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It is only being used as temporary under slab support of wet concrete. It will not be exposed to the elements, it will not provide any on going structural support, and shouldn't be an issue of any kind as it will just be the top of his wood bin.
The only problem is see in using hardie board in this setting would be if he decided to tile the ceiling of his wood bin and that would be just plain silly.
Get what ever product your builder supply has. I think Bunnings is a common chain in Australia.
thanks for your post, can you clarify for me what you mean by the above?
where is the concrete falling?
btw
rebar, should I use 12mm or 16mm?
concrete should I order normal 20mpa or should I get 30mpa?
If you used particle board you would have needed to fit it closely between the bricks of your stand so it could be removed down and out later. The gap between the stand brick and the particle board creates a potential gap that would allow for the concrete to escape through. This is eliminated by using the cement board.
12 mm will be fine, support them in the middle of the slab or just below the middle on an 8 x 8 inch grid wire tied together, keep the ends at least 2 inches from the sides of the slab. And pour 3.5 - 4 inches thick here in the US we use a 2x4 lumber for the form or a 2x 6 if overlap is needed. Real dimensions in inches 1.625 x 3.5 or 1.625 x 5.5.
Standard concrete is just fine. Use gravel mix concrete like used for walkways and driveways not sand mix. High strength concrete is not required.
managed to dig out my circular saw and everything else I need so fingers crossed tomorrow all is going to happen with my slab, any extra tips before tomorrow would be most appreciated
hi again everyone
got another quick question, I was going to use cement sheet to hold concrete in place while wet. is this what you call Hardibacker? if so then what thickens should I use and considering my base shape would one long plank in centre of both "chambers" with couple of sticks holding it up be enough, assuming that outer edges would rest on bircks?
or should I forget hardy backer and go for particle board and then remove it once done?
TIA
Cement board, hardibacker, tile board, durock, are all similar products, the price difference between 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch is so slight that I used 1/2 inch.
Your base design has a middle support but I would add a few more support points, this stuff may seem strong but it will sag a bit under the load of wet concrete.
I would place another temporary support front to back down the middle and then one in the center of each quarter.
Because of the design of your base, fitting and removing particle board would be more work than logical, the cement board can be left in place and overlap the brick for support and creating its own seal against wet concrete falling out the bottom.
What ever you use for support make sure to use shims so you can remove. The shims make it easier to get the temporary supports out.
hi again everyone
got another quick question, I was going to use cement sheet to hold concrete in place while wet. is this what you call Hardibacker? if so then what thickens should I use and considering my base shape would one long plank in centre of both "chambers" with couple of sticks holding it up be enough, assuming that outer edges would rest on bircks?
or should I forget hardy backer and go for particle board and then remove it once done?
guys thank you very much for all the comments, I always over thing every project and now I can sleep better
with bit of luck I will manage to get my slab going over next few days so expect few more worry questions
Me, personally, wouldn't care too much now regarding the weather - unless it was 'bucketing' down and I was still trying to lay a course or pour a 'slab'.
By the time you 'box' up the 'slab', set your levels/reo etc - there's a day in itself, well for me anyway
Frost bite, in Australia? can you see any penguins, no, then it will be alright.
The different colours are due to dampness.
I have seen penguins on Phillip Island does that count?
I'm in Drouin (west Gippsland) and we do get frost on our cars in a morning sometimes with temperature at night at 0C-1C few times last week so that is why I worry a bit.
should I forget about it and let it be? also should I keep on covering it at night to protect from low temperature and winds or I worry too much for nothing?
if I stop covering it at night is it safe to leave top bricks open without any cover from rain that then sits inside the brick holes?
How was your mortar batch? Consistent? That could be a reason for the uneven shades. Although, the brick letterbox I'm doing at the moment the ratio of cement/lime/sand wouldn't be exactly 'spot-on' and has dried consistent.
mix was consistent, (measured with bucket not shovels) but couple of batches were little wetter then others but same sand/cement/lime ratio all the way from top to bottom
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