New (2nd) build in Brisbane

[applor]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

Well I've been thinking and I've come up with a plan which I think we will be going ahead with (drawn to scale)

Going to use mortared finished Blocks (like my last build) and thinking of going with these:
Masonry Blocks South Queensland - GB Honed from Austral Masonry

Honed Nickel.

The main WFO structure #1 will be 1.4mx1.4m in a U shape and going with a concrete suspended slab. Apart from the size it will be the same as my last build but I am also bricking up higher and filling the interior area with Hebel and then tiling over the top with a flush finish to the deck as planned.
The other bench area #2 will be Hebel panel and going to tile the top and sides to finish it.

I have decided to go this route since I had already anchored that reo bar in the concrete which I don't want to cut off and if I am doing blocks I might as well use the GB masonry ones so I don't have to render.
I am going with the concrete slab again as the Hebel would need to be custom sized and require at least 3 lintels - in short it won't end up saving me any money and would be less structurally sound.

structure #3 will have the BBQ sitting on top of it and structure #4 is just two columns of block supporting the granite bench.

The outdoor table area will be below the granite bench area and below that is the entry door to inside.

Oh and the 'gym' is just my bench press and we're looking at putting up a trellis just below that area and growing something (Hedera helix perhaps?) up it to cover off that part.

[cobblerdave]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

I think the design of base needs to be updated. A bond beam will work fine if properly reinforced without the heavy angle iron supports. There is an element of overdesign that is not required in all situations. It can be overthought.

IMHO

G'day
Yes the FB plans are a bit of overkill, but they were conceived to take in frost heave and earthquakes which are the Nth American experience. It seems that the block and 75 mm power panel is shaping up to be the Aust alternative in terms of cost and ease of build.
But.... On the other side of the coin, my oven has grown somewhat from the 160 odd firebricks of its original dome construction. I would not even guess on how many bricks are now in its structure now. That was only possible because I knew the stand would handle it.
As for the forum rewriting the plans .....James has long ago left it up to the forum, there would be a few hurt egos on that path
The Aussies have a section .... Let's use it ...local conditions ....local knowledge

Regards
Dave

[oasiscdm]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

Woops brisse already covered it.

If you look at mine the main one was to pieces of angle welded together back to back, then set into the Hegel block base.

[oasiscdm]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

Applor
There called lintels I believe. Metal supports that span two points across a structure.

[brissie]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

When I asked about the bond beam, it seems I have mistakenly referred to the wrong thing.

You are obviously talking about the 12mm reobar that is run inside the besser blocks to add strength.

I was referring to the thick steel square shaped cross supports you used to support the Hebel powerpanel.

What is the correct term for that?

I had not planned to use bond beam support as you have described.

The steel in my build is just fence post steel left over from another project. Its not designed for the task, but it does add strength to my design. You can get steel lintel's designed for this job. A proper lintel would take much more load.

Search - Our range | Bunnings Warehouse

Davids, I think the U shaped blocks are generally referred to as lintel blocks.

Steve.

[applor]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

When I asked about the bond beam, it seems I have mistakenly referred to the wrong thing.

You are obviously talking about the 12mm reobar that is run inside the besser blocks to add strength.

I was referring to the thick steel square shaped cross supports you used to support the Hebel powerpanel.

What is the correct term for that?

I had not planned to use bond beam support as you have described.

[david s]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

[QUOTE=brissie;177786]Applor FYI,

just a howto...

"Bond beam blocks are known as "knock out bond beam blocks", for a reason. The blocks have the central section cast with gaps. This allows the weak section to be knocked out. The bit that is knocked out is used to fill the core, so concrete is not wasted and fills the entire column."

Although knockouts can be used to create a bond beam they are not the same as bond beam blocks. Bond beam blocks are a solid u shape without a cavity in the bottom like knockout blocks. They provide a much neater finish on the bottom and require less concrete to fill because of this. You can get them from block manufacturers.

[oasiscdm]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

Hi Applpr

Forgot to ask is oven a kit?

