Well done!
I thought I was the oddball in regards to the IT use. I never once used a clamp and placed my bricks 'by feel' as you said.
Exact art and subtle science.

I'm with Russell. There is no downside to a long and slow cure.

[UtahBeehiver]

Current school of thought is the dome is insulated but not the final coating, ie stucco, etc. The insulation helps temper the temperature differential between the inside of the oven and the outside,, thus reducing the potential of cracking. Caveat emptor, this stage of the build is where we really see a lot of excited builders hurry and fire too fast too quickly and damage/crack their ovens. Start with some charcoal briquettes that will get you around 200 F, then could a dutch oven while your at it. when you go to wood, one extra piece of wood can really spike the temp quickly. If you see any steam then you going too hot. The turtle wins the race here.

[GreenViews]

Proud moment: Setting the dome keystone

Question: When should I insulate? Should I let it start curing and drying first or add insulation right away? I'll begin working on entrance and flue for now, thinking that insulation can wait a bit for better breath-ability as it cures, but I'm very interested in anyone's experience. FB guide v 2.0 seems to be silent on this question unless I missed it.

[GreenViews]

Video: Last row and dome key placement Shows me hand grinding off everything that doesn't look like my keystone

[GreenViews]

To finish up, (at 8" hole) should I finish with 3 side by side 9" brick? or should I go one more time around? Based on photos of past builds, I'm going with the latter unless I get overwhelming support for the former option... Less tricky cuts.

On the 7th course, I switched from Acona refractory mortar (from Menards) to Heat Stop brand (from brick supply source). This was coincidental as I ran out of the Acona and had bought a bag of the Heat Stop 50. I found that the Heat Stop 50 held the brick in place better, so worked in my favor on the later courses. Just FYI if you are buying. I like the white Acona product, however, so not saying anything bad about it. If I were to guess, I'd guess Acona has more lime and Heat Stop 50 has more portland in their mix.

[GreenViews]

7th, 8th and 9th course today. Should I use 3 side by side 9" brick with lots of cuts as keystone or go one more course around? On 9th course switched to 1/3 brick rather than 1/2 brick to keep the mortar gap smaller. You will see when you get there, lol.

[BeanAnimal]

Wow - making good progress. I am not quote that far along.

[GreenViews]

Recent build issues which become part of my oven's unique character. Did I post here how a bug landed on the one brick of row 4 that I installed upside down, creating an upside down V mortar joint? Well, now I have the unique behind the arch dome dimple of rows 5 and 6 and the sliding brick in row 6 to add, lol. Here is photographic proof. I'm too excited to be finishing this dome to care, but enjoy recognizing our less than perfect-ness, so here you are...

[P3 Stoaker]

Looks great and terrific photo's and video's.

[GreenViews]

Finishing arch to dome transition: See photo descriptions for process notes

[GreenViews]

Video: Row 6 part B - complete the first full circle

[GreenViews]

Video: Row 6 part A - pre-dinner Between 19 and 21 seconds, one can see the 4th brick I placed sliding down into the dome just a bit. No real harm, but I was watching to see if I had bumped it. I think it just moved on it's own, when I was exerting sideways force on the 6th placement (2 over). Didn't see it until later, so it is now an interesting characteristic of my oven! (And proof my bricks are interlocked and cannot fall out).