Re: dmun's 36" geodesic oven part II
I decided that the sill plate at the top of the block wall shouldn't be cut, for reasons of the structural stability of the studio.
This means that that it goes through the chimney, and needs two inches of airspace and four inches of masonry between it and the flues. A concrete slug will be formed and poured around the space around the 2x8.
Another construction detail: since the fireplace chimney goes up at an eight degree angle it will get unstable after a while (remember, the flue tiles are supposed to be free-standing). Here is a block of insblock19 used as a slip plane for the flue to lean on. I used three of these in the length of the run. Here, the lower flue tile is mortared, and ready for the placement of the next tile. See that shiny stuff at the bottom of the flue? I put a layer of bubble wrap over the damper, so falling mortar wouldn't glue my damper shut.
Onward,
and upward. Ready for the chimney block run, you can see one at my feet.
I decided that the sill plate at the top of the block wall shouldn't be cut, for reasons of the structural stability of the studio.
This means that that it goes through the chimney, and needs two inches of airspace and four inches of masonry between it and the flues. A concrete slug will be formed and poured around the space around the 2x8.
Another construction detail: since the fireplace chimney goes up at an eight degree angle it will get unstable after a while (remember, the flue tiles are supposed to be free-standing). Here is a block of insblock19 used as a slip plane for the flue to lean on. I used three of these in the length of the run. Here, the lower flue tile is mortared, and ready for the placement of the next tile. See that shiny stuff at the bottom of the flue? I put a layer of bubble wrap over the damper, so falling mortar wouldn't glue my damper shut.
Onward,
and upward. Ready for the chimney block run, you can see one at my feet.
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