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Wow, the Pugliese looks great! Did you use those baskets for final proofing? You've got a nice rise and airy insides. Sounds like a good plan (bread baking) while you wait for better weather.
Cheers, Dino
"Life is a banquet and most poor sons-of-bitches are starving to death." -Auntie Mame
Hi Ann
Please view and/or download the Pompeii oven building instructions from this website. They are free. There you'll find a materials list and step by step construction information.
Many/most of us had no previous brick masonry experience prior to starting our builds. If you can follow a recipe, have a strong back, a occasional helper or two and some free time, you can build a WFO.
Finished the floor today and did a test run with the soldier course (which I am also placing on top of the FB board).
I rented a wet saw for one day and decided to cut as much as possible leaving the rest to be done with an angle grinder as I go. It was dark when I finished so complete floor pic will have to wait until tomorrow.
I did a test run of the soldier course. I am ready to start with mortar tomorrow as long as work does not get in the way.
Here is the question.. Do I place mortar on the FB insulating board and place the soldier course on that or do I place the soldier course on a sand/fire clay mix?
Several people recommend that you shouldn't mortar the soldier course to the floor to allow for expansion and contraction. The weight of the dome is sufficient to hold itself in place.
I, on the other hand, went the other way cause I live in an earthquake prone country. I wanted to make sure the dome would not slide out of position if ever one does hit us.
If you search the forums, there are varied opinions to this matter but I chose stability over flexibility. If you plan on an enclosure, maybe you can buttress key positions of the dome to hold it in place. If shifting and earthquakes won't be an issue, I don't see the need to mortar the soldier course down. Giving the dome opportunity to expand and contract freely will in the end help with its ability to cope with the periodic heating and cooling cycles.
I put mine directly on the FB Board. The sand/fireclay is to make sure the floor is level. There is a lot more forgiveness in the dome that can be filled with mortar. So unless you have a major difference between boards (I had about 1/8 inch), it won't affect the soldier course.
Joe
Member WFOAMBA Wood Fired Oven Amatueur Masons Builders America
I am in the process of doing the 3rd course. I set these bricks and had to go out for a few hours. Things were fairly moist when i left as I misted things with the hose before I left. When I returned I noticed this small crack. The brick has not moved at all.
My questions are, what did I do that caused this to happen? How do I prevent this as I proceed?
I am using heat stop 50 if that makes any difference and I know these outside joints are bigger than they recommend.
Do I just cover with mortar to fix, or do I need to remove the brick? The brick seems to be well seated right now.
You will probably sleep better if you replace these bricks. I've had some nightmares of my oven crumbling about the time when I was cutting and mortaring the bricks for the dome-to-arch transition.
I noticed in your earlier post that you plan on building a 15.5" height dome but your soldier course was not cut with an angle on top. Do you think this will make it difficult to get the anticapted lower dome?
I noticed in your earlier post that you plan on building a 15.5" height dome but your soldier course was not cut with an angle on top. Do you think this will make it difficult to get the anticapted lower dome?
I used a wedge brick in between the first and second course to achieve the desired angle and build the 15.5" height.
Was this crack a result of things not being kept moist while drying?
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