Outdoor Kitchen/Bar and Pompeii WFO Build in Southern California

[n8huntsman]

Roofs done! Time to start the deck.

With the exposed fastener metal roof complete, it’s time to start the deck.
This is a transit jig that I borrowed. Probably a little overkill for a deck. But it is dead accurate.

I’m also using a laser back-up as a sanity check.

Hard to see in the pic, but between the fat crosshairs, there is an even finer line. There is a micrometer dial on the transit that moves the crosshairs in .001″ increments. You can see the laser back-up through the scope.

Beams are up and the joists are going in. Hopefully things will start to move a little faster from here on out.

[n8huntsman]

Re: Outdoor Kitchen/Bar and Pompeii WFO Build in Southern California

I finished the deck just before Halloween but just got around to posting. I'll probably start on the WFO next either in Dec. or Jan.

[n8huntsman]

Re: Outdoor Kitchen/Bar and Pompeii WFO Build in Southern California

[valentin]

Re: Outdoor Kitchen/Bar and Pompeii WFO Build in Southern California

Great! What material did you use for floors?

[n8huntsman]

Re: Outdoor Kitchen/Bar and Pompeii WFO Build in Southern California

The deck is Veranda Armorguard in Brazilian Walnut, composite material from Home Depot. Veranda is actually owned by Fiberon and seems to be pretty nice stuff. No complaints so far. I used the hidden deck fasteners for everything except the picture frame border. For that I used fastenmaster trapease 3 screws. They have a dual thread design that works really good. The fist thread holds the screw down and the second one, towards the head, counterbores the wood and leaves the screw slightly recessed. They say you don't need to predrill but I found that it looked cleaner when I did.

[valentin]

Re: Outdoor Kitchen/Bar and Pompeii WFO Build in Southern California

The deck is Veranda Armorguard in Brazilian Walnut, composite material from Home Depot.

Yes, this is a very expensive material. 40 USD per 1 sq. m? Floors made of larch 50 mm thick. Boards are painted on all four sides with oil. I have managed in the ~ 15 USD per square meter. The boards are planed and polished himself.

[n8huntsman]

Finally starting the WFO (wood fired oven)

I'm going to start filling the cores today. I still need to figure out how to span the opening while supporting the concrete hearth.

[n8huntsman]

Re: Outdoor Kitchen/Bar and Pompeii WFO Build in Southern California

I started a thread just for the oven. New thread located here: http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/n...tml#post182212

I'll come back to this thread once the oven is done and I start to work on the kitchen again.

[n8huntsman]

Forms done! Ready for concrete hearth.

Oops. accidental post. okay to delete.

[n8huntsman]

Re: Outdoor Kitchen/Bar and Pompeii WFO Build in Southern California

Just about have the oven wrapped up. Only stucco and a little stonework left on the front. Here's a shot of the bar as it stands now.

[n8huntsman]

Re: Outdoor Kitchen/Bar and Pompeii WFO Build in Southern California

It's time to start on the bar tops. I've decided on pre-cast GFRC (glass fiber reinforced concrete) for the countertops. The bar is U-shaped. The back straight piece against the fence, to the right of the oven, will have a standard BBQ Island style cabinet base, with a couple doors and a BBQ. The frame will be made of steel studs and track. The U shape and the other leg of the U will sit on a 6" wall made of 1.25" square tube steel, .125" wall thickness. This will facilitate a 12" overhang on the bar stool side and another 12" cantilever on the inside to accommodate my kegerator, ice bin, speed rail, ice machine, sink, etc. This will look like a typical commercial bar. The back section will be faced with wood. The T shaped, cantilevered section, will have corrugated metal with picture frame borders on the side that is visible. The other side that is open will be full of bar stuff and wont be seen.

[n8huntsman]

Re: Outdoor Kitchen/Bar and Pompeii WFO Build in Southern California

Couple questions for anyone who has worked with GFRC, steel studs, or countertops in general:
Couple questions about the steel studs for the bar. I've never used them before.
1.) I gather it's arguably better to use rivets so that the hardi-backer sits flush. I've also read that stainless is best. Any issue with galvanic corrosion? If not, I'll go with these 1/8" stainless rivets and a #30 drill bit per Dr. Dave's recommendations.

2.) Since my deck is already trex(ish) I assume I can screw my steel track directly to the deck, no need to make trex standoff feet to prevent corrosion from moisture, correct? Should I put hardie-backer on the bottom? It's covered with a roof and I live in California so moisture issues are minimal. It will probably just be wood storage for my wood fired oven.

3.) Ive read that the 2.5" studs are better than the 3-5/8" studs but my home depot only has the 3-5/8. Should I look around at other distributors or is it not really a big deal?

4.) I've seen a couple people use L-brackets in the corner where the stud meets the track. Is this necessary or totally pointless and overkill?

5.) For the 2" GFRC that will be on top, is 1/4" hardie-backer enough. Or should I beef that up? I assume 1/4" on the sides is more than enough?

6.) What is the preferred stud spacing? I'd like the front to be mostly accessible with doors to make best use of the storage. The back side I can follow any stud spacing recommended.

7.) Regarding the other side of the bar, the T shaped side, with the double 12" cantilever; does this frame made of 1.25" square x .125" wall tube steel look sufficient enough for the 2" gfrc?

[deejayoh]

Re: Outdoor Kitchen/Bar and Pompeii WFO Build in Southern California

Couple questions for anyone who has worked with GFRC, steel studs, or countertops in general:
Couple questions about the steel studs for the bar. I've never used them before.
1.) I gather it's arguably better to use rivets so that the hardi-backer sits flush. I've also read that stainless is best. Any issue with galvanic corrosion? If not, I'll go with these 1/8" stainless rivets and a #30 drill bit per Dr. Dave's recommendations.

I used self-tapping screws. No issues. Same thing you use them on the hardiboard

2.) Since my deck is already trex(ish) I assume I can screw my steel track directly to the deck, no need to make trex standoff feet to prevent corrosion from moisture, correct? Should I put hardie-backer on the bottom? It's covered with a roof and I live in California so moisture issues are minimal. It will probably just be wood storage for my wood fired oven.

I used a piece of trex between my cabinets and the concrete pavers on my deck. Been great. Hardi would probably break down

3.) Ive read that the 2.5" studs are better than the 3-5/8" studs but my home depot only has the 3-5/8. Should I look around at other distributors or is it not really a big deal?

get the heavy stuff. HD size metal studs are crap

4.) I've seen a couple people use L-brackets in the corner where the stud meets the track. Is this necessary or totally pointless and overkill?

pointless and overkill

5.) For the 2" GFRC that will be on top, is 1/4" hardie-backer enough. Or should I beef that up? I assume 1/4" on the sides is more than enough?

1/4 was good for me

6.) What is the preferred stud spacing? I'd like the front to be mostly accessible with doors to make best use of the storage. The back side I can follow any stud spacing recommended.

I did 16". If nothing else, you know what to expect