Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

[GianniFocaccia]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

Dino,

Wow, your slate looks really good! The finish work on the edges looks excellent. Keep up the great work - you're almost home.

John

[Bob C]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

Dino,
your oven is looking really great.
Nice job.

Bob

[drseward]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

Dino,

I love, love, love the slate. It's going to look amazing. Great job!

Mark

[Dino_Pizza]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

Thanks papavino and Mike. The slate is quite fun to install. I think I'm just blown away by how great it's looking after all the needless worrying I did about it pre-construction.

Mike, my slate is 3/16" thick with some thicker pieces but looks fine when mixed in. I put a drop of silicon sealant on each nail and a walnut size glob on each tile to "cushion" and take out play or rattle. But I make sure it squishes and does not lift or show on any tile. I was able to use all 10 and 8' tile but each side of the roof has 4 custom cut 5" tile to offset the joints and then I'll have to use some custom 3-4" for the rows at opposite end of the roof that are short. I used autocad to lay it out and am sticking to it.

Mike, I also installed a cant strip at the rake ends using a piece of molding to lift the starter course 1/8+" inch like all the google books and websites recommend to keep the slate even looking all the way up. It can go above or below the drip edge flashing but I put it under the flashing.

[mfiore]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

Dino, I appreciate the detailed response. Thank you.

I have some scrap material (metal studs, concrete boards, etc). I'll have to try to make a small mock up to try different nails and screws. Perhaps you are right in that I should just put a layer of wood over my layer of cement board.

Your slate does look awesome. I like the look of two different sizes. How thick are they? Looks great!

[papavino]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

Dino,

Those slate shingles look incredible. Very nice.

[Dino_Pizza]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

Mike, I just nailed a dozen slate over the last 4 days and I agree: The plywood works best with slate. Here is what I've got:

I bought a "square" of light-weight slate at $370. A square covers a 10'x10' roof with 2" head lap but I get a better layout with 3" head lap and still have a few pieces left over. I'm using 8" & 10" slate that's 16" long, 6" exposed.

My nails are 1-1/2" in a 1lb box found at ONE Home-Depot but not at any others at $15. I also purchase a 5lb box of 7/8" at a local roofing company for $55. The longer nails are great for everything except the edges and parts that have a steel stud under them. At the those areas, I use 7/8" nails so the copper doesn't touch the steel and cause some sort of electrolysis dissimilar metals do according to all the roofing web-sites. In hind-site, the areas where I need the shorter nails that have studs under the 3/4" plywood, I could have easily trimmed the nail tips with good pliers which I did for the slate starter course. I needed really short nails there. With copper, it's soft & really easy. Also, if you use copper roof edge flashing, the copper nails don't penetrate: you have to pre-drill a small hole when it's on the roof and in place. They are that soft.

Which brings me to another subject: your durock or cement board roof. I really wanted to do that too but I lost the argument with my spouse. But now I'm soooo glad I went with plywood. The copper nails hold to it great. I'm not sure how the copper will nail into the cement board. I'll try it on a spare piece in the next few days and let you know. You MAY have to drill 2 drywall screws per slate and for-go the copper nails altogether. I went the all copper route and now don't care that my roof might last 150 years. Hot dipped galvanized would have been fine (and cheaper) and I could have avoided the copper-steal stud headache if I used galv'd flashing & drip edge.

THE GOOD NEWS: The slate is nowhere near as fragile as I thought. And it's looking like I hoped for. I haven't broken any yet while nailing. To cut the slate, I use a masonry blade on my skill saw then chip with claw hammer to make it "peel" right. I drill the small nail hole in the cut pieces with ease (where it's missing the pre-punched hole) then use a 1/4" masonary bit to put a small depression over it so the nail rests at or below the slate face. It's only for my small roof so it's not a lot of work. I had NO luck with the way those YouTube videos and "slate expert" websites show you about cutting slate. But nailing it flat is a breeze.

So Mike, I think you're right: you will need fur strips to nail your slate OR you might think of of just nailing a sheet of plywood over your roof instead if it's less work. Then your copper nails will be mostly in plywood. But do experiment with it: I was shocked that the copper nails would NOT pierce the copper flashing and drip edge pieces, it's pretty soft. Here are my progress pics to date. Sorry about the loooong post. Dino

[mfiore]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

So I have 2 sizes of nails. They have to be long enough to hold the slate in but not so long as to touch a metal framing member below.