[oasiscdm]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

If you reduce the span by cantileverig the Hebel over the front, back and sides it will increase the strength enormously and you may be able to do away with the centre pier. Regarding the Hebel degrading from heat, this will not be an issue if you have some cal sil board between it and the floor. Likewise a 10 mm gap will be adequately bridged by the cal sil

HI Applor

This is what I did with my build.

Also I priced the 120mm thick powerpanels and it was quite pricy compared to the 75mm panels.

[brissie]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

I think the design of base needs to be updated. A bond beam will work fine if properly reinforced without the heavy angle iron supports. There is an element of overdesign that is not required in all situations. It can be overthought.

IMHO

Yes, I agree Geenman. Keep it simple.

[Greenman]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

I think the design of base needs to be updated. A bond beam will work fine if properly reinforced without the heavy angle iron supports. There is an element of overdesign that is not required in all situations. It can be overthought.

IMHO

[brissie]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

Applor FYI,

just a howto...

Bond beam blocks are known as "knock out bond beam blocks", for a reason. The blocks have the central section cast with gaps. This allows the weak section to be knocked out. The bit that is knocked out is used to fill the core, so concrete is not wasted and fills the entire column.

Note is practice you may need to add a bit more mud (plaster/render) to seal the vertical column, so when you concrete the beam you do not wast concrete. Only the corner columns need to be filled with concrete

Note I purchased most of the bond beam blocks from Centenary, because they had them in stock, but where more expensive then other places for standard blocks. It pays to shop around.

Grey Besser Blocks | Centenary Landscaping Supplies | Brisbane, Queensland

[brissie]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

Yeah I'm leaning towards using bond beams now and finished blocks for the base.

Brissie: where did you buy your bond beams from and how much were they (and specs)?
Also, do they manufacture hebel powerpanel in custom thickness? 120mm thick powerpanel would be perfect for the new plan I am formulating. Otherwise I may have to pour a suspended slab.

I purchased the 150 bond blocks and standard 150 blocks from two different garden supply places. I was given a reasonable price for most of the blocks at one place, but they did not have many "knock out bond beam" blocks, so rang around and sourced the rest from another place. They cost 20% more from memory.

I purchased a cheap tile cutter wet saw, that can just cut through the wall thickness of the blocks, about $80 at Bunnings. A diamond wet saw cuts blocks like they are butter. Its easy to do, slow and steady.

My base is 1200 * 1200, and cut the every second end block to fit, and make up the gap, because I used 150/140 mm blocks and not 200 blocks.

I also bent deformed bar around the perimeter for re-enforcement of the bond beam. Bond beams make it strong and it holds everything together.

90 mm internal wall to make the H shape, The internal wall used brick ties to bond with the external walls. I can't see why you can't dry stack standard blocks. Use a construction adhesive to stick them together.

A 1200 * 1200 base size is not big, and its unlikely to get out of level if the first course is okay to start with. You may need to knock off any big defect lumps or bums with a hammer.

Fill the corners and bond bean with concrete, and your done. You could finish it by using the bagging technique I used, or render it.

Hope the info helps.

Steve.

Edit, my mud map. Use as guide only, it was used just so I could get my head around it. Note that half the half blocks are actually about three quarter, cut blocks to fit the gap. Only the sides need cutting. the front does not.

Edit2:
Sorry, correction my base is 1500*1200, but the idea is the same.

[david s]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

If you reduce the span by cantileverig the Hebel over the front, back and sides it will increase the strength enormously and you may be able to do away with the centre pier. Regarding the Hebel degrading from heat, this will not be an issue if you have some cal sil board between it and the floor. Likewise a 10 mm gap will be adequately bridged by the cal sil

[applor]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

Yeah I'm leaning towards using bond beams now and finished blocks for the base.

Brissie: where did you buy your bond beams from and how much were they (and specs)?
Also, do they manufacture hebel powerpanel in custom thickness? 120mm thick powerpanel would be perfect for the new plan I am formulating. Otherwise I may have to pour a suspended slab.