WFO CNR Build - Darwin

[terratree]

Thanks JR, that sounds like a good plan. As far as I can tell there is very little variation with these blocks.

Was thinking of putting a slight arris only along the bottom and sides of the block to help.

Much appreciated

J

[terratree]

Thanks Gulf, not an issue yet, just think the shear size and weight of these blocks could make it difficult.

J

[JRPizza]

Went for a long bike ride today and remembered what I should have added - funny how the brain works! Cut your wooden brick ever so slightly bigger than the brick you are going to replace it with, which will give you a way better chance of not having what we called at work an interference fit (brick bigger than the hole).

[terratree]

Well floor is finally cut, so I'm ready to start the first course in two weeks...annoying job getting in the way.

What is the best gauge for the stainless box (heat break) ? I do recall reading it just cant locate it. Wasnt originally planning on putting one in, but now think I should

Outer arch plan in pic. Not perfectly to scale.

• Have read that I should extend foamglas to keep blanket off the slab. I assume I should cut the Casil a little smaller then, to protect it ?
• No mortar between floor and first course - just the back if needed ?
• I plan on insulating oven with IFB's cut in half. (got a crate, cheap). Can I butt these straight against the blanket ? 3:1:1:1 mortar for the IFB's as well ?

Thanks for all the advice

J

[terratree]

Cut your wooden brick ever so slightly bigger than the brick you are going to replace it with

Good idea JR !!

Thanks

J

[terratree]

Some recent pics.

Probably shouldn't have done my first brick laying on the landing...where I'll be forever reminded of my very average work - oh well. Was shocked to see how quick the mortar dries.

Maybe an overkill having the IFB's on top of the foam glass, but I snagged a pallet of them relatively cheap (AUD $0.50 ea)

I used liquid nails to secure the upright IFB's to the foam glass, this worked well. Didnt think the heat would be an issue on the glue that far down. Back filled behind the IFB's with sand with a mortar cap. Mortar doesn't really want to stick to these sponges, not sure if there is a better mix for the gap behind them ?

I took the top ~1/4" face of the second course off to remove the inverted vee, but it really didnt seem to make a lot of difference (no photos, plan to go vertical tomoz) Not sure if it just needs a more aggressive slice off ?

Thanks all

J

[UtahBeehiver]

Nice work, all your Aussie WFO friends will be envious of $0.50 IFB. As you move up and the ID radius narrows, the inverted V will become more pronounced.

[terratree]

Thanks Russell,

Just to clarify - I assume you mean cut the front face of the brick (only) as in the attached ? Will this make more of a prominent overhang as the dome rises ?

Got the second course finished, and feeling a little more confident with tying in the inner arch. Tried a little white oxide on the red brick arch... kinda looks white

Appreciate the help

J

[UtahBeehiver]

NOT the face, you really only need to bevel the sides and it is not necessary to bevel the entire length of the side just near the interior face, probably abt an 1in or so. You can always do a bevel the entire side (s) but that's up to you. Are you doing a tapered inner arch, I highly recommend that you do. Harder up front but easier in long run. Makes tieing in dome to arch much smoother and easier.

[terratree]

Thanks Russell,

That makes more sense, I'll redo the pic and remove that one.

Yes, I intend to do a tapered inner arch. So the TDC arch brick will be longer than the remainder.

I actually wont have a single TDC, I'll have two - 11 and 1 oclock. I dont think this should matter. This assumes I wont have excessive mortar creep and throw 3 bricks over the left shoulder

One thing I've noticed about these bricks, after wetting them, is they appear to release a salt like powder when dried. Is this common with fire bricks ? They are new bricks.

Thanks for the help

J

[UtahBeehiver]

No two at the top will not matter. These two will be the longest bricks. Do not pre cut all the same, bricks on left of the top will be different than the bricks right of the top and they are not symmetrical. Use your IT to help establish the correct angles. Here is a pic from Mr. Chipster showing how the IT helps set the angles, notice how the change as you move down towards the floor, Although this is a partial arch, the concept is the same for a full semi arch.

[terratree]

Thanks Russell. So I noticed your inside arch, met your form at every course. Was that intentional ?

Pic attached of the third course intersection, and I'm heading away already. I just wanted to stagger the mortar joints and overlap onto each course for strength, where possible.

Am I on track here ?

J

[UtahBeehiver]

Something is off. PM me an email address and I will send you a PDF explaining the various point of the tapered arch brick. (Can't attach PDFs to post)

[terratree]

Something is off. PM me an email address and I will send you a PDF explaining the various point of the tapered arch brick. (Can't attach PDFs to post)

PM Sent Russell

[terratree]

Thanks again Russell, (I'm sounding like a broken record.)

So hoping this saves others from the same mistake. I didnt allow for the course bricks full depth, even thought I had read it several times. Head meet wall.

The cut followed the IT, but it protrudes way too far into the oven, which equates to a decent gap at the rear.

Pic attached that shows the fukc up, and where I believe I should have met. Please correct me if I'm still wrong

Will change course 4, so it meets correctly.

Thanks !

Jay