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Thanks Bill and Wade. I figured I would end up making something. I was just hoping there was a time saving piece of flashing I could use.
I am getting ready to lay the oven floor and I am trying to decide if I am going to put down the fire clay\sand mixture dry or wet. What did you guys do?
I went wet. Could not forsee ever having to replace a floor brick and I wanted to make sure I had good conductive contact between bricks, no hot/cold spots. I know, over thinking.... I don't think it really matters either way.
Last edited by wlively; 05-16-2009, 08:13 AM.
Reason: World's worst typist
Bill, those are perfect, but holy #%$@ is that expensive for a piece of galvanized metal.
Not sure what to do about the fire clay and sand now. I like the idea of the dry because I can just put it down and not be in a hurry to get things level before it dries, but I am worried about the edges moving and the dome coming down if I do not at least do the end pieces with the paste. I guess I could just do the dry on the bottom and then use Heat Stop on the end pieces. That is the route I am leaning, I would rather be safe then sorry.
Thanks for all of your help everyone. This forum is great!
I had some time this weekend to set the floor of the oven and cut the bricks for the soldier course and opening. I ran into a few problems, but I just keep reminding myself it doesn't need to be perfect. The bricks I have for the floor are new and the ones for the opening and dome I bought used. I was thinking of doing a rustic style for the finish so they kind of fit it with that.
Did you guys mortar the bottom of the soldier row or just the sides?
I am looking to order my vent pipe and I have some questions I was hoping someone would be able to answer for me. I know I have read that we should be using SS for the vent pipe, but I am not sure why. I am assuming it is because the Simpson and others like it have insulation built into them. Is this correct?
Also, the Lowe's by me has a product called SuperVent. It is made in Canada by a company called Selkirk. It looks to be made very well and the price is pretty reasonable for a 6"x36" SS section ($66). The only problem I saw is they do not make an anchor plate. Has anyone here used them before? Can I use the Simpson anchor plate with this? Will adding an elbow kit reduce the draw of the oven?
Just trying to save a few $$ at this point. Any info you could provide would be great, thanks!
A lot going on these past few weeks, but I have finally had some time to work on my oven in the last week. It is going OK, but I am having a problem with the bricks lining up right on the joints. They are touching on the top and not on the bottom. It is creating an upside down V. I think it is mainly the used bricks I am using, but it is making things a little difficult and I wanted all my joints as close as possible. If you guys could take a look at the pics I have below and let me know if this is something you have run into, or if you think it will be a problem.
I should have time to do the third chain tomorrow, which means the start of the transition to the inside arch. JOY! I am shooting for having the dome and curing done by July 3rd. That may be pushing it, but that is what I am shooting for.
That's the nature of the beast. The ONLY way to avoid it is to cut your bricks at an angle. Go to the photo gallery and look at some of my pictures. A few others have cut them as well. It's a pain, but doable.
Scott. Les is right. The further you go up, as the bricks are tipped in more of an angle, they make the infamous "inverted V". Two options: 1) accept them for what they are. This is a quicker approach, just using half bricks all the way up. Problem is that the joints have more mortar. 2) Angle (bevel?) the sides of the bricks so they are fatter on the bottom. That way they meet at neat joints when tipped inward to close in the rings. This is the route I took, although not nearly as perfect as others. It does take quite a bit longer.
If you choose to go this route (although, if my build was any benchmark, it would really push it to be done by the 4th of July), then there are several tips and methods for achieving this if you scour through the threads. I found this thread to be quite useful, particularly posts 60-80 (about)
I haven't started cutting any bricks yet but have poured my structural hearth. I ordered Foamglas insulation which will be delivered tomorrow for my insulative layer and then I will be running into the same issues (challenges) you are experiencing. I wouldn't blame it all on the bricks you are using. As Les explained, that "V" gap is what you'll get without cutting angles. I laid this out in SolidWorks prior to starting and noticed the same gaps - check out the pix. I am not looking forward to cutting angles on all the bricks but I think it needs to be done...
Thanks guys. At least I don't feel like I am doing something wrong. I don't know how, but I must have missed this detail in reading all of the other threads I have gone through. I started to think about it after I posted the last response and I realized I would have to create that inverted V when you lift the brick up. I am not sure all of the extra cutting is worth the effort. The gaps on the bottom are about 1\8". I think when I get past the third chain I will consider it, as the gap will most likely get larger as the chains go up. I guess I could just cut a shim and prop them up a little when I cut the side angles. That would give me the compound angle I am looking for.
What did you guys do?
Unfortunately, I got laid off last week. Up side is I can work on the oven every day and I should be able to get the dome finished pretty quickly now and get to curing. From what I have read I should wait at least a week after I am finished to start the curing fires. Is the about right? I know the longer the better, but what is a realistic time frame?
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