Where did you find shorter copper nails? I have the same dilemma. All I can find are 1.5 inches. I still don't know what I'm going to do about installing the slate. I'm beginning to realize that I should have used plywood instead of cement board on my roof. I'll likely still need some wood furring strips or something to nail the slate to.

[rbirchell]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

Thanks. Maybe that didn't make sense; as I reread what I wrote.

As the dome arch flattens and closes in, I notice a few issues. One is the ring gets smaller and the stones need to be cut in to thirds (as you said). As I flip through pics I see a few different ways others handled this. One way, is cutting the stones still pretty large on the flat. This creates a large triangle under the newly laid stone. A second way, is cutting the stones more narrow each way; creating an increasingly skinny ring as you close in towards the keystone. The last method is narrow wedges, or thirds as you said, to minimige the triangle under the previous ring. Gromit has a nice looking dome using that method; I noticed that after I posted this last message. That is the way I will likely go.

I was just curious if that took some planning or if the current methods I am employing will accomplish that. I agree with what you are saying. By the end of the first ring I had the method down as to greatly reducing the inverted V. I don't mind the small ones. The pizza's won't care either. The big ones bug the heck out of me though.

[Dino_Pizza]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

Bob, I usually cut (or for some reason always have) 2 or 3 more 1/2 bricks than I need to finish the ring or that row. Then I place my 3 bricks on the next row, adjust the tilt up or shave some of the bottom until those 2 bricks look like they are right. It usually took me 3 bricks to see if it was working right. Then I used them as guides for the rest of that rows brick cuts.

Then I would see how the vertical tapers look, if the "V" is acceptable or if I have to get sharper angles on those inverted V's. I always over-did those side tapers more than I needed to, accidentally. It's much more subtle than you think.

When you start to cut bricks into 3rds, then you back off that tapper you just did with 1/2's or you'll over cut those too.

I like your build, good attention to detail. Let me know if you need anything else, Dino

[rbirchell]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

Dino,

As you work your way up the rings, do the stone sizes just seem to work themselves out? Or do you have to calculate it a bit in advance? I've been using the string method to cut the stones and putting on a slight bevel to reduce the inverted V. But, I am curious what happens as the rings get tighter.

Thanks,

Bob

[Dino_Pizza]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

Thanks Daren, I used 1.5" exterior wood to steel screws. I quickly pre-drilled a shallow recess to make sure the screws heads sank in a little. Then putty and sand it. I used the same screws at the edges of the fascia (wood to wood) and at the top edge (fascia to roof plywood) so everything seems tight and square.
If it looks good, blame the straight boards and fresh putty, not me -Dino

[dbhansen]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

Looks great, Dino!! What did you use to attach the pine boards? I don't see any nail or screw heads. Looks nice and clean.

Daren

[Dino_Pizza]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

I finished the plywood roof & fascia boards. Next is the 30lb roofing felt then nailing on copper flashing & the slate. I wish now I did not go with copper since I can't mix hot-dipped galv nails with copper, but I also can't have copper nails go into my steel studs grrrrr So I have 2 sizes of nails. They have to be long enough to hold the slate in but not so long as to touch a metal framing member below. Asphalt shingles would have been sooo much easier. Slate roof installation is an amazing art/science. I'm glad it's only for my enclosure and not anything larger.

Mike, my fascia boards are 1x6 (.75"x5.5") #2 pine from HD. They were straight and clean & I'll primmer & paint them, so they work. We don't get any snow/ice (call me Captain Obvious) in L.A. and little rain so I think my .7" roof plywood and this fascia board is fine. HD had some clear finished pine that just glowed & I'll use those for the soffits. That will stay unpainted with a clear coat cuz I like what Scott (smuth10) did on his. Once I get the roof on, I'll know what to do for the stone veneer and counter. Cheers, Dino

[mfiore]

Re: Dino's 42" Pizza Oven Starts

Dino,

I didn't remove the eaves, but I did cut them back 3-4 inches on each side. Once the stone is up, they will be little. I like the balance of that better. I had no intention of the long eaves to begin with, but just used full length metal studs, anticipating I'd be able to cut them back in the future. I have never used CAD. That whole planning ahead thing sort of eludes me. I just cut and screwed and mortared until everything looked right.


I'll post an update on my build link once I get the camera back in gear (who am I kidding, my toddler dropped it, totally bent the telescoped lens. It won't retract anymore. I need a new one!)

What did you use for soffit boards? Fascia?

I know exactly what you mean about scraping my head on the damn metal edges of those eaves. I should have taped a chunk of padding to the end of them. I look like Frankenstein!