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42" build in Arizona

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  • xvandish
    replied
    Pictures a bit out of order, sorry.

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  • xvandish
    replied
    Progress since the last update -

    Built up the walls a good bit, and this weekend just built the inner arch. The arch took forever took forever for lots of reasons. I first tried freehanding the curve lots of different ways and wasn't happy with it, so drew it with a computer and printed it out on a large sheet of paper. Then traced the entry onto some plywood, then cut it out with a combination of a miter saw and a wood chisel.

    For the actual arch, I was just going to do half bricks without tapering, but while I was there decided to switch to full-bricks with a taper to make my life easier. My IT tool isn't extendable so I just had to freehand and eye things up. Somehow while building it, the arch got a bit out of line, which is fine but is going to make making the door a flush fit a challenge later.

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  • xvandish
    replied
    Thanks Utah, no worries at all! My apologies for my delayed response, I had a draft I though I posted.

    I changed the IT to be similar to the "proposed" section in the digram in my last post, it's working much better, at least in the dry-fits that I've done. Appreciate the thorough explanation.

    Ah interesting, maybe it was a reference picture he posted and I didn't read closely enough.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Sorry for the delay. To answer your question(s) the where the IT rod or line (from the center of the dome) needs to intersect the internal face of the dome brick the middle vertical axis of the brick. This makes the face perpendicular to center of the dome so if you not intersecting the face at the right point the error keeps getting worse as you go up. In a perfect world a fixed length IT works but there are lot of variables that throw things off. So an IT that can shorten or lengthen gives you more flexibility. At the other end of the IT where it mounts to the floor, best is rotation point is right at center of dome and at floor elevation. Any different placement primarily affects the diameter of the dome as you go up and this is where and adjustable IT comes into play.

    PS - I do not believe the posted picture of banding is Tscar's, he did a barrel oven.,
    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 07-08-2023, 03:22 PM.

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  • xvandish
    replied
    Thanks Utah,

    Ah, I think that explains the stepping I was getting dry fitting the next row! Hmm. I attached a diagram of the current iteration, and the proposed version, does the proposed version look more in line with what you'd expect? How exact does that center point need to be? Should I make it so that the center/middle of the wood IT rod/block meets the brick face exactly in the center? Written description of my current iteration: Wooden stick bolted to a caster, caster is attached to wooden block that is sunken relative to the floor.


    I do have a contingency yeah! I've attached a picture, with the source as a caption. I'm planning on something like a cord/ribbon of some type wrapped around the soldiers, attached to something embedded in the counter on the left and right sides of the oven. I'm thinking a stainless steel ribbon at the moment, and maybe some cast iron fluer de lis rods embedded into the counter. I tried to add a URL for the image source but I think that's against posting rules. Let me know how best to give credit. I think it's Tscarborough's oven.


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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Just need to point out something you need to be aware of. In order for the IT to work properly and the internal brick face to be perpendicular to the center point on the dome. The IT shaft from the bottom floor center point needs to intersect the middle of the brick face or the brick will not have the correct angle to be perpendicular. It is cumulative as you go up and the brick face will start to step at the bottom joint.

    By using full soldiers, there will be quite a bit of outward forces at the dome and top of soldiers. Do you have any contingency to buttress the soldiers?

    Click image for larger version

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  • xvandish
    replied
    Thanks for the encouragement Giovanni, much appreciated. Hope you enjoyed the 4th as well!

    Here's some progress:

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  • Giovanni Rossi
    replied
    No worries. It's always good to post your solutions so others can benefit from the collective knowledge. I too did some demo, albeit for cosmetic reasons; but it was only 3 bricks.

    At the end of the day you have to feel good about the final product! Happy 4th!

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  • xvandish
    replied
    Giovanni, since apologies for the late reply! Work and travel...

    I decided to go the brute way and mostly undo the 3rd chain, I was really unhappy with it. Took some time to chisel the bricks out of position without weakening the ones below, cleaned up the old mortar, then slowly re-did the course. This holiday weekend hopefully I'll get the first arch up and continue on.

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  • Giovanni Rossi
    replied
    I'm hoping your high point is the middle so you can just add a little more mortar on the sides where it will be less noticeable but I think you're describing the opposite. Either way though, and depending how far out you are, you should make the adjustments over 2-3 courses. Again, depending how far out you are, I would be inclined to slowly ease the high section with a grinder, wet sponging with each pass.

    There are members with much better masonry skills than I possess and may have a better solution. Hopefully one will see your question soon so you don't get stuck on this too long.

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  • xvandish
    replied

    Thanks, getting there Giovanni! I'll upload some progress next week once I can format/crop my iPhone pictures.

    A question for you all - On my 3rd chain I've got 2/3s done, the middle and right parts. But I got careless and right part is way out of level with the middle (bubble over the line on level). Should I make the left part of the current course level with the right and fix the middle in the next course? Or make the left of the current course level with the middle, and then fix the middle and left in the next course? Thanks.

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  • Giovanni Rossi
    replied
    Making progress!
    I found adding the pics 1 at a time was the only way I could keep them in order.

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  • xvandish
    replied
    More photos. Sorry they're out of order, looked for a bit at fixing it but eh.

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  • xvandish
    replied
    Pictures of the process since march! I've done the following
    1. Cut out the ceramic fiber board to size (in the garage, since march was rainy)
    2. Lay the brick out in a herringbone pattern
    3. Cut the floor to shape. I'm doing soldiers on the outside of the floor, so cuts cuts to size took a bit. I tried for a 45deg angle for the bricks.
    4. Take all the brick off, then cut out the rest of the foamboard to the same size, using the initial as a template
    5. Move the ceramic fiber board to the countertop, lay it on top of some ceramic tile
    6. Move all the bricks out to the counter, recreate the layout and level each brick. Getting things level here was really, really, not fun, but happy with how it turned out, you can barely feel most of the seems.
    7. Cut the soldiers. I went with full-height soldiers. I know they'll probably need extra reinforcement, but I really like them.

    I'm making my IT tool right now, once that's made I'll make sure the soldiers are in the right place, and get started with the mortar.

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  • xvandish
    replied

    Been working slowly, putting together the oven floor now. The hearth didn't end up completely level, so leveling and setting each brick perfectly is taking forever, maybe I'm being a bit too much of a perfectionist here.

    To work during the rainy season I cut the insulation and planned/cut the floor inside the garage, then moved everything outside. Moving things outside, then re-building the floor has been enough of a hassle that I wish I'd just relaxed during the rain and then started work outside. Oh well..

    Details:
    planning a standard 12"ish tall inner arch, at 20" wide. Adding a 1" recess on each side for the door, and then a flared opening out to about a 26" wide outer arch. Going to use half-height soldiers standing outside of the floor for the dome.

    I'll add some pictures tomorrow.

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