UK Newbie joining the forum planning on building a 32" Pompeii oven

[Rocketroy]

Hi Agrasyuk, The damp coarse is a plastic membrane the width of the bricks and it normally goes on top of the 1st row of bricks. It prevents the rising damp coming up from the ground and making the bricks go green with algi . it is used and n the UK on all buildings, and as I was planning on a white cement render I didn't want it to keep going green with damp.
Regards Roy

[Rocketroy]

I had a very productive day today and managed to build my upstanding. I will leave everything to dry for a week before I start the timber work to build my slab.
i am really pleased with my chop saw it cuts through the bricks like a hot knife to butter, I soaked the bricks first before slowly cutting through the bricks, I will now start cutting bricks in my spare time to make a start.

[Rocketroy]

Last night I started making the frame for my concrete slab. I am undecided whether to curve the front or keep it square. I still need to frame the outside edge. I am hoping to pour concrete in a weeks time.
Regards Roy

[fox]

I would!
Make your oven design to suit you, if you are thinking about a curved front then I reckon that is what you really want ;0

[Gulf]

I'm guessing that you are referring to a convex curve since that is what most folks do. I did a concave curve on the front so I could stand closer to the oven and have wide wings on either side for staging stuff. My entry is very deep. That probably won't be a concern with your oven.

[Rocketroy]

Thanks for your comments, I think I will go with a convex curve and maybe add a circle template to insert something in.
I have just spent an hour or so following your build Gulf, that is amazing what an inspiration.
I really liked your pull out drawer idea. I can see that you really thought through everything. I also never realized that you can cook in the vent arch area, you have an amazing oven and i'm sure you could house a family in there
Regards

Roy

[Rocketroy]

Another productive day today, I have cut my soldier course which is a half brick high. This should bring me level to the top of the floor once the insulation is laid under the floor. I am now working on my vent arch.
On Wednesday I will hopefully pour the counter top.
Regards Roy

[wolvis]

Looking good Roy, I see you have crafted an indispensable tool as well. I'm still struggling to understand how to know much to taper the cuts on the bricks as the build gets higher, but I guess it will be easier when I actually have some firebricks to experiment with. Some of the builders in the community seem to have cracked some very complicated geometry. Hope the counter top pour went well.

[UtahBeehiver]

Here is a link to a spreadsheet that Deejayoh developed to assist with tapers and bevels. I think you are meaning bevels not tapers (angle)
https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ulator?t=18131

You only really need to do a bevel near the front or interior of the dome to eliminate the inverted "v" (see photo) and to maintain small mortar joints. You may need smaller width bricks near the upper courses of the dome.

[Rocketroy]

Hi Wolvis,
I will be pouring the slab next Wednesday, I'm looking forward to it I keep dreaming pizzas
I have just put a slight taper in the ends of the brick i make 3 cuts in each brick and I get 2 identical bricks
....like this [/ \ /] I have not worried about putting a taper on the vertical bit as I will build it up with mortar on the outside of the oven. I have seen some good builds where people have just used square bricks so I don't think it has to be done this way. as I'm only cutting a thin wedge off each end of the brick the saw i recommended cuts through like butter it has been a great purchase.

regards

Roy

[agrasyuk]

Roy,
dreaming pizzas will get more and more painful as you get closer to your goal. yesterday i was reading the recepies section here, almost choking on saliva (bad, bad idea to read that when getting hungry )
keep on it

You only really need to do a bevel near the front or interior of the dome to eliminate the inverted "v" (see photo) and to maintain small mortar joints. You may need smaller width bricks near the upper courses of the dome.

on the picture attached it looks like the builder beveled correctly, but mistakenly installed the 3 middle bricks in row 3 upside down, which makes the "V" even more pronounced...

[Toomulla]

Here is a link to a spreadsheet that Deejayoh developed to assist with tapers and bevels. I think you are meaning bevels not tapers (angle)
https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ulator?t=18131

You only really need to do a bevel near the front or interior of the dome to eliminate the inverted "v" (see photo) and to maintain small mortar joints. You may need smaller width bricks near the upper courses of the dome.

as the bevel angle on an arch is constant so it is on a dome so the horizontal bevel is constant. The vertical bevel angle changes on each course as the bricks tilt and the circle reduces. I purchased tapered bricks to suit the dome diameter/ height then cut the various vertical bevels to achieve 2 mm joints both ways probably a bit anal

[Rocketroy]

Today I managed to get my upstand poured! The weather last night was heavy rain all night, but this morning remained cloudy with no rain It has been an ideal day for the job.
i fitted the chipboard base and then cut a 9mm MDF former which formed the curve, I then packed the bits that were not being filled with sand. I then painted the forms with cooking oil and then I drilled and plugged the reinforcing bars directly on top of the blocks.
I am very please with the result so far, but I'll need to now wait and see how the job turned out. I used an electric sander under the floor to vibrate out all the air bubbles.

How long do you think I should leave it before I remove the forms?

Regards Roy

[Rocketroy]

Reinforcing bars screwed down with corners ready

[Rocketroy]

My poured upstand, now the waiting for the next phase