My Old Kentucky Dome
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Ken H. - Kentucky
42" Pompeii
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
I have to agree with ajc on the tile. Porcelain is the way to go. I have an outside cabinet with a large cast iron sink and a tile countertop. Although its under the patio roof its right at the outside edge. It still gets rain and snow and i've never had a cracking problem. I believe that proper grouting is also critical. There are sealers to apply but being outside it will probably have to be reapplied on occassion. But i found a 2 part grout at Lowes. You mix an epoxy with it. The stuff seems to be bullet proof. The trick is to work quickly so it doesn't start to set up on you. I applied it with a grout float then wiped the tiles with a common grout sponge. It still looks like the day i applied it.Comment
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
I've used that epoxy grout too, on my mother in law's wall behind her cooktop. It's very durable and doesn't stain. It is a bit "spendy", though. However, as the man says, it's pretty much bulletproof, so it might be a good choice if you're worried about durability and stain resistance. WEAR GLOVES!Comment
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
This one is a keeper. Do other folks have experience with epoxy grout outside? Our slab granite joints were sealed (inside kitchen) with color-in epoxy. This sounds like something in the middle. How wide of a joint can you make with it?I've used that epoxy grout too, on my mother in law's wall behind her cooktop. It's very durable and doesn't stain. It is a bit "spendy", though. However, as the man says, it's pretty much bulletproof, so it might be a good choice if you're worried about durability and stain resistance. WEAR GLOVES!
JamesComment
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
I think the widest recommended joint was 1/8". The tiles I was using were porcelain. I don't think you can use it with just anything- I suspect it would stain natural stone, although I am not sure. It's pretty sticky and you have to use vinegar to clean up- but it was pretty straightforward to work with otherwise.Comment
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Went and did my homework and refreshed my memory. The product is called Spectralock and is made by a company named Laticrete. Its a sanded grout so it can be used in wider grout lines.In a small line like an 1/8 inch it will be a courser texture because of the sand. The product information is at LATICRETE? International > HomeComment
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Super discussion! Thanks for all the input.Ken H. - Kentucky
42" Pompeii
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Ken,
I've started my oven (and my thread)...
What did you finally decide to use to coat your board with to prevent water issues. I got the Iso board and want to pour concrete around it (halfway up) then colored concrete the rest of the way and over the top (hope that makes sense). Basically I'll pour concrete all around my hearth to make it level with thefire brick entrance. I didn't want the board to suck out all of the water so I wanted to put something on it like a sealer.
Let me know.
Thanks
Dick
thebadgerComment
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Dick,
I haven't had a chance to do any more work yet. But when I pour my concrete up against the insulation board, I plan on using some Saran wrap to keep the concrete and board separate. Simple and easy.Ken H. - Kentucky
42" Pompeii
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Ken, just curious, how do you intend to "attach" this concrete to the hearth? Just an acid wash, or something more mechanical? I may run into this same situation with mine. If you had to do it over again, would you pour this concrete at the same time as your hearth, or add some rebar sticking up?
DarenComment
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
your post #230The idea (borrowed from others, of course) is to try to grab as much smoke leaving the oven and give it an easy way to flow up to the chimney. I made some 45deg cuts on the outer vent arch bricks. The next set of arch bricks will have similar cuts continuing the 45deg angle up to the top of the vent
Hi Ken, what is the size of your opening vent? I like the way you modeled it...thinking to copy it, happy with that kind of transition?...thanksComment
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Daren,
I think an acid wash would be enough. There shouldn't be much stress on this part and it will be sealed from moisture.
Someone posted that they drilled holes in the hearth and dropped short pieces of rebar in. That seems like a good idea.
Another thought I have is to drill several small holes in the foundation and screw in some TapCon concrete screws, leaving them sticking up about an inch. Sort of like mini rebar. I think they would keep the landing from shifting if the new concrete doesn't adhere to the hearth.
Probably not. I had NO idea how I was going to finish this out. My plan changed a half dozen times before I poured the hearth, and it's changed another dozen times since the pourIf you had to do it over again, would you pour this concrete at the same time as your hearth, or add some rebar sticking up?
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Ken H. - Kentucky
42" Pompeii
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Carlo,
I'm out of town for the next several days so I can't measure. You can probably estimate fairly closely by counting bricks. I think the top of the opening is around 12 inches wide. The width is exactly a half brick. The vent box above it then tapers it down to an 8" square for the Duratech mount.
I didn't worry too much about measurements when building it. I just did it so it "looked" right
. Works great.
Ken H. - Kentucky
42" Pompeii
Pompeii Oven Construction Video Updated!
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Ken, why not aluminum foil so just in case some heat will escape will not burn the plastic film...I haven't had a chance to do any more work yet. But when I pour my concrete up against the insulation board, I plan on using some Saran wrap to keep the concrete and board separate.Comment





unfortunately) i just keep telling myself "all good things come to those who wait"
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