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36" Pompeii in St Louis

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  • #16
    This is so much simpler indeed. No more need to adjust. I also have my dome center flush with the floor. Just make sure the wooden tool can handle some light beating with the mallet.

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    • #17
      You will be happier not having to adjust (at least as much) the IT. It does help to check the IT periodically to make sure nothing has loosen up or changed.
      Russell
      Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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      • #18
        Some progress this weekend. I understand the tapered inner arch but it's starting to give me a little trouble so I'm going to spend the day messing with it. I need to make a more firm pencil holder on my IT so that my lines are consistent. I've looked at so many pictures on here of the tapered arch and it makes sense, I just can't tell if I need to bevel my cuts or not.

        Also starting to do some grinding to combat the inverted v's.

        Learning about the hidden cost in mortar ($90 for a 50lb bag)

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        My 36" build -&- Youtube Timelapse

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        • #19
          Arch tapering looks great in my opinion. What are you uncertain about?
          i just held my pencil to my tool in whichever is most convenient. As long as it is locked in position, it draws perfect circles.
          Mind for aligned joint in your dome. I notice quite a few that are almost aligned. If needed, insert a thinner brick every now and then.

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          • #20
            I cannot tell from the pics on how much of a full brick you have to work with as you move up, it looks like the bricks are already close to full length minus the angle cuts. The top dead center bricks of a tapered inner arch will be the longest length (because this is the dome is farthest away from the arch. I tell builder to layout this brick first, this ensure that the subsequent bricks each side a TDC will be long enough.
            Russell
            Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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            • #21
              Well the beveled cuts got the best of me and I kind of just gave up. I think I will be able to make it work. Using the IT, it gives me confidence the bricks will lay okay, and I'm sure I'll have to make some minor cuts where the courses meet. I will grind out some of the uglier things you see in my arch, and the front looks good enough to me. Going to give it a few days to set and dry before I go crazy with the grinder.

              Thanks for the kind words Kvanbael. This project is a lot of fun for me, this is not my forever home, so this oven is merely practice. I've never done anything like this, but I love it.

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              Attached Files
              My 36" build -&- Youtube Timelapse

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              • #22
                Seems like you are doing a pretty good job of this, reminds me very much of my own build. I’ll follow this thread as you progress.

                good luck.
                My Build:

                https://community.fornobravo.com/for...and#post423032

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                • #23
                  Progress from today (saturday) -- did two and a half courses (6 total). \Feels good.

                  Since I was sloppy on my inner arch, the 6th course didn't match up (level-wise) too well, so I had to cut a thin wedge piece. Still need another small wedge to even things out.

                  You can also see my "regular v's" (opposite of inverted v's) because I grinded a little too much off in my 4th course. Oh well. Got the hang of the angle much better in the courses above.

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                  Attached Files
                  My 36" build -&- Youtube Timelapse

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                  • #24
                    Decided to only do one course today (7th), was trickier than the last. I think the next course is going to be a real doozy. I plan on using wooden sticks to hold them in place as I move along, maybe doing like 2 at a time, waiting 10 minutes to help the mortar form up. Anyone have any other tips?

                    Other questions I have:

                    1. Does the vent landing and outer arch have to be firebrick? If not, should I still use the flue set mortar? -- I think what I am planning on doing is extending my landing by a half brick, so from front to back I'll have a half-decorative brick (red), then a full firebrick length, then inner arch/dome

                    2. For the chimney, I'd like to do the clay flue then surround it with bricks, anything I need to consider for this? Once again, do I need to use flue set mortar for this? Do I even need the clay flue if I am using bricks? Please direct me to some pics/posts to help me visualize this if you can. Thanks.

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                    My 36" build -&- Youtube Timelapse

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                    • #25
                      Lots of rain today, two more courses done. I found it pretty easy to hold the bricks in place with scrap wood while moving around. Felt like my cuts were pretty good too.
                      It was insane working in low 70 degree weather after only working in 100F+ for the past several weeks.
                      I think I'm ready to do my keystone tomorrow. Pulled the IT out.


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                      My 36" build -&- Youtube Timelapse

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                      • #26
                        Looks great. You’ve managed to keep the inside of your dome looking super clean!

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                        • #27
                          Keystone in, got my floor back in and cleaned up, and created the outer arch form. Need to pick up some red brick for the vent and chimney and order some insulating blanket for the dome.

                          Should I wait to insulate it to start some curing fires? Or is there any benefit to doing it now and later (after the insulation/crete layers are on)? Also, I'm guessing I should wait until my vent/chimney is in place?

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                          My 36" build -&- Youtube Timelapse

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                          • #28
                            Current school of thought is to have the dome insulated but not the final outer coating before firing. This reduces the thermal differential between the inside of the oven the the outside of the oven reducing potential cracking issues. Low temperature curing can be done with briquettes, this gets you around 200-250 F. Caveat emptor, this is where we see builders in their excitement fire to hot too fast and damage their ovens. One extra log on the fire can spike the temperature too fast.
                            Russell
                            Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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                            • #29
                              Looks great!!! It is a big accomplishment when you finish. For sure insulate as Russell sugested.

                              Ricky
                              My Build Pictures
                              https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%...18BD00F374765D

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                              • #30
                                plastered - you're doing GREAT!! Bashing through and most of all loving it as you figure it out (me too!).
                                Have to say - I think your IT will become mine as it was here between yourself and Utah that the whole placement piece made the most sense to me (and yours doesn't need a weld!).
                                ​​​​​​
                                To your questions above - there is a great number of threads (just Search clay flue) regarding matters of building one - I think the biggest issue is weight and how you distribute that in your opening ... there are a few designs that direct the outward pressure of the chimney brick down and out along the opening design (most are curved).
                                Dino_Pizza has some GREAT drawings that tackle this issue. Awesome build!

                                Keep having fun!
                                Barry
                                You are welcome to visit my build HERE

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