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  • From_IT_to_PIZZA
    replied
    JRPizza I picked up a few of those dewalt blades..... Can I cut the entire brick using these blades with the angle grinder, or do I need another type of saw?


    Thanks rsandler. Trying to keep it simple but I think I have a way of making the 2' percrete layer using the cutout I made of the DogHouse....


    libertyhillmichael The ground slab is a new (Late June) professionally poured with 5" of gravel and 4" cement.


    Thanks for the great info david s. I do have the option to cut the bottom of the DogHouse to make it 6" shorter. If I cut 6" off the bottom the internal diameter of the oven will be 38", internally 21" tall from the center point, bottom of the door opening (left to right) will be 21.5" wide, top of the door opening (Left to right) will be 11", and the height of the door opening will be 12.5" tall. Would you suggest I make this cut?

    Thanks for all the help on this... Super excited about the progress and getting it completed. Removing the form this evening, will post more pics.
    Last edited by From_IT_to_PIZZA; 08-06-2024, 11:47 AM.

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  • david s
    replied
    Your doghouse dome mould appears to be a catenary dome, or very close to, with the base diameter about equal to its internal height. Structurally you have the strongest self supporting dome possible., However, for an oven that uses the dome to cook primarily by radiated heat from the dome (with assistance by conduction and radiation from the floor), there is a significant advantage in a low dome, particularly for cooking the top of a pizza. Unfortunately, lowering the internal height of a catenary dome, while reducing the chamber volume significantly, also results in angled walls at the perimeter base that make working the oven difficult and limiting floor area for large baking trays or bread loaves near the outside. The solution for oven design over centuries has been the hemisphere which results in an internal height, half of the diameter of the base. Its ease of building, great circulation atmosphere and pretty good structural strength have proved it to be an all round performer. For builds using brick units especially, its structural form, under considerable stress from thermal expansion and contraction cycling, has proved adequate. More recently with the advent of castable refractory that has largely superseded firebrick in industry, cast designs that are not as vulnerable as brick unit builds have been able to employ low domes with high walls at the base with good success and longevity to produce ovens with low domes, reduced volume (which means lower fuel consumption) thinner walls (which means faster heat up times) and enough structural integrity for longevity.The drawings should explain what I mean.

    I'm sure your oven will perform ok and many here will be very interested to hear of your experience with its use in practice.
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    Last edited by david s; 08-05-2024, 09:07 PM.

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  • libertyhillmichael
    replied
    I may be missing something here, but after seeing your oven sitting on the 4” slab, I’m concerned about what you have the cinderblocks sitting on. I did not see anything or can tell from the photos how thick the pad is. I am building a Forno bravo 44 inch precast and poured a 6 inch concrete slab with the cinderblocks placed on that with a 5 inch pad for the oven,all reinforced with rebar. Terminology could be a little confusing sometimes.
    libertyhillmichael

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  • rsandler
    replied
    Problem with extending your insulation that far is just that perlite and perlcrete is really absorbent, and you need to get rid of that water and keep it out for the insulation to function well. Having the edges of your insulation flush with your slab makes waterproofing more difficult, I would think. Plus perlcrete is pretty crumbly, even when set, so leaving those edges exposed is likely to result in chipping. If you don't want to make new forms, you could probably extent the existing form, then add another layer or two of boards inside the extension to inset your perlite layer a couple inches from the edges of the concrete.

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  • From_IT_to_PIZZA
    replied
    New updates from this past weekend. 4" concrete slab.

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    It's not prefect, but its leveled and looks okay so far. Lets see how it looks once I remove the form...


    I am now thinking about the next layer for Per-crete (5-1) and thinking of just using the exiting form, elevating it up 2" and pouring it on the entire slab. Not sure if this will make insulation worse as it appears most are adding this directly under the oven.

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  • From_IT_to_PIZZA
    replied
    Here are some pictures of the build so far.

