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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    The design of the HF saw changed a few years back but that said, post #21 of this thread show a jig for the new style HF saw that allows you to do a compound cut, ie taper and bevel in one pass. I attached a pic showing taper (angle) and bevel. For the dome ovens you will need both in one cut (compound cut). It is possible to get these cuts with two passes, doing an angle cut then doing a bevel cut but it is twice the cuts. There is also a link to DeeJayoh spreadsheet that assist builders with the angles needed for each course. The preset degrees on the saw are not much use since the angles you are dealing with are for the most part less the 10 degrees and changes with each course.
    http://www.fornobravo.com/community/...ulator?t=18131

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  • Novaslo
    replied
    Sorry guys, my post was a reply to an older post.... Thought I was on the latest comments. Thanks Forum

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  • Novaslo
    replied
    Originally posted by Grant JONES View Post
    Re: Possible - New idea for brick cutting table

    Great Jigs!
    Ive been lurking about for some time now (my better half thinks its been far too long wihtout some WFO action) as I go through the process of planning my build. 1000mm (40').
    Can I ask please what you refer to with bevel and angle.
    I can see why the sides of the brick need to be cut to allow the bricks along side to sit tighter together. Is this what you refer to as the bevel?
    What then is the angle cut side and why is it needed.
    Sorry for the newbie questions? Just tryin to make the least amount of mistakes possible.
    Grant
    First off, by following Mr Chipsters advice...you will learn that it is all you need. It works perfectly. Takes some studying as you start to get your jig right and a bit of trial and error but after a few cuts, you will be rocking and rolling. The angle cut on the side will reduce or remove the V that happens when you take a square brick and put it into a sperical structure or design. As you tilt the bricks and put them together, you will get a rather large V gap that you really want to remove.

    The gaps or the mortarless design is a preference and likely won't change how your oven performs and cooks.
    But the biggest thing to realize now as you start your build....the inside of the dome is your masterpiece. That is the part that everyone will look at as you cook. Including YOU! Take your time and be a craftsman on that part. It will be SO worth it.

    Get you gaps nice and small and tight and you will be one Proud Pizziola !!
    Hope that helps.

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  • fremen325
    replied
    Yeager,

    The issue is you need a compound bevel especially as you get to the upper rows of the oven.

    Greg

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  • Yeager
    replied
    This may be a dumb question, but rather than build a jig can you just use the miter/bevel on the Harbor freight saw? http://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-2...saw-69275.html It says the bevel should only be set at 0, 22, or 45 (because the tray is only set for those), but not sure if you could mitigate that by having a 3/4" piece of wood that goes above that and raise the blade height.

    The Harbor freight saw is pretty attractive at $279 right now, what else could be considered?

    thanks,
    Yeager

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  • DavidApp
    replied
    Hello Joegeds

    You will need to cut the bricks in half to form a smooth dome so you may as well cut them at an angle to reduce the mortar lines on the inside of the dome. It is better to have as little mortar exposed to the fire as possible.
    The first chains of bricks will meet closely but as you get higher in the dome the gaps will increase.

    David

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  • joegeds
    replied
    Re: Possible - New idea for brick cutting table

    Dumb question here: Why do you need to cut the brick? Why not just fill around the brick on the outside of the dome with mortar?

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  • mrchipster
    replied
    Re: Possible - New idea for brick cutting table

    Ok, this is a common problem with geometry. The center of the second cut is the center of the cut through the center of the brick. Not the start of the cut. Through the brick.

    I assume you get a smaller brick as the second one. What you need to do is find the point for the second cut that gives you two bricks of the same size.

    Based on what you told me, measure the width of both of your bricks, find the difference and divide that difference in half. The result is how far to move over for the second cut to make both bricks the same size.

    Here is an example.

    Brick One width 4.5 inches
    Brick two width 3.5 inches
    4.5-3.5=1.0
    1.0/2 = .5

    Move the second cut .5 over from where it was the first made wrong.
    Mark that spot on your jig and you will be able to repeat the same size bricks over and over.

    It may need a little fine tuning to get the bricks exactly the same but it is easily done after a couple of bricks, and the bricks are not wasted just use them near your inner arch, no one revert sees those anyway.
    Last edited by mrchipster; 06-25-2015, 06:25 PM.

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  • FrankV
    replied
    Re: Possible - New idea for brick cutting table

    Chip

    Hope things are well... need your advice my friend...Todd

    have everything going and ready to start my base is done. I created some wood bricks to practice the cuts and understand the principal associated with the jig. So I make my 3 cuts but I end up with two commonly shaped bricks but my finished bricks are two different sizes. Is the second cut based on starting on the centre mark??? I am hoping you can provide me with some guidance.....

    Thank you again

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  • mrchipster
    replied
    Re: Possible - New idea for brick cutting table

    You will be able to achieve greater angles if you put the hinge under the blade and if you put the cutting jig table on the right side instead of the left. You will get a lot mor vertical clearance.

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  • fremen325
    replied
    Re: Possible - New idea for brick cutting table

    My Chicago Tools (from Harbor Freight) saw doesnt have enough clearance to use 2x4 pieces so I used two pieces of MDO scrap that a wood working friend gave me. I am going to try using a bolt with 2 wingnuts to control the height of the board (which sets the bevel angle). I am hoping that I can clear the brick dust out of the threads with an air compressor gun.

    Today was my tool building day as I ran of brick and the brickyard does not get the next shipment of firebrick until tomorrow. (Apparently a large number of people in the Durham, NC, USA area are building fireplaces or brick ovens as the brick sales guy said he has sold several pallets at 500 bricks each of the firebrick in the past few weeks. At ~210 bricks per 42" oven, that is 6 or 7 ovens!!)

    Leave a comment:


  • mrchipster
    replied
    Re: Possible - New idea for brick cutting table

    Colin,

    Ok, now that is a real jig. And truly "a new improved version".... Fantastic
    Last edited by mrchipster; 06-07-2015, 06:14 AM.

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  • oasiscdm
    replied
    Re: Possible - New idea for brick cutting table

    here's my version. Knew i would be building a second oven so designed a permanent solution.

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  • mrchipster
    replied
    Re: Possible - New idea for brick cutting table

    I was using a 14 inch saw with adjustable height cutting blade.

    If you make the jig out of thinner materials... Even metal. It will still work. Having the brick support table on the opposite side of the motor and drive axle will give you additional space to work with.

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  • Mullins
    replied
    Re: Possible - New idea for brick cutting table

    Originally posted by mrchipster View Post
    The cutting of the bricks then becomes very simple.

    1) Set the desired bevel angle on the jig by shimming the upper board to the desired angle. This gets rid of the inverted V's.

    2) Set the brick on the left side of the jig so as to remove enough of the right side of the brick to get a full cut on the brick. Make cut #1.

    3) Turn the brick over 180 degrees, leaving the freshly cut side on the right.

    4) Move the brick to the right to position for cut #2 and make cut #2.

    5) turn brick over 180 degrees one more time, leaving newly cut side on the right again.

    6) Move brick to the right to position for cut #3. and make the final cut.

    You now have two identical dome bricks with 3 cuts.

    Note: when cutting bricks into 3's it is advisable to cut both ends off of the brick before making the final brick section otherwise the brick section will be small and hard to hold.

    Chip
    It has taken me a small bit of time to get my head around this, but I think I have it now (from a concept and how it works point of view).

    Very old thread I know, but on the saws people are using, could it work on a fixed height saw? I.e saw is fixed 5 inches above the table? If I was to use two 2x6s, there is not enough space for the brick to fit between them and the saw?

    Is there a new improved version of this type of jig also that anyone is aware of?

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:

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