My Old Kentucky Dome

[Ken524]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Ken, why not aluminum foil so just in case some heat will escape will not burn the plastic film...

I'm only concerned that the plastic wrap does it's job while the concrete is setting. I don't want moisture from the concrete screwing up my insulation board. After that, it can burn up and disappear.

Ken

[gjbingham]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Mmmm, burning plastic! Blow the fumes my way Ken!

[Ken524]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

One hot fire ought to take care of it

[Ken524]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

I was able to get back to work today (hooray!). I'm happy to report that my soggy, squishy insulation board has dried out and is hard as a rock <sigh of relief>.

Today was insulation day. I bought some foam board from Office Depot and set it up around the oven. I inserted some plastic coated hardware cloth for additional support (why do they call it hardware cloth? )



I then mixed and poured 4 batches of vermiculite/portland cement. 5 buckets of vermic + 3/4 bucket of portland. I used a large plastic garbage can to mix it in. I think I'm about half done. I'll try to finish tomorrow.



The BIG question is when to pull the foam forms. I can't help but comment (like dozens of others) about how weird this stuff is and I wonder if it will hold it's shape or crumble when I pull the forms. I'll definitely pull the forms after I have some Hardibacker in place. If it all disintegrates, I'll just add loose-fill vermic.

Another question for you pros: Home Depot has both 1/4" and 1/2" Hardibacker. Is 1/4" adequate or do I need the 1/2"? Final finish will be stucco over the Hardibacker.

Thanks gang! If feels WONDERFUL to be in the WFO business again!

[gjbingham]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

I think we have 3/8th and 1/2 inch backer board here. I was just reading the signs today. Seems like the 1/2 inch is for laying tiles on walls. The 3/8th for tiles on flat surfaces. I didn't inquire so I'm not 100% sure on that. To be safe, the 1/2 inch might be a better choice at 2 bucks more per board.

[Frances]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Hey Ken! I'll bet it does feel good to be back in business!

One question: Why not just leave the foam forms in place? Shouldn't hurt and no one's going to see inside the enclosure anyway.

[Ken524]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

One question: Why not just leave the foam forms in place? Shouldn't hurt and no one's going to see inside the enclosure anyway.

Frances,

I actually considered that. Unless there is a catastrophic failure somewhere, the foam won't ever see any real heat above ambient. If they do, I'll have bigger problems to deal with .

I may just secure them with a bit more duct tape or aluminum tape and leave them be. Right now, some of the duct tape is having a hard time staying "stuck". Most of the boards are being supported by the steel studs. Leaving them in is certainly an option.

[Ken524]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

EaRtHqUaKe PROOF!

We awake this morning to quite a shake. The whole house was rattling along with the 5.3 quake that hit the central US this morning. I'm glad to report that there doesn't appear to be any damage to the oven.

I got out early this morning and finished up the vermiculite insulation. Glad that's done!

[Barberque boy]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Ken, 1/4" hardi board is designed for horizontal application and 1/2" can be used for either horizontal or vertical. In vertical application the 1/2" is treated just like sheet rock on 16" centers. I've enjoyed following your pictorial progress.

[Frances]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

EaRtHqUaKe PROOF!

That's the spirit - don't check the house for damage, but by gosh, the oven's still standing!!!

[vincent]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

It looks great Ken. As far as the backer board goes; I think that the 1/2 inch would be the best option. i've always used it for a wall application. Since it is going to be attached to steel studs screws will have to be used. This means that the head will have to be slightly counter sunk and the 1/2 has enough thickness. It will also result in a more rigid structure. To increase the strengh of the backer board tape and mud any seams from board to board. Use fiberglass mesh tape (just the type for sheetrock) and set it with thinset mortar. One last thing. Durock is an excellent product. You can cut it, nail it and screw it and it stays together. I was sold a product once that was actually just a fine graveled cement between two layers of nylon mesh. the edges crumbled when i cut it and nails had a tendency to partially pulverise the area around the nail head. I'd avoid it.

Vincent

[gjbingham]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Drifting away from the topic a bit...

Can anybody elaborate on the differences between Durock, Hardiboard and several other of the brands that are commonly used? They all seem the same to me.

Thanks (sorry Ken)

[Ken524]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

I really like George's question (above) about Durock, Hardiebacker, etc. I'm wondering the same thing and I suspect others have (or will have) the same question. I didn't want this great subject lost inside this thread so I started a new thread for it here:

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f9/c...html#post30077

[asudavew]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Isn't Hardiebacker board about a quarter of an inch and meant to place on walls for tiling?

And I think Durorock is meant for counter tops, etc.
I believe it is about a half inch thick. It can also be screwed down to wood floors to tile on top of. It adds support.

off to fire up the old WFO.....!

[Barberque boy]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Re: Durarock and Hardi board. Ive used them both in tile applications. And a lot of it will come down to the installers preference. Durarock and Wonder board are basically fiberglass mesh and a lite concrete. The Hardi board is a cement and almost a paper like fiber. It is much stiffer and more dense than Durarock. Ive seen them both immersed in water for well over a month and still hold their form. I don't know if you would go terribly wrong on either selection