Hansen Horno

[Les]

Re: Hansen Horno

1. Cut brick in half at an angle.
2-3. Cut the ends of the brick at the same angle to form the wedge shape.
4-7. Cut one face of each piece at an angle to get the slope (about 10 degrees so far). This requires 2 cuts because the blade isn't big enough to cut through the whole face.

I think it's worth it - but with some mod's. Forget about the back - mortar is your friend. I cut mine in half - then focused on the side taper and vertical angle, believe me, that's enough. I tried to cut an entire course at once but it was not meant to be - the accuracy of your cuts will bite you in the end. You will have to make custom cuts about every three or four bricks. That was my experience. If you had a compound brick saw it would probably be a slam dunk - I bought what most have - the Harbor Freight. One more area of pain - when you get to the 10th or 11th course, the bricks become so narrow it's a bitch to hold them steady - again, it's all in the saw.

Les...

[dbhansen]

Re: Hansen Horno

Thanks Les. I think I will "cut back" on the taper cuts (pun intended) and use more mortar after course 4.

Nice pictures, Mike! Thanks for sharing. I've been through "da U.P." a few time myself.

[dvonk]

Re: Hansen Horno

I was going to make cuts your way, but I've gave up pretty soon, finding it too difficult to make it semi-automative - to cut all the brick for one chain, than mortaring. Arrangements took too much time for me, and now I feel I was right.
Small saw is not a good tool for that goal.

[dusty]

Re: Hansen Horno

Fantastic thread. I have been away for awhile, but this thead really caught my eye. Very impressive from foundation on up.

dusty

[dbhansen]

Re: Hansen Horno

Very impressive from foundation on up.

Thanks dusty! I'm mostly trying to copy the great work of those who came before me (i.e., other people on this forum), but your comments are appreciated.

[dusty]

Re: Hansen Horno

DB,
You are very polite and modest. I have been here long enough to observe that each summer the new generation of builders takes it to a slightly higher level. I like to think that myself and my contempararies did, but you obviously have...without question.
Keep posting. Soon I will try to post my progress as my oven is finished but my outdoor kitchen is still a bit away.

dusty

[mfiore]

Re: Hansen Horno

This is where I still get a little confused about cutting angles and bevels on the bricks. (By the way, which is the proper terminology. I see "bevel" and "angle" and "slopes" and I'm not sure if it means the sides or the tops or bottoms)

When you make the template, you use whole bricks (the photo is yours).


If you cut the faces of each brick to facilitate the slope, the brick faces will be shorter in vertical dimension. This no longer fits the original template. How is the lost space made up?

I hope that question makes sense.

[Les]

Re: Hansen Horno

If I understand your question correctly - you don't cut the face of the brick. When you shim up the back of the brick, it forces the dome to take shape. There will be a step, but it's minimal. Is that the issue? In regard to terminology - I don't have a clue either - seems like we are all over the planet, literally.

Les...

[mfiore]

Re: Hansen Horno

4-7. Cut one face of each piece at an angle to get the slope (about 10 degrees so far). This requires 2 cuts because the blade isn't big enough to cut through the whole face.[/INDENT]
.

Could you clarify what this cut (4-7) does, then? I understand you could tip up the brick with a wedge and fill in the gap with mortar. If you want to avoid using so much mortar, aren't builders cutting a "bevel" on the top or bottom of the brick to decrease this gap? If so, it seems this cut would go through the face of the brick. By "face", I am referring to the side of the brick that will be seen from inside the oven.

[mfiore]

Re: Hansen Horno

In regard to terminology - I don't have a clue either -
Les...

That makes me feel better!!

[dbhansen]

Re: Hansen Horno

Could you clarify what this cut (4-7) does, then? I understand you could tip up the brick with a wedge and fill in the gap with mortar. If you want to avoid using so much mortar, aren't builders cutting a "bevel" on the top or bottom of the brick to decrease this gap? If so, it seems this cut would go through the face of the brick. By "face", I am referring to the side of the brick that will be seen from inside the oven.

Exactly Mike, the blade goes through the side of the brick that faces into the oven in the process of cutting off a wedge-shaped slab from the bottom of the brick. Basically, you eliminate the big wedge of mortar by cutting off a big wedge of brick. The "back" of the brick (which forms the outside surface of the dome) remains almost full-sized, but the inside face (facing into the oven) loses almost a third of its size when you cut a 10-degree slope. That's why I'm thinking of cutting off a smaller wedge for the next course (so maybe half the bottom face is flush with the course below it, instead of the whole thing), so I don't lose so much brick in the process. Then I'll fill the remaining wedge with mortar. I think all the cutting is worthwhile for someone like Les or Ken who took the time to make it perfect, but I'm not being careful enough with my cuts to make them all truly worthwhile.

So you are also correct in saying that the mockup of the dome bricks (in the picture) does not match what I'm doing on my dome. But I did use that mockup to create a plywood form used to maintain those angles and the proper shape as I build the dome. But this is where I think I made a mistake of sorts, because I didn't realize (duh!) that the dome height is the same as the floor radius, so the dome could/should have the same arc as the floor: a perfect half-circle. I just eyed it and got close. Of course, the full soldiers make a perfect semi-circle impossible.

If anyone wants to read a great discussion about cutting brick angles (with diagrams), read this thread, especially JC's comments:
Link

[Les]

Re: Hansen Horno

aren't builders cutting a "bevel" on the top or bottom of the brick to decrease this gap?

I didn't - if you are building a 42 inch oven (my case) there should be around .400 inch gap in the back - not bad. I definitely considered what you are talking about, but after laying it out and considering the cuts - I went the shim / mortar route for the back. If you have none of it in the interior - whats the harm?
I agree that a true mortar-less oven would be cool! And it is achievable - it's also a butt load of work

Les...

[dbhansen]

Re: Hansen Horno

4th course done, except the keystone.

[mfiore]

Re: Hansen Horno

Looks very nice!! Clean, symmetric lines. I'm enjoying the build!

[Ken524]

Re: Hansen Horno

Awesome work. Looks great!