Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
i decided to go with very simple and cheap option that will be easy to install and also give option to add more protection from elements if needed
first i will render/seal my dome
then i will use flanged pool posts in the rear of my slab, and also at the front but with some 20cm setback and bit taller than the ones at the back to get rain moving down that direction
then will use same type of posts but without flanged bottom to build top frame and then finally mount some left over stratco colorbond sheeting i used in my old house for pergola.
this will give me good protection from top, also i will extend front fair bit past the oven entrance, simple one day job and if in future i find it isn't enough i can easily add side panels
doing so will leave my structural cracks in view so i'm going to tile the slab around, on the top i understand i should use some pvc underlay to prevent further movement around cracks from showing on tiles/grout but how do i tackle the vertical sides? to prevent this problem?
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
Originally posted by oasiscdm View PostDavid think you are referring to the wrong person?
Croc,
The flue can go either through the ridge cap or further down, it depends how you build your roof and what is more convenient. The decktite seals to the roof with silicone and tek screws.
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
Originally posted by david s View PostColin,
If you're building a dog house around your oven then you are better to leave the outside porous and not add the rendered shell and waterproofing. That way it can breathe inside the doghouse. Regarding the flue seal where it will penetrate through the roof, you need a thing called a Decktite. Our local Bunnings has them, but if yours doesn't a plumbing supplies place will. If you have a single walled flue then get the orange one (higher temp rated) if using a double walled flue you can use the black one (lower temp rating)
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
yes I wont be doing render if i decide to go with dog house
does the dektite works well if i shoot my flute right in the center of roof ridge? or it has to be on flat side of the roof?
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
Croc,
If you're building a dog house around your oven then you are better to leave the outside porous and not add the rendered shell and waterproofing. That way it can breathe inside the doghouse. Regarding the flue seal where it will penetrate through the roof, you need a thing called a Decktite. Our local Bunnings has them, but if yours doesn't a plumbing supplies place will. If you have a single walled flue then get the orange one (higher temp rated) if using a double walled flue you can use the black one (lower temp rating)Last edited by david s; 08-05-2013, 03:13 AM.
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
I can't speak to Oz supplies - but I built my housing out of steel studs. Attached the bottom runner with something they call "Tapcons" over here. They work great for cement anchors. Three or four per side did the trick.
I think others have used stucco right over concrete board on the housing - but personally, I went the extra step and used paper + mesh. Takes a couple hours and now I don't need to worry about my render chipping off in huge chunks!
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
thinking now of building dog house to cover my oven
got few questions
steel frame materials? bunnings will have it all?
how would one attach bottom runner around concrete slab edge, is it safe to use dynabolts so close to the edge?
is there any cement sheeting i can use that wont need wire mesh to hold render and also how much space i need to leave for render
roof covering, what would be the easiest option and how to tackle flute penetration so it is sealed?
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
My largest crack at the back closed up fair bit, I would say it is about half the width. Would this indicate that it was my long day of mid size fire being the cause since gap got smaller after cool down? I guess that is sort of good news and all I have to worry about is to hide the cosmetic crack?
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
Originally posted by deejayoh View PostIf you can, pull up a couple of bricks from the floor and check the insulation with a moisture meter - just to see what you are dealing with.
Moisture meters are pretty cheap and good to have for checking firewood anyway.
today after almost 24hours of no fire whole oven was still around 200F and floor around 140F
slab from below was around 90F
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
If you can, pull up a couple of bricks from the floor and check the insulation with a moisture meter - just to see what you are dealing with.
Moisture meters are pretty cheap and good to have for checking firewood anyway.
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
Originally posted by stonecutter View PostThe first step will be don't let anymore water infiltrate the insulation. Then the next thing will be try and keep heat in the oven as long as possible...long burns to suck the water out of the insulation. You don't need an inferno either.
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
Originally posted by CrocAu View Postyes it would be wet a bit, it was set on bed of mortar so that would bring some water in to it plus all the cleaning, etc would put more water in it.
with all the troubles today i'm now not 100% sure how to go ahead with rest of my curing fires, dome seem to be just about ready for the big fire with today reading ~700F after mid size fire but having slab getting so hot i worry about starting same size fires tomorrow so i don't make the cracks even bigger so any tips on how to get that water out from my cal-sil boards would be great
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
Originally posted by deejayoh View PostAs Stonecutter says, that's not going to crack your slab - but it is a surprising amount of heat going into the slab. Checked back in your thread and see you have 2 inches of cal-sil. Is that wet? Thinking that might be why your floor is not heating.
with all the troubles today i'm now not 100% sure how to go ahead with rest of my curing fires, dome seem to be just about ready for the big fire with today reading ~700F after mid size fire but having slab getting so hot i worry about starting same size fires tomorrow so i don't make the cracks even bigger so any tips on how to get that water out from my cal-sil boards would be great
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
Originally posted by CrocAu View Postjust to double check in regards to your comment at the very start of this post
I noticed just before that temperature was just over 65C on the bottom side of the structural slab some time after fire stopped, when i mentioned 45C before it was with mid-large fire going and I was expecting this to be the peak but it seem heat was moving slowly that way with whole slab acting as heatsink and got hotter from embers after longer period of time when i didn't even consider checking temperatures so yesterday could have been bit higher as well later on during the day after main fire died down but there was lots of embers inside.
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Re: house brick for stand, quick quetsion
thanks for that last post, it really took some weight of my shoulders at the end of quite a bad day
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