Is it a problem to have the inner arch walls get bigger at the top than at the bottom so the top will come out top meet the dome shape?
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I actually made an error with the drawing. The scribe line will be from the top of the arch form to where your pencil mark is. This is your current IT diameter. So the yellow line will not be exactly the same inside diameter of the dome from the IT but will be a smoother transition than a squared off edge. It is only for a couple inches along the dome interior. Hope this make sense. The most important part is the slope of rod of the IT on the brick (red line). This is the mating point between the dome and arch so the two need to be the same.Russell
Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]
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If you come of the inside edge of the arch form, whether it be at the bottom or TDC the arch width will not change. The distance between brick protruding out front of the arch form and the dome will be largest to TDC and smallest at the floor. I corrected the pic. The green line is correct, But like I said the red line is the most critical.Russell
Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]
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Here's a pic of tapered arch, notice angle is not a 90.Russell
Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]
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Here is a picture I took during my build. I placed my top (TDC) arch brick in position on the arch form, then used my IT to hold a dome brick next to it to get an idea of what angle I needed to cut for the upper and lower (inside oven) surfaces. The top edge of the dome brick is level with the top of the arch brick. I cut the top angle a little less steep than the line I drew to keep the mortar thickness uniform around the dome (does that make sense?). The lower diagonal line was made by placing a pencil along the lower edge of the dome brick and rotating the IT up and down. Holding a brick to the side of the TDC brick gave me a much better idea of what was going on than placing the IT on top of the TDC brick like in the picture you guys are using above. Also, ignore the diagonal line to the far right, it was drawn in errorMy build thread
https://community.fornobravo.com/for...h-corner-build
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Mike,
FYI, JR's pivot point on his IT was at floor level so his moons lined up better. This is one of the most difficult concepts and area of the build other than the vent transition. Hang in there.
https://community.fornobravo.com/for...er-build/page2Russell
Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]
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Built a new table to incorporate the bevel cuts for my 3rd chain. I used a small cabinet door setup with a piano hinge in a single plane, mounted the 5 degree wood angle, cut the angle stop for the blade, and scored the cabinet door so the blade could cut through the whole brick. Looked pretty nice. Took a while to figure out if I could go back and give some already cut bricks the bevel, then started cutting some more bricks. I quickly found that my 2.8 degree angle must have been a little more than 2.8 degrees, as instead of inverted V's I have slight regular V's. My setup isn't too easy to change so am trying to talk myself into the regular v's (they really aren't that bad), and figure I can probably use that same setting for the next chain. After studying my setup a little more, I found that my cabinet door is already cupping where I scored the door, as I didn't take the time to seal the scored line. So I think that is messing with my bevel. It seems much harder on this chain to keep the brick joints tight and hard to keep the joints consistent? Not sure how to solve this problem, but I may have to re-think my jig. I only have a 10" saw, so a thicker 2x6 jig isn't possible. Looks like some people have two sided tables, but then you have the probability of both sides not being exactly the same. Any easy solutions out there?
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Attached is what I came up with for the table set up on the saw. Seemed to work ok for the 3rd and 4th chains. It is an aluminum plate mounted to the cabinet door piece with a piano hinge. Third chain mortared and 4th chain cut and dry set. Still trying to get my head around how the dome ties into the arch, but I think the higher I go up the light will go off and I can figure it out. Man that home brew mortar plays hell with your hands, even with gloves on I am getting burns from the lime, I think. Anyone have any tips on how to protect your hands?
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Mike,
Coming along. A tip keep the arch bricks ahead of the dome courses. Much easier to make tie-in adjustments. Dip you hands in vinegar to counter the lime. I also used rubber gloves.Russell
Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]
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Apply some petroleum jelly or mineral oil (baby oil) before starting to work with the mortar each day. If you have applied hand or any other type of lotion, wash and dry your hands completely before applying the petroleum products. If you wash your hands for a break or lunch, reapply before returning to work. The petroleum products will seal the pores of your skin and are a little extra barrier. It takes some time to build up the hide on your hands for brick work. Keep using the gloves also .Joe Watson " A year from now, you will wish that you had started today" My Build Album / My Build
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I wore cheap nitrile coated cotton gloves to handle abrasion with latex gloves underneath to keep the nasty stuff off my hands. never got a blister or a soreMy build thread
https://community.fornobravo.com/for...h-corner-build
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Ok, so I got some thin Nitrile gloves to put under the rubber coated cotton gloves, and problem solved with the burns. Was able to get the 4th and 5th chains completed. With a lot of help, it looks like I figured out how the dome ties into the entry arch. Still is a little messy in that area and not as clean as I would have liked it, but like everyone says, you can't see that area. One question I had was I originally planned on having a TDC brick on my entry arch, now with a couple of my mortar joints growing on me, do I need a TDC brick or can I have a mortar joint in the middle?
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Can you spread the mortar creep by slightly tapering the remaining arch bricks? What you don't want is a large mortar gap in the inside of the arch. BTW, coming along nicely.Russell
Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]
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