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  • #16
    G'day Barry,
    Photo no 2 shows the original castor base which I didn't use as I switched to fork bolt. It also shows the clamp fitted which I haven't used yet, I just position the brick with the IT and move on, no need to clamp.
    One thing I have asked about but not really found a solution is when I move the tool out of the way the brick does move slightly but because the mortar is wet there is flex and it goes back. When laying bricks very high on the dome, and actually needing the clamp to hold till dry, I'm not sure how getting the IT out will go. I have thought I could sand some metal away below the centre point??
    I am only on level 4 of the dome so far. I didn't sleeve the hole for the fork bolt. Additionally I'm only using a 50 mm (2 inch) floor paver so I didn't have much height to work with. I drilled a very tight hole in the piece of timber you can see in photo no 1 (the smaller brown piece screwed to the white piece) and used large washers against the timber either side. I used 2 nuts to lock together underneath and have found the whole assembly tight enough so far.
    The 2 nuts are in a hole in the white piece of timber which is smaller than the removed pavers to allow packing spacers to finalise the position in the centre.
    I like the fact that Chach can simply remove his tool and I guess that would definitely require sleeving, and sufficient height.
    In photo 1 you can see a square piece of metal welded on the shaft. The reason for that is a piece of timber etc can be clamped on at the correct height and prevent the brick level drooping as the row approaches the arch. Apparently this can be a problem, look up " dreaded droop". I haven't used the feature yet but may do in future. I do however have welders, a lathe and other machinery which makes life easy when making the IT.
    Hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions.
    Regards
    Greg
    Adelaide, Australia.

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    • #17
      As you move up in the higher courses, gravity comes into play. I set the brick with the IT then moved to the next one but I used a notch stick to hold the brick in place. It does slow things down but it is what it is. I also made a narrower L bracket for the upper courses. A slight bevel on the bottom of the bracket makes it easier to move.
      Click image for larger version

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      Russell
      Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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      • #18
        ChachP3 Stoaker Thank you! Ok - makes sense. Sorry to keep the questions coming - what was the "pencil holder apparatus? I saw Utah-Russell with it and I'm not sure what that is that holds the pencil - and not completely clear how it worked to trace the outside line of the dome over the full brick? (and the inside) - do you have any help to clarify that?

        Also - going hemispherical - a number suggest that dropping the height an inch or so improves heat and lessens fuel. Have you found the higher, full-height dome works fine? would you lower it if you had to again?

        Thanks again
        Barry
        You are welcome to visit my build HERE

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