    The slab for the oven will be 4" think and the area I have for it is 52.5" x 63". I have a 5.5" overhang on the front and an 8" overhang on the side. I will for sure be using mesh and rebar to reinforce the slab.

    I think my next biggest issue is the size of the oven, keeping in mind that I will add cement \ material to the template of about maybe 4-5" once all said and done.

    Right now as how the pictures are, the internal diameter of the oven is 41.5", internally 27" tall from the center point, bottom of the door opening is 24.5", top of the door opening is 11", and the height of the door opening is 17.5" tall.

    If I cut 6" off the bottom of the template the internal diameter of the oven is 38", internally 21" tall from the center point, bottom of the door opening is 21.5", top of the door opening is 11", and the height of the door opening is 12.5" tall.

    Should I cut the 6inch and go with the internal size of 38" or should I cut more?


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  • From_IT_to_PIZZA
    replied
    david s "in order to allow movement of the floor bricks as they expand and contract." > Should I line them up close as possible to each other? Or have a tiny gap? I think once I get the dome in place it will go over and cover the pcrete and the fire bricks.


    JRPizza Good to know, lets see how level I get the pcrete slab and see how it looks. Yes, I have an angle grinder and was planning on using it.


    UtahBeehiver If you can move it and maybe rename the thread > In-Progress with a plan but, not very sure < I think would be suitable. Yes I noticed how there were many long threads.


    I finished the cinder block part of the build but did not take any pics yesterday. Will get some up tomorrow

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Heck, if you have a 4.5" angle grinder you can find masonry grinding disks cheap. HF does not currently show the ones I used in stock, but Amazon has Dewalt ones for $1.69! I used them a bunch on my build to knock off any corners or cut lines I had left over from using my brick saw.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Even if there are some minor high spots (peel catchers) you can knock the edges down with a diamond cup grinder on an angle grinder once the floor is laid. Some builders have had some success using a belt sander as well. But an angle grinder with a diamond cup will come in hand with the dome and arch construction. Nothing fancy and you can get at HF pretty cheap.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    As constructions starts I will move your posts to the "build section". Let me know what you want to call it or you can start in thread in this build section and I can move all the previous posts over to the new one and thank you for not starting a new thread for each question. It just keeps the blog more streamlined.

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Lots of builders have had success with sorting their floor bricks for uniform height and not using any leveling compound, provided they are going on a flat level surface. That is what I did - after sorting I easily had enough bricks that matched to get a nice flat cooking floor.

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  • david s
    replied


    It is better IMO to keep the mix dry in order to allow movement of the flooor bricks as they expand and contract. It also makes removal easier should a brick need replacing. A wet sand and clay mix will set hard and impede brick movement as well as making pulling up a cracked brick much harder.



    For my ovens I solved the uneven floor brick issue by creating a two piece cast, casting upside down which creates a perfectly flat surface, employing a single tongue and groove join. This then provides two manageable sections with the single join providing sufficient movement for expansion.

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    Last edited by david s; 07-27-2024, 01:21 PM.

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  • From_IT_to_PIZZA
    replied
    Perfect! Just dry sand for leveling purposes it will be.

    I will post more pics after the weekend with my progress.

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  • rsandler
    replied
    As far as laying floor bricks, although the plans recommend sand and clay mixed with water to make a paste, experienced builders on here recommend just using dry sand/clay. In practice the insulation has a tendency to suck all the water out of the paste, and then you have wet insulation and unworkable paste. In either case it's really just for levelling, not securing the bricks (the weight of the oven will do that). If your insulation layer is acceptably flat/level, you can just lay the bricks directly on the insulation (I skipped the sand/clay mix on my first oven because I couldn't make it workable, and on my second oven just used dry sand/clay in a couple places where the bricks were wobbly).

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    pcrete/vcrete is a suitable insulation attached is information showing the K (thermal conductivity - lower better). 5 to 1 under the floor and dome edge and 8-10 to 1 over the dome.
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