It's been absolutely ages since I wrote anything on Forno Bravo.
I want to add a very tall stove-pipe on top of my oven. Please see the attached diagram. I intend to support it with the a brace near the top (and perhaps a second brace near the middle). The brace will attach to a free-standing pole. Since the top of the stove-pipe will be around 21' above the "higher" ground (two-level with retaining wall) and I want to brace it about 4' below the top, I need about 17' of post above the ground. I have about 3' of "hole depth" to work with, as you can see in the diagram. This hole is the gap between a 3' retaining wall and the back of the stove stand. I figure I'll just stand a 20' 4x4 or 4x6 post (pressure treated I would imagine) up in the gap and fill around it with 3' of concrete. I'm extremely weary of merely placing the pole on a metal bracket above ground in the concrete since I can't imagine such a bracket could hold up nearly 17' of post with no side arms or guy-wires.
I have numerous detailed ideas and questions. First, notice in the diagram that the bottom of the hole is concrete, not dirt, since the foundation extends beyond the stand all the way to the retaining wall (minus an inch or two). I figure I'll put a few inches of gravel in the bottom to assist drainage. I also had the idea of wrapping the below-ground portion of the timber in heavy plastic to separate it from the concrete I pour around it. I would then poke holes in the very bottom of the plastic (which will sit against the gravel and won't touch the new concrete) so that any water that gets inside the plastic will drain out the bottom. Does this sound crazy? Does anyone ever wrap wood in plastic before setting it in concrete? Seems to make intuitive sense to me but I can find very few references to such an approach. It would prevent the concrete from seeping water into the wood, prevent the wood from wicking water from the concrete while it sets, and finally, it also might make it possible to lift the entire pole out of the footing to replace it. It may effective "rest" in the footing instead of being locked in, which would make replacement a cinch. Would this work? I'll also extend the new concrete above ground and slope it down away from the post to minimize seepage into the post of course.
Is is possible to "seal" the plastic, above ground, to the post so water can't easily flow down inside the plastic?
In general, what do you think of this? Like I said, I'm not comfortable with placing the pole entirely above ground. I simply can't imagine it would be sturdy. Does that sound like a reasonable concern? Any other thoughts on this overall project? Are there completely different approaches I should consider? One idea I'm kicking around is a metal flagpole, although I doubt my wife will permit something so ugly in the yard.
Any advice at all? At the most basic level, how would you support a very tall stove-pipe with a single free-standing pole and no other supports (no arms or guy-wires or anything since it would clutter up the yard)?
Thanks!
I want to add a very tall stove-pipe on top of my oven. Please see the attached diagram. I intend to support it with the a brace near the top (and perhaps a second brace near the middle). The brace will attach to a free-standing pole. Since the top of the stove-pipe will be around 21' above the "higher" ground (two-level with retaining wall) and I want to brace it about 4' below the top, I need about 17' of post above the ground. I have about 3' of "hole depth" to work with, as you can see in the diagram. This hole is the gap between a 3' retaining wall and the back of the stove stand. I figure I'll just stand a 20' 4x4 or 4x6 post (pressure treated I would imagine) up in the gap and fill around it with 3' of concrete. I'm extremely weary of merely placing the pole on a metal bracket above ground in the concrete since I can't imagine such a bracket could hold up nearly 17' of post with no side arms or guy-wires.
I have numerous detailed ideas and questions. First, notice in the diagram that the bottom of the hole is concrete, not dirt, since the foundation extends beyond the stand all the way to the retaining wall (minus an inch or two). I figure I'll put a few inches of gravel in the bottom to assist drainage. I also had the idea of wrapping the below-ground portion of the timber in heavy plastic to separate it from the concrete I pour around it. I would then poke holes in the very bottom of the plastic (which will sit against the gravel and won't touch the new concrete) so that any water that gets inside the plastic will drain out the bottom. Does this sound crazy? Does anyone ever wrap wood in plastic before setting it in concrete? Seems to make intuitive sense to me but I can find very few references to such an approach. It would prevent the concrete from seeping water into the wood, prevent the wood from wicking water from the concrete while it sets, and finally, it also might make it possible to lift the entire pole out of the footing to replace it. It may effective "rest" in the footing instead of being locked in, which would make replacement a cinch. Would this work? I'll also extend the new concrete above ground and slope it down away from the post to minimize seepage into the post of course.
Is is possible to "seal" the plastic, above ground, to the post so water can't easily flow down inside the plastic?
In general, what do you think of this? Like I said, I'm not comfortable with placing the pole entirely above ground. I simply can't imagine it would be sturdy. Does that sound like a reasonable concern? Any other thoughts on this overall project? Are there completely different approaches I should consider? One idea I'm kicking around is a metal flagpole, although I doubt my wife will permit something so ugly in the yard.
Any advice at all? At the most basic level, how would you support a very tall stove-pipe with a single free-standing pole and no other supports (no arms or guy-wires or anything since it would clutter up the yard)?
Thanks!
Comment