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  • CrocAu
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    Originally posted by brickie in oz View Post
    It looks like it, if it is the top surface is completely waterproof for 3 months out in the weather, if its orange tongue oil it firkst.
    are you saying I should worry about the baking paper then?

    EDIT: weather stopped me today but I did get the main part of the outer frame done so need one day with good weather to finish this

    btw I got some spare rebar and my base is little larger then most from what I seen should I add 2 extra members ? what is normal spacing 300mm?
    Last edited by CrocAu; 05-30-2013, 02:05 AM.

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  • brickie in oz
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    Originally posted by CrocAu View Post
    we call it yellow tongue
    It looks like it, if it is the top surface is completely waterproof for 3 months out in the weather, if its orange tongue oil it firkst.

    Leave a comment:


  • CrocAu
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    thanks again everyone

    Leave a comment:


  • mrchipster
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    Originally posted by CrocAu View Post
    it is subfloor board down under we call it yellow tongue



    quick google indicates that parchment paper = baking paper? is that correct? if so then that is great as I got giant 300meter roll here
    Correct baking paper = parchment paper

    Leave a comment:


  • CrocAu
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    Originally posted by stonecutter View Post
    I suspect you have Masonite and not particle board...at least that what it looks like in the picture.
    it is subfloor board down under we call it yellow tongue

    Originally posted by mrchipster View Post
    Another good trick for a small area like this is parchment paper laid over the particle board, it can be taped on the underside at the seams to seal it together and will release very easy when you take the board out

    Chip
    quick google indicates that parchment paper = baking paper? is that correct? if so then that is great as I got giant 300meter roll here

    Leave a comment:


  • mrchipster
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    Originally posted by CrocAu View Post
    I have put shiny side up so fingers crossed it wont be too bad and I plan to rub it with a lot of cooking oil, should I do more? also how soon can i remove my form? i figure the longer i leave it in place the harder it will be to remove.
    also any tips on how to get top finished nice and smooth?
    now that this "thing" is taking its shape I can't believe how HUGE it is :O
    Another good trick for a small area like this is parchment paper laid over the particle board, it can be taped on the underside at the seams to seal it together and will release very easy when you take the board out

    Chip

    Leave a comment:


  • stonecutter
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    I suspect you have Masonite and not particle board...at least that what it looks like in the picture. Give it another liberal coat just before you pour the concrete in...no standing puddles, just wipe it down. Leave the form for 7 days and keep the top of the slab covered with plastic.

    Once you screed the slab level, use a mag float to smooth it out. It will close up the concrete and give you more 'shine' than a wooden float.

    Leave a comment:


  • CrocAu
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    I have put shiny side up so fingers crossed it wont be too bad and I plan to rub it with a lot of cooking oil, should I do more? also how soon can i remove my form? i figure the longer i leave it in place the harder it will be to remove.
    also any tips on how to get top finished nice and smooth?
    now that this "thing" is taking its shape I can't believe how HUGE it is :O

    Leave a comment:


  • stonecutter
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    Originally posted by CrocAu View Post
    almost there :O
    can someone please have a look at my picture and tell me if it is ok to have particle board 10-15mm below top brick edge?

    I can bring it up but unless there is some trouble i'm asking for other than using little bit of extra concrete then I would prefer use that time on finishing up my frame box tomorrow morning.

    also i'm going to make small 25mm "lip" edge around the outside brick to hide brick<>concrete line that can look bit ugly, anything I should look out for with this idea?
    Yes that is O.K. No problems with creating a small ledger either. Remember to add some kind of release to your form...that stuff will really take the water in.

    Leave a comment:


  • CrocAu
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    almost there :O
    can someone please have a look at my picture and tell me if it is ok to have particle board 10-15mm below top brick edge?

    I can bring it up but unless there is some trouble i'm asking for other than using little bit of extra concrete then I would prefer use that time on finishing up my frame box tomorrow morning.

    also i'm going to make small 25mm "lip" edge around the outside brick to hide brick<>concrete line that can look bit ugly, anything I should look out for with this idea?

    Leave a comment:


  • Gulf
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    Originally posted by reccymech View Post
    Just to 'chime' in on another fellow WFO builders thread.

    Regarding the concrete base. If I already lay a moisture barrier - builders plastic down on the slab, is it a bit of 'over egging the custard' if I lay some moisture barrier down for when I get around to pouring the base for the dome?

    I tend to over engineer 'stuff'.
    If you are talking about the structural slab for the hearth. It would be great to add another layer of plastic and/or sealer on top of it but, under the insulation layer .

    Leave a comment:


  • reccymech
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    Just to 'chime' in on another fellow WFO builders thread.

    Regarding the concrete base. If I already lay a moisture barrier - builders plastic down on the slab, is it a bit of 'over egging the custard' if I lay some moisture barrier down for when I get around to pouring the base for the dome?

    I tend to over engineer 'stuff'.

    Leave a comment:


  • stonecutter
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    Yeah, cooking oil is ok. You can use the hardieboard too, but it should be cut short and dropped out after the slab cures. The gap isn't really a big deal if you block it with something, even rolled newspaper. The focus is on supporting the center.
    Last edited by stonecutter; 05-28-2013, 07:49 AM.

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  • CrocAu
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    Originally posted by stonecutter View Post
    Just use something suited for exterior work like durock and you'll be fine.

    The suggestion was made to lay the cement board on the block bond beam, to avoid creating a gap. There is always moisture present when you have any two materials in contact with each other outside..it's called a condensation point. That said, a permanent placement of hardieboard against concrete isn't a good idea. Unless you want something that will swell up and get moldy over time.

    It makes no difference to me what gets used, but it's better to have the facts about product limitations before using them.
    thanks for your input stonecutter, not huge fan of mold so now you got me thinking again about this, I do have that opening in the middle so if i'm smart about it I think I can manage with few extra supports get particle boards there instead, I figure that if I have 2 sections at the back then I will be able to get it out once done, is cooking oil safe as lube on particle board? want to make sure I don't have extra trouble getting it off with my limited access space

    Leave a comment:


  • stonecutter
    replied
    Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion

    Just use something suited for exterior work like durock and you'll be fine.

    The suggestion was made to lay the cement board on the block bond beam, to avoid creating a gap. There is always moisture present when you have any two materials in contact with each other outside..it's called a condensation point. That said, a permanent placement of hardieboard against concrete isn't a good idea. Unless you want something that will swell up and get moldy over time.

    It makes no difference to me what gets used, but it's better to have the facts about product limitations before using them.

    Leave a comment:

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